Source of M1009 starters in Texas?

[CP92]

Guys,

My starter started making a grinding sound when starting. The truck would fire right up instantly, but the starter made the screeching/grinding sound for the instant it takes to start the engine. I removed the starter and found a few things that concern me.

First, the mounting bracket was installed but the bolt holding it onto the block was not very tight, just pretty snug.

Second, there was one shim on the starter when the body says it's "no shim".

Third, one of the mounting bolts seemed to have semi-stripped threads, as did the threaded hole.




Fourth, there are marks on the nose of the starter that look like crack, but may be casting marks?



Here are some pics of the flywheel for good measure:




I'm not really sure what to think or where to go from here. Does anyone know of businesses here in Central Texas I can use if I need to replace the starter or have it rebuilt? I'm also wondering where to get new starter bolts and if the questionable hole needs some kind of attention.

Any advice y'all could give me would be greatly appreciated.

 

[deank]

The bolts are easy on amazon


I do not know any shops in Central TX. I know you can get 24 volt gear reduction starters on amazon. I imagine that direct drive starters are available as well. Hillbilly wizard should be a good source as well.

found this online

Starter Electric 24 Volt Chevrolet CUCV 6.2 Diesel Engine

Starter Electric 24 Volt Chevrolet CUCV 6.2 Diesel Engine

www.easternsurplus.net

 

[CP92]

The bolts are easy on amazon
View attachment 956077

I do not know any shops in Central TX. I know you can get 24 volt gear reduction starters on amazon. I imagine that direct drive starters are available as well. Hillbilly wizard should be a good source as well.

found this online

Starter Electric 24 Volt Chevrolet CUCV 6.2 Diesel Engine

Starter Electric 24 Volt Chevrolet CUCV 6.2 Diesel Engine

www.easternsurplus.net

Thank you very much. I had a hell of a time trying to locate bolts, but I think I got some ordered from these guys:

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/gm-starter-bolt-15544950?c=bD0xJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM%3D

They'll probably email me in a day or two to tell me they are out of stock and cancelling the order.

I'll get in touch with Hillbilly Wizard Monday and see what he says.

Thanks again.

 

[Barrman]

If you end up with a reduction drive starter. You will need the support bracket that goes with the reduction starter. They are not the same.

The HMMWV starters are also 24 volts and bolt to the same engine.

Here is a video about the different starters, starter bolts and support brackets:

 

[CP92]

If you end up with a reduction drive starter. You will need the support bracket that goes with the reduction starter. They are not the same.

The HMMWV starters are also 24 volts and bolt to the same engine.

Here is a video about the different starters, starter bolts and support brackets:

Thanks for the video. I guess I'll look into MT28 availability too. Good info!

 

[sbgarage]

Make sure your flexplate bolts are torqued to spec. When I got my m1009 they were loose and the jamoke that owned it tried welding it to the TC lol

 

[CP92]

I've been studying things a little and have questions.

I don't know what the mounting holes are supposed to look like, but it appears to me that mine have both been repaired with threadserts or something similar with the threadserts protruding out past the block's mounting surface (the far hole). The protrusion from the near hole came off on the bolt that was somewhat stripped...and the threads in the hole aren't in very good shape either (the near hole). Does this look normal to you or do you think I'm on to something?


The mounting surface on the starter is flat and has no recesses to work around the threadsert protrusions.



I think the shim was added to fill in the gap left with the starter resting on the threadserts instead of the block mounting surface. One of the holes in the shim has been enlarged to fit around the threadsert, but the other hasn't. I'm not sure what to make of that. The piece of threadsert that came off with the damaged bolt is shown beside the shim.


My plan is to use an Irwin M10 x 1.5 tap to chase the threads in the hole and hopefully restore them to take the 33 pound feet of torque. I'm wondering if I should grind off the protruding threadsert flush with the block and leave the shim out or leave the protrusion there and use the shim. What do you fellas think?

 

[sbgarage]

Def needs to be flat against block. Shim/helicoil not being flat might be why that edge of your flexplate teeth look chewed up