Split Rims

[Dieselsmoke]

Elwenil, ain't that the truth!!

 

[Jones]

The Budd rims on the baby HEMTT are three piece and pretty well thought out (see the rim drwg in the tech articles section); there's even a tab on the safety ring that keeps them from being installed backwards. I hesitate to use the term "idiot-proof" because the world keeps designing better idiots.

 

[wallew]

G744 & Elwenil,
IF (and only if) the moron comment was directed at me, I am hurt.

Tools, yuppir. I will be adding some to my deuce setup here shortly. My truck already has an NPT quick disconnect. And I will be adding TWO more air tanks just like the ones there now and I will be mounting them in the same place as the current tanks. I got them from the seller for free. That should give me enough air to operate the tools below.

First will be a 20 ton air/hydrualic bottle jack. PLUS two ten ton jack stands once the tire is up off the ground.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=41487

Second is a 1" impact wrench to remove the lug nuts.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=92622

Third, I will be carrying two spares at all times, which means it will take THREE flats to sideline my truck BEFORE I have to repair them. If they can be plugged, I have a complete setup for that already.

Finally, I am in the process of designing a small crane driven by a small electric winch to raise and lower the spares from their spot at the front of my bed. I'm just lazy.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=92860

So, that means I will have air assist in raising the tire off the ground. Removing the lugs and replacing them. And electrical assist in pulling the spare out of the bed and putting the flat back in place. Like I said, I'M LAZY. Not stupid.

 

[mangus580]

No worry wallew.... IF the comment was directed at you or anyone else here, the 'commentee' would have to speak to me

 

[Elwenil]

Nahhh, not directed at anyone in particular. We sometimes just get comfortable with the guys on forums that we talk to and know their capability and forget that we are also putting this info up for anyone who drops by can read it and mistake it's meaning. Two years from now an "average guy" with little tech experience with this sort of thing could read it, get confused and end up in serious trouble.

 

[G744]

I am fully aware of the milspec two-piece wheels popular today...I run them on my 5-tons. The M35E3 uses a similar but slightly narrower wheel for singles, but the lack of supply has rendered them almost unobtainable.

In my post I am referring to the current thread following the use of either steel or alloy 22.5 one-piece commercial wheels as found on motorhomes and such. Plugging a flat from a nail or such is easy on a tubeless, but a sidewall rip or puncture requires a breakdown at best to use an internal boot. Without a tire machine, they are really tough to get apart and fix. In my opinion, it is much easier and more reliable to use the old stock wheel, and a good 1100 or 1200 radial tire & tube for ease of repair.

That is, unless you spend all your time on the highway, where a cellphone is probably the tool of choice.


dg not driving Winnebagos

 

[Jones]

To Wallew & everyone else for that matter.
Don't take anything I say personally, or for that matter - seriously. And if I had a particular idiot in mind, it would most likely be me; heck, just remember, I get to see me in action on a fairly regular basis.
No, I'm talking about the civilians (non OD lovers) out there who; 1. think they're the only car on the road for miles, and 2. probably shouldn't even be allowed to start a car, let alone drive one.
Us, on the other hand; I figure we're the cream of the crop when you stop to consider what we're capable of in the restoration and up keep of the rigs we own and operate. Can't think of anyone else I'd rather convoy with.

 

[wallew]

In my post I am referring to the current thread following the use of either steel or alloy 22.5 one-piece commercial wheels as found on motorhomes and such. Plugging a flat from a nail or such is easy on a tubeless, but a sidewall rip or puncture requires a breakdown at best to use an internal boot.

That is, unless you spend all your time on the highway, where a cellphone is probably the tool of choice.

G744,
I DO spend a lot of time on the highway. Not much of an off roader any more. But I JUST COULDN'T buy an RV. I'm just too much of an 'oddball' to do that. Plus, you NEVER KNOW when owning the deuce will come in handy.

For example, I couldn't have helped a friend move this last weekend in an RV. But in the deuce, well, you know. Plus I can't fill an RV full of dirt and bring it back to my garden. Well, I COULD, but the wife would kill me. Besides, there are a LOT MORE replacement parts for these trucks than a twenty/thirty year old RV. I have a soft spot for the old GMC motorhomes that had front wheel drive using the 'Toronado' setup.

I kind of look at my deuce more like a really big pick up truck that is capable of severe off road in all sorts of conditions. Plus I CAN turn the rear into a 'camper' of sorts with the curtains in place along with the top. So it's a multi function vehicle.

Besides, I'm all about the 'different and unusual'.

And you are absolutely correct about ripping a sidewall and getting it fixed in the middle of nowhere. Not a very easy task. But I will still have twelve standard deuce wheels and tires once I get the super singles mounted. So I can ALWAYS go backwards if I so choose. Probably won't but you never know.

I also have two full sets (5) of wheels and tires for my 91 GMC Suburban. The tires that are normally on the ground are the 'mud/snow' type of road tires. I have a larger set of 'winter tires' but we haven't had enough winter here in Denver for more than five years. So they sit in my basement, waiting for the day that we have a 'bad winter'. The hardest part about having two sets of tires is having a place to store them properly and then rotating them in storage at least once or twice a year so they don't get hard spots.

