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starter and volt meter question

sht2kll

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Spring Creek / Nevada
Howdy: I am having all kinds of trouble now that I have converted my M1008 to 12V. Lots of bugs to work out. After this conversion, My voltmeter does not work at all. Does somebody know where they take power from for the voltmeter? I also noticed when putting on the 12V starter that the bracket used to hold the starter is too short to mount on the starter. It is now held on by the 2 bolts on the housing. Does someone have a picture and measurments handy from a civi version so i can make one? last thing, does anyone have a downloadable version of the TM's? I need wiring diagrams and it would really help in working out the bugs with this beast. Thanks guys for all the help I have recieved. Tom
 

True Knight

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San Pedro, CA
That voltmeter is 24v. Is it getting any power to the wires on the back of the gauge? Check with a multimeter or test light. You will have to replace it with a 12v gauge for it to read right if the wires are getting the 12v.

I saw a post where Doghead said one of the members was hosting the TM's on his web site while the tm section is down. I dont remember what the name was tho, and its about my bedtime now. His name started with a J...that probably doesn't help much...
 

Warthog

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Since you converted to 12v, we have no idea how you did it so support will be a hit and miss. Not saying we can't help you, but it will be more difficult.

What type of starter did you install? the old sytle direct drive or the newer style gear reduction. Each uses a different style bracket. Many picture and the part numbers have been posted.

How did you do you conversion? The well documented Rosscommon method or your own design?

The resistor on the back of the voltmeter should have a 24v stamped on it. The civilian models will have a 12v stamped on it. I just replaced one on my suburban. I found it at the junk yard for $3.
 
Last edited:

sht2kll

Member
57
0
6
Location
Spring Creek / Nevada
Howdy: I did the conversion from instructions I got from a link on this site. It was well done with lots of pictures. It was real easy. Just remove the drivers side Alt and fold the wires back into the loom and some minor wire changes. I am using an AC Delco 12V civi starter (direct drive). I heard there is a bracket that is used to help brace the starter. The one on the 24V starter was a makeshift device that was bolted to from the Block to the starter, But it is too short to reach the 12v starter.
 

chevymike

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San Diego, CA
When I did my 12 volt conversion, I bought a 12 volt gear reduction starter and had to buy a new starter bracket. GM has only used 2 styles, one for the direct drive (large case) and one for the gear reduction (small case). You have to have the correct bracket for the style starter you have. Originally CUCV's had the direct drive style.

As for the volt meter, you will not be able to use the stock CUCV. I bought a 12 volt one at O'reilly's and swapped that in.
 

Warthog

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Howdy: I did the conversion from instructions I got from a link on this site. It was well done with lots of pictures. It was real easy. Just remove the drivers side Alt and fold the wires back into the loom and some minor wire changes. I am using an AC Delco 12V civi starter (direct drive). I heard there is a bracket that is used to help brace the starter. The one on the 24V starter was a makeshift device that was bolted to from the Block to the starter, But it is too short to reach the 12v starter.
Great. If it is the Rosscommon Equipment Center method, then it will be easier for us to help you.

The starter bracket for the direct drive is discontinued from GM. You may still be able to find one at a dealer or salvage yard. You can always make your own, but I have never measured one.

That a look at this thread. Post #9 show the two different brackets.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/57136-starter-bracket-gm-discontinued-once-stock-depleted.html

Google the part number and you may find a parts house that still has it instock. I have used www.gmpartsdirect.com in the past and they sometimes have old parts.
 
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