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Spare parts for the CUCV?

fal_shooter

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Post Falls, ID
I know that some of the parts are drying up for the CUCVs. I guess the GP module is the big one and maybe the CDR. I was wondering if anyone has compiled a list of either alternate part numbers or even a list of special parts that we should get to keep these things on the road. I am not a mechanic but I want to get another 30 years out of my CUCV (**** I'd be happy if I last another 30 years).

Any of you wiser hands out there have a list of parts we should be on the lookout for? Is the CDR a part that needs to be replaced? Is it that hard to find a replacement. I just saw one on eBay go for $120. Is that hype? Can we use a different military one or a civilian one? Do we even need to worry about it?

Like I said I'm not a mechanic. I am not worried about air cleaners or oil filters and the like. Those should be around for a long time. The list I am looking for is unique CUCV parts that could stop the truck from running and you can't get a replacement from the auto parts store.
 

ida34

Well-known member
4,118
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Location
Dexter, MI
I am pretty sure the CDR valve is the same as a civy 6.2 diesel. For the rest there is a parts cross reference available. As for the military unique stuff that would stop it, all have to do with the glow plug and starting systems. The starter is 24 volt and there is an extra relay under the dash to change the 12 volt impulse from the ignition switch to 24 volts for the starter. The glow plug system uses some unique stuff and the most unobtainable would be the controller. The resistor is military only but rarely fails. The glow plug relay can be replaced with a civy equivalent. The glow plugs are 13 G AC Delco or Welman 070 and can be replaced with the AC Delco 60G but the terminals must be modified. The isolated ground alternators can be a pain to find or have rebuilt as most people do not know what they are. Only the passenger's side alt needs to be isolated to the driver's side can use an off the shelf GM replacement. Search to find the exact number but I think it is a 100 amp used in Cadillacs.

Check this link
 

Mudstone

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Norman OK
wait the passenger side needs to be grounded? my driver side alt has a wire from alt to a bolt on the crossover pipe? is this wrong?
 

ida34

Well-known member
4,118
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Location
Dexter, MI
More on the alternators. Almost all alternators have a ground that is connected to the case. The case grounds the unit. In the isolated ground units on the cucv the ground does not go to the case. It only goes to the terminal on the back. In effect the ground is isolated from the case. The driver's side has the ground going to the cross over since it does not ground to the case. If you get a cady alt as replacement it will just ground though the case. The ground for the passenger's side alternator is the positive side of the 12 volt half of the system. The alternator on the passenger side has the ground terminal connecting to the positive side of the 12 volt system. If you put a non isolated ground alt on the passenger's side you will get sparks as the it will create a short to ground inside the alternator. Many have found this out too late. Most military vehicles have one alternator charging two batteries. The batteries must be balanced with the same charge. If one starts to go bad the system only sees a lowering of the over all volts. It will charge both the good and the bad battery at the same rate until the over all voltage is right. This over charges the good battery and soon you have two bad batteries. This is why it is a bad idea to tap one battery for 12 volt on a deuce. It may cause a battery imbalance. The cucv only uses 24 volts for military radios, slave cable operations, and for starting. All of the lights and other accessories are 12 volt. If they used a 24 volt alt then they would get the imbalance since the 12 volt side uses much more power more often. In the ambulance they had to go with a 24 volt due to air conditioning so they had to put in a device to balance the batteries. In all the other cucv's they put in two alts. The driver's side charges the front battery and this is the side that gets the most used. The passenger's side alt charges the rear battery and this is only used during starting most of the time. That means the rear battery system only has to charge enough to replenish the power used to start the thing then it just sits there with nothing to do. The front battery works all the time. You do not have to worry about an imbalance because each alt senses the charge level of it own respective battery.

Well this turned out longer then I had expected.
 

Screamer27

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Des Moines / Iowa
I've had good luck with the alternator aspect. After searching and searching, Wilson Alternator's makes a direct replacement. I'm running 2 of them right now, with a 3rd on the shelf as a back up, if one where to let me sit. Orielly auto parts, and Napa both carry them, but its not a stocking item, its something they normally have to order, hence the reason I keep one on hand. But they do make them ;)
 

croftonaviation

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crofton ky
I've had good luck with the alternator aspect. After searching and searching, Wilson Alternator's makes a direct replacement. I'm running 2 of them right now, with a 3rd on the shelf as a back up, if one where to let me sit. Orielly auto parts, and Napa both carry them, but its not a stocking item, its something they normally have to order, hence the reason I keep one on hand. But they do make them ;)
would you mind sharing a part number?

thanks
 

AJMBLAZER

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Paducah, KY
The CDR's are a scarce bird for the 6.2L's anymore. Even for the civy trucks and no, they aren't the same. If you can locate one the CDR for a civilian K20 or K30 truck with the J-code engine is similar enough to be made to work. I actually have one on Big Ugly right now and a CUCV CDR on my civy Blazer.

I don't know if CDR's for the vans of the era will work or if they're available anywhere. I doubt they are any more common than the truck ones.
Last I knew SOME GM dealerships could still get the CDR's but they wanted $70 or so for them and it's all just NOS stuff sitting on a dusty shelf somewhere.

The swap I've heard is guys putting a passenger side 6.5L valve cover on and using 6.5L CDR's. Supposed to work well. Hopefully the 6.5L CDR's stay available longer than ours did.
 

booger-hooker

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Central Iowegia
Screamer27 I see that you're from my neck of the woods as I'm just East of Des Moines. I have a M1010 that was converted to 12V by its previous owner and other than replacing the alternator and glow plugs once I haven't had any issues or needed any other parts for the most part. I'm currently in Iraq but would like to get together with others with MV's when I get back, 2 of the members in our FFL have 12 M35's but nobody else has a CUCV.
 

Screamer27

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Location
Des Moines / Iowa
We have a really nice m1009, and looking for a 1028 or 1031 I have 3 k5's only one is a CUCV I use them as plow trucks, and such, but our M1009 is in great shape. Right now I'm battleing a glow plug issue, the relay keeps cycling, and it only has 12v to the plugs for about 1 to 2 seconds, then it shuts off.
 
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