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Start Up - Trouble Shooting (VIDEO)

Solid Gold

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Portland, Oregon
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2xj4XwGUfsE[/media]

Rising rivers with major chances for landslides as the mountain experiences heavy rain from a Pineapple Express.

Oregon AAA Rescue - just got the membership, a great investment in this hobby!

They dispatched their shiny new truck up and pulled my "Rat Rig" down in style - PRICELESS.

The driver pulled off an amazing recovery along twisty muddy logging trails despite the big risks involved.

Side Note: 200 miles of towing anywhere - even if you're riding a bicycle!
 
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Solid Gold

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Started to detailing the CUCV and began the starter relay conversion mentioned on the forum - thanks doghead.

Have plans on putting a spin on fuel filter and glow plug switch in near future - right after the Roscommon 12 volt starter conversion.

Any opinions on a 12 volt starter with reduction gears from a 6.5 liter engine - or is there something better?

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QLVR3jpys9A[/media]
 

rnd-motorsports

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I would not convert to 12 volt without useing the gear reduction starter. I have done both ways and the gear reduction starter is the only way to go. [thumbzup] Alot of guys on here will tell you not to convert it to 12 volt. purests if I spell it correct. but its yours I convert all mine just for the simple reason less parts to go bad , easy to work on and when was the last time did you have to jump start a tank!:roll: 9 deg. outside yesterday plugged in truck for about 1/2 hr 45 min and started up like it was 50 60 deg outside. anyways if your going to convert to 12 volt you will not need the doghead conversion just remove the relay and join the purple with white stripe to the purple wire and you will be good. :beer: The relay is only used to send 24 volt to the starter with a 12 volt key switch if you convert to 12 volt you will not need it. again less parts to go bad!!!!! but only do away with it AFTER you change to 12 volt!!:driver: OH yes Nice lookin truck !!!
 

Solid Gold

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Finished up on the starter relay install - did it right!

Checked over wiring and fuses - cleaned and checked terminals.

Blew out the pine needles and 25 years of dust - just making things better.

Gave it a few hammer taps on the starter - just to wake things up in there.

Cranked it - no go, but did sound a little stronger on the try.

Thinking it's more now of a starter issue - what's your opinion?

http://www.dbelectrical.com/c-7557-62-liter-diesel.aspx - anyone deal with them before?

May have a chance to test the glow plug card and wires with a voltmeter later in the week - I hope this information helps.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EYca8dEROS8[/media]
 
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kassim503

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Stony Brook, NY
It could very well be the starter going bad, mine was slow to crank and sucked in huge amounts of amps before it went out. I jumped the relay, and cleaned out the inside of the motor with electrical cleaner and it cured it good enough for diagnosis. Try cracking the lines and really let her pump a good stream out on at least 4 maybe 5 injectors.

As a word of caution be careful with blowing compressed air on mouse nests/remains. There are plenty of rodent related infectious diseases that could go airborne.

But otherwise, great job so far! Masterful craftsmanship on that relay install. :)
 

rnd-motorsports

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Yes sounds as if starter has gone south.:-( I see the black out switch was the light problem [thumbzup] you can leave it in the up position will not drain anything turns no power on just conects cerciut . The DB Electric is the best place I have found for starters the 1028 I have now has there starter on it they are all new not rebuilts I like that! :beer: use the same starter bolts that are in it now nothing else needed do you have the strap from back or end of starter to the block? would get one if you dont. GOOD LUCK :driver:
 

Solid Gold

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Portland, Oregon
Decided today to bypass the glow plug resister behind the black back plate - local Steel Soldier member passed that trick my way.

Easy to do - a little drilling, reconnecting and done!

Even more electrical things were cleaned - installed new fuses after inspecting plugs.

Included is a quick tip for installing screws in hard to reach places - dropped and lost many to cold hands!

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nA3Ca9neCuo[/media]
 
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Solid Gold

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Portland, Oregon
Staying one step ahead - avoiding "crusty-rot-out" and keeping my Danner's inside!

The big question is Spray or Roll-on - which is the better for best results??

Seems the floor matts attract rat nesting and standing wetness - thinking a "sweating-effect" eventually causes the electrical connections to "crap-out" from the stagnant humidity trapped inside the closed cab.

Note: Both the musty military smell and service patina are at satisfactory levels at this point - still more work ahead.


[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QNgK_mFMRTw[/media]
 
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Solid Gold

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Portland, Oregon
Looking at a possible IP rebuild - not really bad news, kind of figured no heat, no fuel, no start, no go

New 24 volt starter is due this week - guessing UPS Ground is Molasses Brown for a reason!

Plan on draining the NP205 transfer case and engine oil tomorrow to examine those too - emphasis here is that you can learn a lot from fluids!

Momentary Glow Plug Switch was installed to bypass a burnt-out circuit card - very reliable and looks good.
(Toggle switch up for 10-15 seconds - turn key for fuel and start).
 
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Solid Gold

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Decided on modifying and installing a kill switch - prevention and protection is the red key here.

Simple thing to do if you're replacing battery cables - further connected a heavy duty braided stainless steel racing ground strap from the engine block to the frame giving better electron flow to complete circuits.
 
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doghead

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We do not allow links to private videos or links that solicit joining anything.
 

Solid Gold

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Portland, Oregon
WARNING: Posted video shows a kill switch location by modifying an existing outlet - maybe some folks like runaway starters and such, not me!

Just a home school mechanic here that reads the TM and chooses to work on his SNAFU CUCV daily in order to fulfill a mission - my truck was made by the lowest bidder.

Note: NO WIRES are shown for your safety - no links or misunderstandings.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1pxCB2Kw38[/media]
 
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Solid Gold

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Portland, Oregon
Received a cheap "Made in China" import starter from DB Electrical over the holidays - seems the bolt holes don't line up without some major drilling.

Recovered the well constructed "Made in America" heavy starter - btw fits perfectly in a CUCV and needs no FUBAR attention to adapt an installation.

Lucky meeting Bill from PMX Custom Alternators and Starters in Portland, Oregon - an expert that knows military 24 volt systems and can rebuild anything electrical on any vehicle.

Lesson learned - you get what you pay for.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wmv1g5e0W7A[/media]
 
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Solid Gold

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Portland, Oregon
Bill called me into his shop today - nice visit, good deal, great handshake and off with a fresh rebuilt starter from a Top Notch Pro.

Willamette Valley dipped way below freezing in the morning - hands got achey and numb turning the wrenches in a tight spot.

Rear retaining bracket has too much play - New Years Resolution is to find a tighter fitting bolt.

Bringing batteries in to warm up and top off a charge - more Cold Cranking Amps for the Start Up.

Lesson learned - the winter weather is rarely perfect for working outside.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgTlD_wHuwc[/media]
 
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Solid Gold

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Portland, Oregon
Just an early morning workout grabbing some electrical cables - looking at making some new replacements.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0xgpA13Lbc[/media]
 
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