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Stereo advice from some sound guys plz

USAWEAPON777

Member
173
1
18
Location
Orwigsburg,Pa
Well I already have the speakers soooo, I need to go to the yard and retrieve a window. While there, can i grab the speaker bracket and will it work with my 3.5?
 

USAWEAPON777

Member
173
1
18
Location
Orwigsburg,Pa
are you sure that there is not a high pass filter setting on your head unit?
I did not see any mention of it in the user manual so I got 2 bass blockers.

Well I'm getting there, I fixed my passenger inner fender so I won't loose my batteries lol, am almost done fixing the battery boxes, got a "new" window for the driverside from the junkyard, got the oem speaker brackets from the same truck, removed the dash, covered it while it was out. Now today I hope to run all the wiring for the stereo and maybe just maybe hook it up today.
 

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mistaken1

New member
1,467
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Location
Kansas City, KS
Total RMS watts or both amps x2. Divide that be the running voltage of the car (13.8v) in most cases. = Amps. You can find a charts that will show the recommended wire size based on the amps and length of the wire. In this case I'll assume 1200w rms based on what he said. 1200x2=2400. 2400/13.8=174amps.

Assuming you will use a distribution block (increased resistance in each connection) and as much weather as these trucks see (the more the corrosion = more resistance) a 10-12 ft run you would want to use a 2ga. I would just run a 0ga to give you room to expand down the road.
Most electrical supply house carry a conductive electrical grease that is used to prevent corrosion on electrical power connections.

Would that be a good thing to use on these audio distribution blocks or would there be problems because of the audio frequencies rather than the 60Hz power frequency?
 

Brett09

New member
135
1
0
Location
San Bernardino, CA
Most electrical supply house carry a conductive electrical grease that is used to prevent corrosion on electrical power connections.

Would that be a good thing to use on these audio distribution blocks or would there be problems because of the audio frequencies rather than the 60Hz power frequency?
I've never had an issue with corrosion on a distribution block but preventative maintenance of any kind is never a bad idea. A good dielectric couldn't hurt being these don't really have insulation and see quit a bit more condensation inside.
 

USAWEAPON777

Member
173
1
18
Location
Orwigsburg,Pa
Alright guys well I have been making progress and now am so close that I am doing the final wiring. I'm going to use the extra connectors on the fuse box from the ignition circuit for my regular power wire( for head unit). however, can someone inform me of an always on circuit that i can wire for the head units memory please?
 

cucv1833

Member
533
4
18
Location
Lake Charles, LA
I ran my radio power from the 12v in the fuse box and ran the memory wire to the 6ga power wire for the amp which is ran directly the the front batt pos the memory is tied in to the amp I don't expect it to draw alot of power and it's been working[thumbzup]
 

USAWEAPON777

Member
173
1
18
Location
Orwigsburg,Pa
how did you tie it into the the power wire?. Also I was testing the circuits in the fusebox and contrary to posts i found in the search: the plug in next to the 5 amp fuse seems to be the only always hot source and it is NOT 12v.
 

cucv1833

Member
533
4
18
Location
Lake Charles, LA
how did you tie it into the the power wire?. Also I was testing the circuits in the fusebox and contrary to posts i found in the search: the plug in next to the 5 amp fuse seems to be the only always hot source and it is NOT 12v.

This is my new stereo install very straight forward and easy and sounds great.
I ran the stereo power to the 12v source in the fuse box checking it with the voltmeter with ignition on and off then took the ground and memory wire for the stereo and wired in into the amp power and ground at the amp. it works great it may not be 100% correct but i dont see a problem in this application. Im running 2-6.5 and 2-5.25" speakers and 1- 8" Punch sub with a 200 watt Amp only for the Sub.:beer:
 

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cucv1833

Member
533
4
18
Location
Lake Charles, LA
As you can see i have the remote the stereo ground and stereo memory tied into the AMP lugs.
Are you can bring a 14 ga. wire for your memory straight to the diamond shape juction box on the firewall if you dont want to do it that way
 

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USAWEAPON777

Member
173
1
18
Location
Orwigsburg,Pa
Alright, ya thats what i was wondering if you just put the wires together at the amp lug. Thanks for the info. Tomorrow i hope to hook it all up. Hey how did you attach your amp. I dont wanna drill holes in the back of my m1008 behind the seats. Im thinking either velcro or just some straps.
 
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cucv1833

Member
533
4
18
Location
Lake Charles, LA
Alright, ya thats what i was wondering if you just put the wires together at the amp lug. Thanks for the info. Tomorrow i hope to hook it all up. Hey how did you attach your amp. I dont wanna drill holes in the back of my m1008 behind the seats. Im thinking either velcro or just some straps.
Drilling holes is totally up to you I just sat it behind The seat in my M1008 as you can see in my M1009 it's mounted on my homemade center console on my 2007 F-150 Harley truck it's professionally installed and drilled in on the back wall theoretical you want to get some air flow to your amp to diapate heat I got 2-12s under the seat. I see your from Pa. I been to Erie and Meadville not too bad
Good luck bud hope this helps
 

USAWEAPON777

Member
173
1
18
Location
Orwigsburg,Pa
Well the stereo is DONE! Thanks to everyone who helped! I love it the 3.5 are surprisingly powerful for only 25w rms, and the woofers well............. there just **** loud haha. I love the bluetooth and usb in the head unit. So now i can play all my songs wirelessly right off my phone. I will try to post some pics up tommorrow of it all finished and get some db readings for a member on here.
 
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