Steering alignment

[iluvbudwsr]

Ok my M1009 buddies! I got one to throw out at y'all here and the search function did not answer my question. As you can see by my avatar I keep my 1009 in tip top condition and is pristine other than a few minor problems which is expected with an 84 vehicle.
I put new tires on it after purchase and the problem I'm having was going on before adding the new tires. Well, when the tire shop came to me while it was still on the rack and said they couldn't get the front end alighned. I don't know if they were trying to spiff me out of a few more dollars or what. The fellow doing the alignment job said he did everything he knew how including using a breaker bar, heating it up with a torch and so on....he came back and told me there's NO WAY in heck he could get the job done and I would need new tierods and a tow bar for the front end just to alighn it. On the other hand it makes sense to me because I'm sure the military had probably never gave these vehicles the proper front TLC they needed. The steering almost kind of floats and want to stay to the left. Has anyone else had this similar problem or should I take it somewhere else. My thoughts on taking it somewhere else and something breaks I'm back to square one anyways. I just don't want to be raked over the coals here so from my fellow members what would a job like this $cost$ around? Any help would be appriciated in advance guys...

 

[unaffiliated]

If the alignment guy was trying to turn the tie rod adjustment sleeves and they were seized, that is not unusual. I run in to that all the time on Mercedes. I would say it would be more common on a these CUCV's because they sat for long periods of time and most of them have such low mileage that they may not have ever been aligned since they were built. Not sure what you mean by a "tow bar" needing to be replaced.

 

[iluvbudwsr]

Thanks for the quick reply bud! Any idea what kind of price range I'd be looking at for them replacing the tie rods? I dont know what he was talking about a "tow bar" either...unless he was talking to another customer when he said that..lol

 

[unaffiliated]

Not sure what they might charge you. You might want to look the parts up on NAPA or O'Reilly website for a 1984 K5 Blazer. The labor shouldn't be more than an hour or so to replace the tie rods and adjuster sleeves. It's a fairly easy process if you are replacing the sleeves at the same time.

 

[Anubis8472]

The tie rod on the 1009 is as simple as it gets.

It's a single bar that connects from one spindle straight acrost to the other with a ball joint on either end. (tie rod ends)

There is also a stabilizer that connects to the axle and the tie rod. Replacing that can help with steering wander.

You should be able to get the parts fairly cheap from your average parts store.

Tip for removing the ball joints (tie rod ends):
After removing the bolts use two hammers and strike the spindle arm where the tapered end fits into on both sides simultaniously.
This will 'shock' the tapered cup just enough for the ball joint (tie rod end) to just fall right out.
No pullers/spreaders needed.

If the ball joints are good and the only issue is the adjuster sleeve being seezed up good, you can always just replace that.
It's split along one side. Worste case it can be cut/twisted/burned off, just be careful to preserve the threads on the tie rod. Then install a new sleeve.

He may have been refering to the tie rod itself as a 'toe bar' as opposed to 'tow'. Just a guess as the angle being adjusted is toe in/out. I know a lot of people tend to refer to the tie rod ends (the 90 degree ball joints) as the tie rods.

 

[4x4 Forever]

200+/- clams for the tierod. 0.8hours for the labour, if I remember right.

I would replace the steering stabilizer while your at it, it can make your truck do all kind of weird things, making you think you have worse problems. Runs about 40 clams for an OEM type.

 

[wikallen]

How far out is your alignment? Did it actually need to be adjusted? I would measure it myself just to see.

Once you replace the tire rods, you can easily adjust your tow-in yourself with a helper. There are several ways of marking and measuring, just pick a flavor and go.

 

[Anubis8472]

How far out is your alignment? Did it actually need to be adjusted? I would measure it myself just to see.

Once you replace the tire rods, you can easily adjust your tow-in yourself with a helper. There are several ways of marking and measuring, just pick a flavor and go.

Indeed, it's actually normal for a K-5 to get 'some' un-even wear on the front tires. The short wheel base and turn radius can create some feathering on the outer section even if your alignment is perfect. The older full time 4x4 Blazers could really go through fronts.

Two steel plates with grease in between can be used under the tires as an "alignment rack". You can measure acrost from rim to rim at the front and back edges. You can also set up 4 jack stands around the vehicle and square up a string line and measure to that.

You're not going to be as precise as a laser alignment, but you can get it very close. I would say 'close enough' unless your truck does a lot of long trip/freeway type travel.

 

[Hasdrubal]

First, take it to a proper shop, that knows what they are doing and can actually explain it properly. When I went to do my alignment, my guy tells me that he couldn't do an alignment because there was too much play in the steering box. Had to get a rebuilt box. Make sure you get one from dedicated steering outfit, as I had to return the first one I bought through a local auto supply chain store. It looked all clean, painted and new, but had more play than the box they removed.

 

[wikallen]

I do my own alignments on my truck (F250), just set about 1/8" toe in. It drives straight, and my previous set of tires lasted over 90,000 miles and still had tread, but not enough for snow and mud. Current set has around 40,000 miles with new tie rods and ball joints installed about 30,000 miles ago.

 

[allenhillview]

Is the only adjustment in the front tie rods, tow? Or is there a ball joint cam if you take it apart? I'm OK but I'm going to set tow after a gear box send-off rebuild since mine leaked. That part went well but now just making sure I'm straight down the road. From TM some inward tow is allowed, 1/8" is where I'm going to set at.

 

[45FMJoe]

Indeed, it's actually normal for a K-5 to get 'some' un-even wear on the front tires. The short wheel base and turn radius can create some feathering on the outer section even if your alignment is perfect. The older full time 4x4 Blazers could really go through fronts.

Two steel plates with grease in between can be used under the tires as an "alignment rack". You can measure acrost from rim to rim at the front and back edges. You can also set up 4 jack stands around the vehicle and square up a string line and measure to that.

You're not going to be as precise as a laser alignment, but you can get it very close. I would say 'close enough' unless your truck does a lot of long trip/freeway type travel.

Yup, I had a '93 RamCharger 4x4 when I was younger and my dad told me the same thing. I had an '08 Jeep Wrangler 4x4, too. On both those vehicles I just rotated the tires every time I changed the oil. I'm planning on doing the same with my CUCV.