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Starter problems or more than that?

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Jonestown Pennsylvania
No I think he is referring to taking/removing the entire fuel tank from the vehicle and removing the sending unit assembly, draining the tank and replacing the fuel pick up sock that is attached to the sending unit. I don't think you will see much just by looking in the filler neck. I have looked in fuel tanks with a probe and seen total darkness and colored fluid. It was not very helpful to determine if the filter was clogged or the tank was contaminated. Get the PB blast ready and have a fun time. It is a good time to clean and undercoat the tank and straps. I use seat belts to replace the tar paper strap guards. Freebies at Youpullit's. Good Luck. I hope you have a heated garage to do this in.
 

zeisshensoldt

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haha, i think ill probably just buy a new tank and complete sender unit to save myself the hassle of cleaning.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
There is no hassle in cleaning. You remove the tank and dump it out. Replace the fuel pick up sock, undercoat the tank reinstall it and call it a day. If your tank is rusted thru and rusty inside yes then by all means replace it. Do as you wish. This is easy work and requires nothing but some time and effort on your part. total cost my way is less then $50. Your way $250. I am just trying to help. The tank straps are available for less then $30.
 

llong66

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kokomo, In
It is not too expensive a job to put in a new 'crank kit' (reground crank with matching bearings) (always replace oil pump while you are in there).
Dependable, I have heard and read several places NOT to regrind or buy reground 6.2/6.5 cranks, they are surface hardened and you will end up with "soft" metal with a reground crank.The cost of a new crank is not that much comparatively, and if you do it before a problem arises, you can either use your current rods as they are or have them check, resized and balanced. Just my 2 cents worth but I have heard it from more than one source.
 
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dependable

Well-known member
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Tisbury, Massachusetts
Dependable, I have heard and read several places NOT to regrind or buy reground 6.2/6.5 cranks, they are surface hardened and you will end up with "soft" metal with a reground crank.The cost of a new crank is not that much comparatively, and if you do it before a problem arises, you can either use your current rods as they are or have them check, resized and balanced. Just my 2 cents worth but I have heard it from more than one source.
That may be, but I put crank kit in a 82 6.2 K-30 (along with new oil pump and replaced glow plug damaged piston) and ran it for 10 or 12 years, truck still runs, but parked out back due to rust. If I recall, I had the motor out because of a rap due to sucked glow plug(bought the truck that way), and the crank bearings were a little worn according to "plastigauge" so I put in a crank & bearings since the motor was out anyway. At the time it was less than $300, including shipping.
 
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