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starting and chattering

junker46

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I just picked-up a M1009 that I thing may have gone swimming. It runs quite well but to get it going for a test drive we had to do the beating of the starter with a hammer. I got it home and proceeded to flush the crap out of it and may have done too good a job. The glow plug light doesn’t come on any more and the device mounted just behind the brake booster that looks like an old jeep solenoid starts buzzing like crazy about 5 seconds after key-turning (the key tumbler also hangs up).

I refuse to take parts off my M1028 to troubleshoot so I thought I’d try here. I know I’ll need a new starter or the one in it rebuilt. But the buzzing component has got me. Any suggestions?
 

doghead

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Junker, The picture you posted is NOT correct for the GP relay in a CUCV!

I can see an "s" and an "I" on the small terminals. (that is a "ford starter relay")


The cucv relay is NOT grounded by it's base(mounting bolts).

This has been covered many times.

86blazerk5, please slow down and be 100% sure of your replies, you're gonna screw someone up, with bad info.
 

doghead

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So, I did a search for Glow plug relay and yup, so many hits, it will make your head spin.

I read a few and found this posted. It is CORRECT.

You can use either

NAPA - ST85
Or
Ford Powerstroke relay
NAPA - ECHGPR110

You can also cross those numbers at any other parts house and get one cheaper if you don't like NAPA's pricing. The Ford relay looks different, but works the same.




If you don't like that info, read all the relevant threads and make your own choice.

If you don't understand the schematics and function of the CUCV electronics, don't make any assumptions or buy, or use parts that look close, you'll regret it!
 
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doghead

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Also, unless you have followed the troubleshooting procedures in the TM, or know what your doing, I doubt randomly replacing the relay will solve your issue.

The relay does not control the wait light.(you said your WTS light does not function).

You need to do a complete troubleshooting of your GP system(as outlined in the TM).
 

doghead

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Junker46, we need an AAR(after action report).:confused:
 

junker46

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Junker46, we need an AAR(after action report).:confused:
Okay. I just picked-up the ST85 today and will try it this weekend, along with dropping the starter and flushing it out just to see what happens.

Thinking further, I'm going to try to stock-pile some CUCV electric parts (starters, alts, etc) just for this. If possible, I plan on keeping thse for a few years. I also need to do the TM corrosion control to keep down the rust.
 

1stSarge

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86blazerk5, please slow down and be 100% sure of your replies, you're gonna screw someone up, with bad info.
I never thought It would happen, but I’m starting to think like doghead…..???

Just slow down there on the replies, some people on here have no idea what they are looking at. And like I did when I discovered SS, they might be hanging on your every word.

Poor batteries or loose/dirty/corroded connections on the relay will do the same thing. (For others with a similar problem)
 

DerangedMadman

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I have searched and searched about Glow Plug relays and everything I have seen says if there is an I and a S on the relay it is the wrong one. I just went out and picked up a ECHGPR110 from Napa it it has an S and an I on it yet this is the one eveyone say is correct, even in the FAQ section.

Should I take it back?
 

91W350

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Beating on the starter and making it work usually means the brushes are shot. Take it to a good starter/alternator shop and have it rebuilt. It will not take much and if done properly will work better and longer than most replacements you will buy. Glen
 

doghead

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QUOTE=DerangedMadman;678701]I have searched and searched about Glow Plug relays and everything I have seen says if there is an I and a S on the relay it is the wrong one. I just went out and picked up a ECHGPR110 from Napa it it has an S and an I on it yet this is the one everyone say is correct, even in the FAQ section.

Should I take it back?[/QUOTE]

I know for fact, the ST85 relay is correct. This is what I suggest you use


I did not write the cucv FAQ.

The GPR109 and GPR110 relays should not have an I or S labeling the small terminals. One or both of them may have studs that are too large.


Others have purchased relays that were incorrectly boxed/labeled.

Before installing it, test it.

What matters most is, neither of the small terminals can have continuity to the frame mount . Also the two small terminals must have continuity between them selfs.

The GP controller card switches the ground for the GP relay.
 
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