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Springs vs. Blocks

TCUCV

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Dave, Keep in mind these "blocks" that come from the factory(that I've seen) aren't really blocks. They are welded to the axle, which don't make them blocks anymore. Or they are what offroad design offers, a zero rate, which fastens to the springs so they can't be "spit" out.

Either way of a lift is fine, it all depends on the type of wheeling that one is going to be doing. If you haven't spit out a block yet, you will. Me personally, I don't want to save $100 to later spend it on a tow truck after I loose a rear block.
 

mudguppy

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... If you haven't spit out a block yet, you will. ...
sorry, i know it's not apples/apples; but you're saying that i will spit a block...?


i disagree - design and construction can go a long way. i'll submit that my 'blocked' deuce has less axle wrap than a bobber w/out a rear block.

i copied this design from my 460'ed Bronco that i have rear blocks on. solid. conceptually can be applied to almost any application.
 

Attachments

japickar

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I don't really follow the arguement that a shackle flip adds stress to the frame. A properly designed shackle flip like the ones ORD and DIY4X make spread the load evenly over the mounting surface on the frame and IMO add no more stress than the stock bracket.

I do not really agree that it decreases stability either, though it may be different with a 1009. On my 1008, in addition to the shackle flip I have 6" shackles, removed the swaybar, and am running 6" superlift spings and 37" tires and it drives fine at highway speed. I am not saying it is a sports car by any means, but for what it is it drives fine.

IMO if you are lifting just for looks, light wheeling, or to make a mud truck, the blocks will be fine. However, if you plan on flexing your truck out offroad, IMO the shackle flip is the best option.

Like was said though, just don't stack blocks or take any other shortcuts to lift your truck.
 

ODdave

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Not gonna argue this any more. To each there own. They all have there advantages and disadvantages.

OP, I hope the thread helped you on your decision which ever it may be. Every truck is different. Your choices are what make it unique and best suited to you. Biuld on and enjoy.
 

deuceaid

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sorry, i know it's not apples/apples; but you're saying that i will spit a block...?


i disagree - design and construction can go a long way. i'll submit that my 'blocked' deuce has less axle wrap than a bobber w/out a rear block.

i copied this design from my 460'ed Bronco that i have rear blocks on. solid. conceptually can be applied to almost any application.

what a waste of a good axle:sad:...... my purist heart is dying,,what color you will ask..........haha
 

TCUCV

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Mud ~ Its definitely hard to spit a block when its welded to the axle, but the majority of all blocks that are put on lifted trucks are not welded on the axle or fastened to anything. They are just placed between the springs and the axle and held down by the ubolts.

Definitely not arguing this issue, I think its great conversation for anyone reading this thread to understand everyones input and decide for themselves.:D
 

mudguppy

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i agree that blocks are usually just bolted in place. however, i wanted to offer to the conversation that with a bit more design, blocks can be used quite reliably.

i don't think that blocks must be welded for them to be held in place solidly. rather, i think fabbing a traction bar is more critical in stabilizing the axle than welding blocks. the setup i have on my Bronco does not have the block welded to the axle. rather, the traction bar brackets are mounted to the bottom of the axle tubing. the link bars resist lateral movement and also provide resistance to torsional rotation due to the moment of the link bar brackets. if the link bar is attached to the front of the axle tube (similar to the pics of my deuce) and the block is not welded, then you have not gained any resistance to 'spitting' the block out.
 
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