Steering issue input needed

[Rvitko]

The steering box, shaft, tie rod and ends, leaf spring bushing, sway bar bushings, shocks, dampener, are all replaced within the last 2 years and the axle is a nos replacement mil surp. Tires are also fairly new and I had an alignment done when the tires were replaced. When I got it the steering was horrible, I could turn the wheel 90 degrees with no change at the wheels, it is now responsive and generally tracks true. The problem that persists is that the truck (m1009 btw) requires constant correction for banking of the roads, i.e. If you think of a typical road domed in the middle, Whatever lane I am in, I have to correct 1-2 o'clock toward the middle depending on how extreme the bank is. My hunch is the springs are worn and too soft? Has anyone experienced this?

 

[Rvitko]

Fwiw, I want to fix it as it can be frightening, I have had incidents on rural 2 lane highways where I come off a flat bridge onto a banked curve and have to quickly correct to avoid oncoming traffic, I have had plenty of cars in my life so I know some correction is always needed but the degree seems extreme and unpredictable.

 

[dependable]

Usually, "automatic lane change" feature is worn ball joints, improper toe in adjustment, in addition to tie rod ends. Sounds like most of that is new, assuming NOS axle had came with new ball joints. Maybe double check alignment and ball joints.

 

[cucvrus]

Axle U joints is my opinion. They are seizing and you are having to over correct to get back in your lane of travel. Check them out. Please report back. Thank you.

 

[dependable]

Also, with a the recent work, make sure everything is torqued tight enough, spring u bolts, etc. Steering box mounting bolts especially have a way of backing off if not tight enough.

 

[cucvrus]

Also, with a the recent work, make sure everything is torqued tight enough, spring u bolts, etc. Steering box mounting bolts especially have a way of backing off if not tight enough.

Very good point. cracked frame is not a nice thing. It is easily repaired. But still not a nice thing.

 

[Rustyshackelford]

Check the suspension bushings while you're at it.

 

[Rvitko]

Thanks guys! U joints could be, it was a mil surp crate axel and it was covered in a red primer that had been a problem for the brake calipers, they would jam on the guidepins until I broke them down and cleaned and greased them. Everything is right to torque specs, that was one of my first thoughts. The suspension bushings are all new polyurethane. I have no lift, no crazy mods, I can't see any cracks and I have spent plenty of time staring at the underside changing parts.

 

[dependable]

The main place to check for cracks is where the steering box mounts to frame. The best way to spot it is to have someone turn the steering wheel while your looking at the box, otherwise can be easy to miss.

 

[dmetalmiki]

You should not second guess this problem. As you pointed out it is a VERY dangerous fault.Here is a link to study, and follow up the pointers to fully rectify the allready hazardous symptoms. (In consultation with a reputable car alignment shop). www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a111/1272576/. Keep us posted about the final rectification.

 

[Chaski]

Have someone check your alignment (or do it yourself). An "oversteer" like feeling when you give it a little input or the road crown changes could be a sign of incorrect toe in.

Get someone to sit in the drivers seat and rock the steering wheel left to right while you check everything out. That way you can see where the slop is (if any).

 

[Rvitko]

So, I got a full report from an alignment shop that was way more professional than the first one. It has excessive toe in and the pitman arm is not in the best shape, but not totally shot yet. I am going to replace the arm and then have the alignment done.