Jones, I NEVER take things said to me over the internet personally. But it does pain me to think that someone else on this forum doesn't understand where I'm going or why. It's MY problem, not theirs. Improper communications is the downfall of humanity. jim

 

[rdixiemiller]

Some of the new M105 trailers have 22.5 wheels. Personally, I am quite comfortable with split ring wheels. We always got deuce rims for the old Ford dumptrucks I drove in the early eighties. The military wheel used a much heavier lock ring, with deeper engagement onto the wheel center than the factory rims. Never had any problems.
I have broken down and changed my share of them over the years, I just follow some common sense safety procedures. I am putting together my deuce tire kit right now. It includes a spare tube an flap (1100 radial tubes can be scarce), a patch kit, valve core tool, wedge and hammer, and lockring tool/spoon.This all fits in the back of the tool box and takes up little room.
As for the moron quote.....
I work with them every day. Some of them have their wife draw them a map to get to work. We have to go out to the car and turn the map over so they can get back home.
And these people vote!!

 

[rdixiemiller]

Some of the new M105 trailers have 22.5 wheels. Personally, I am quite comfortable with split ring wheels. We always got deuce rims for the old Ford dumptrucks I drove in the early eighties. The military wheel used a much heavier lock ring, with deeper engagement onto the wheel center than the factory rims. Never had any problems.
I have broken down and changed my share of them over the years, I just follow some common sense safety procedures. I am putting together my deuce tire kit right now. It includes a spare tube an flap (1100 radial tubes can be scarce), a patch kit, valve core tool, wedge and hammer, and lockring tool/spoon.This all fits in the back of the tool box and takes up little room.
As for the moron quote.....
I work with them every day. Some of them have their wife draw them a map to get to work. We have to go out to the car and turn the map over so they can get back home.
And these people vote!!

 

[SixBuy]

RDM,
Sounds like a plan to me. Do you prefer the hammer/wedge to a bead breaker hammer? I am collecting tire tools for the deuce and wondered which was easier to use.

 

[rdixiemiller]

I am not coordinated enough for the hammer/wedge combo. I use a separate wedge and a 4 lb hammer.

 

[G744]

Wallew--No comment directed at you. Hell, I don't even know you. Just don't be scared off by those with horror stories about tires, CDL's, lights, or any other "non-compliance" issue. There are many smart & legal ways to go about using old MV's without paranoia or harrasment.

I started driving tacticals over 30 years ago, and have done all my own maintenance, rebuilding, selling, buying, whatever.

Hanging out with a lot of very practical specialists at Yuma Proving Grounds for years gave me a lot of insight and training on tacticals you just can't get anymore.

Working on the side with a successful surplus dealer for years showed me what really works on these trucks, and what was really an affectation done for the military.

Spending a lot of time with others at the state capital lobbying for better licensing issues for our rigs got that done, at least in Arizona.

I don't want to argue with anybody, rather share my experiences. It didn't come easy or cheaply. I sure don't know everything about M-series trucks, but what I do know is true. It may not be the only way, but it has worked well for me for a long time.

In an ideal world, all of us would have a fleet of trucks, and tires/fuel/canvas would come on your selected holidays gratis. As it is, a single rig probably represents a LOT of work on your part, whether to buy it or just to keep it going. No one wants to have to put a lot of time/$$ into something just to have it not return the investment. I don't sell MV's or parts other than a occasional item, so I have no reason to hock some particular guy's things for profit.

No offense meant to anyone, at any time.

And now for something completely different:
I use a fiberglass handled duckbill hammer and a few sharp blows to break beads. Wedge/sledge is too much work for my old back. It does take a bit of practice to put it in the groove every time, tho.

It takes me about an hour to remove, dismount, patch, remount, and drop back on the ground a flat tire on an LTS wheel.

dg

 

[clinto]

OK, a quick question:

I have mounted tons of tubeless tires of all types (big truck, low profile, run flat, etc.) with modern equipment, but never a split rim. I understand it in concept, I want to make sure I have this right in my head...

As the tube inflates, the bead of the tire will seat onto the ring. Once the tire is fully seated, the pressure holds the ring onto the wheel.

Now, at this point, once the tire is fully inflated and the bead is seated, I have to think you are past the danger point and at the point where it is safe to remove it from it's tire cage, chain, etc.?

Thanks in advance,

Clinto

 

[papercu]

tire

Now, at this point, once the tire is fully inflated and the bead is seated, I have to think you are past the danger point and at the point where it is safe to remove it from it's tire cage, chain, etc.?

That true but the only time is is really safe is when there is no air in the tire.It should take no more than 5 psi to seat beads and lock rings.

When fully inflated, you have a force of more than 40,000 pounds against the rim flange. Locking rings or other components may be propelled at speeds up to 130 miles per hour.

Under-inflated tires on multi-piece or split rim wheels may be re-inflated while the wheel is on the vehicle only when pressure has not dropped below
80% of the recommended pressure.

If you drive it any when flat DON"T air it back up till you take off and break it down. Wayne