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Thanks man and will do.simp5782,
I put the 7155 behind a Detroit Series 60 430/470 hp, 1650 torque a year ago now. I have somewhere around 60,000 miles on it with no problems other than last winter when the temp dropped below 20 degrees, I believe the rear clutch would slip a little near peak torque in top gear. I increased the air pressure to the rear clutch which seemed to help. The transmission is rated at 1350. Think I will heat the oil with coolant to avoid the problem next winter.
I have posted pictures of the install in a album under my profile here on SS. A couple of them have measurements of the drive ring fitted to the standard flywheel (simply removed the clutch) and measurements of the adapter on the tranny. The flywheel and housing will need to be clean and all openings sealed as you will now have oil in the housing with this tranny.
The Western Star has a AD-9 air dryer on it - a very good dryer. I did not install an oiler or a filter system nor a valve body heater and had zero problems with that part of the tranny. However, this truck is operated weekly and does not sit.
Got to get back to work, If I can be of any assistance, just ask and I will try and help you out.
I regularly gross 80,000 lbs. I still have the oil cooler lines shut off from the winter. The trans temp runs around 150 F and will get to 200 F when maneuvering or stop and go traffic. The 7155 Operation manual says 270 F is considered high and do not run there frequently or consistently. I'm pretty sure my temp is accurate, I just transferred the factory sender from the Roadranger to the 7155. I'm currently not running the mountains, but I wouldn't expect the the temp to change much unless the clutches were slipping. In fact, the 7155 literature says a cooler is not necessary but provisions have been made to connect one.Thanks man and will do.
I thought about adding shut off valves on my heat exchanger and running the trans oil thru that in the winter time to keep it warm. My air to air cooler for the trans is about 5x bigger than what comes on the truck. That thing is surprisingly small for the gvw of a 920. I am going to run the 939 series hoses and spin on filter since the 915s dont have one. So that helps to keep the trans temp gauge set too.
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Schoolbus' can fly like the magic one.Wanna hear something crazy? If it was a 8.3 powered truck, they can sustain 2800rpm easily. (They could go higher though) That works out to 100mph. Course I'm doubtful there's enough power on tap to make that happen.
Your transmission has a valve body heater on it. There is a guy in France that has a couple brand new surplus heater kits for sale, but I'm guessing you won't need the heater with a good air dryer. Pretty sure that is what the diamond shape sensor is for.
The one between the umbilical line and supply line is for the reverse lights.
The one at the back by the regulator is a switch to cut the jakes off while the transmission is shifting. Don't think your going to need that one either.
The neutral safety is in the shifting console.
As far as the rear mount, get everything mounted and in place and see what will work then. In my case, it's not holding a whole lot but stabilizing it. I put some nice heavy Freightliner mounts on the flywheel housing and ran a bead of Permatex Ultra Black between the housing and trany with the o-ring. The first transmission tore up after 100 mi because it wasn't getting oil to the rear output. Anyway, I had a **** of a time getting it pulled back off. I jacked it up, let it down and all that weight wouldn't break the seal! ended up pulling it off with a chain and ratchet binder. As I said before, the flywheel will be running in the oil, that area does stay dry though.
My splined adapter came with the grade 8 bolts and hardened washers.
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