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Still not sure...

Jonas

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My truck is what seems to be a rebuilt cucv to a more civilian version... all the interior missmatch and/or is broken..

When decoding the vin i end up with the following information

1G8EK18C8CF111153

1 = USA
g = General Motors
8 = Multipurpose Vehicle All M1009's (blazers)
E = 6001 - 7000 Hydraulic
K = 4 Wheel Drive 1981-86
1 = 1/2 ton
8 = Blazer
c = Engine ? (J would be 6.2 diesel, mine has the 6.2 diesel why is t a C ?...)
8 = Character is a check digit to verify VIN accuracy using a mathematical formula
c = 1982
F = Flint

If i place the vin in a VIN Decoder it returns as K10 Blazer -82.


Example of the color in the truck ( where its not painted black).

http://i44.tinypic.com/rizrbs.jpg
http://i40.tinypic.com/1z349bs.jpg
http://i41.tinypic.com/zjxobn.jpg

It also have the blackout switches down to the left next to the light switch...



Is there anything i can check or is there a number on some part wich would identify the vehicle totally?

Please help me identify my vehicle.
Thanks alot for you help!
 

Jonas

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its not cucv, vin should be D18 not K18
Its possible that the vin plate was moved from another vehicle there, the gauges and clusters fit poorly and doesnt seem like they were there from factory.

Anywhere i can find the VIN excep for in the front and the driverside door?
 

Big Earl

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cucv

Maybe someone couldn't get a title for it, switched vin #'s from another blazer that had a good title?
 

Jonas

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Maybe someone couldn't get a title for it, switched vin #'s from another blazer that had a good title?
That doesnt sound so bad...

All screws are in the wrong position, 2-3 cm off from the default holes for ex. the seats. New holes has been drilled next to the old ones... nothing matches up in there :p

So, anywhere to look for a specific number on some part or a vin number somwhere else?
 

BIG_RED

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It says somewhere on the engine if it's a C code diesel or a J code diesel. J code = CUCV. C code = Civvy. The civvy ones have slightly different heads - less horsepower. supposedly less reliable also. I heard the rocker arms are held on with metal on the J codes and plastic bits on the C codes - not sure. I'd say if it's got 2 alts and the glowplug resistor on firewall and 24 volt starter - you probably have a CUCV.. can't imagine anyone would swap those into a civvy.. although it is possible. CUCV has 3/4 ton leaf springs too. Maybe post some pics?
 

doghead

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In my opinion, you would have been better off, adding to your original thread. By posting a new thread, instead of continuing the original, you have now created a thread that is incomplete and people may only find and respond to one thread, and the info they need is in the other. It is much better to continue a thread, than to post a second one, on the same subject(especially when it is simply a continuation of the first).



Efficient management of the forums, is every posters responsibility. Please consider this, next time you post.
 
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91W350

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Check for the brackets that support the hitch. The rear of a CUCV is pretty well boxed in with braces for the lift shackles and the hitch.
 

doghead

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Looking at the wiring, should be a dead giveaway. Is the starter and GP supply, 24 volts?
 

Jonas

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Looking at the wiring, should be a dead giveaway. Is the starter and GP supply, 24 volts?
Hi,

And sorry all for the new thread Il think about that the nex time :)

The starter is 24Volt, resistor pack to cut it down to 12 for the rest of the truck sits over the firewall. Dont know about 2 alterators right now,

Il get some pics of the engine and surroundings tonight.
 

Warthog

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You truck started its life as a military CUCV. There are dead giveaways in the pictures. One being the Gen2 diode ball of tape in the opening above the heater cluster. The engine is the J model.

The VIN should also be located on the driver door jamb.

What are you wanting to do with the truck? Restore it to original, fix it to work as-is?.
 

Attachments

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Westech

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o man.. good luck getting that back to a CUCV... looks like there has been a lot of hacking going on there. I would just get her good to drive and makeeverything work.. but get it back to As is military... not worth it.
 

Jonas

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o man.. good luck getting that back to a CUCV... looks like there has been a lot of hacking going on there. I would just get her good to drive and makeeverything work.. but get it back to As is military... not worth it.
hehe no thats not my plan either.

Just fix her up as good as possible :)

But its fun to know what it once was ;)
 

Warthog

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Looks like most of the wiring is still there so you can use the wiring diagrams from the Appendix F or E from the -20 or -34 manuals as a guide.

As far as everything else the manuals will be useful also.

Good luck.
 
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Jonas

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I will take apart the door when i get time to see if the plate is there :)

Thanks alot for your help gentlemen, i really appreceate it.

Also im glad to hear that I had the strong 6,2 diesel engine :)

Il pop in when i need some help!

Best Regards
Jonas
 

Milbikes

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Just something to think about......tampering with motor vehicle VIN numbers is a big no-no. In CT we have to get VIN verification to register vehicles (Only if bought from out of state I think). Any DMV inspector here would impound that truck in a heartbeat if he saw a VIN tag from another vehicle swapped into that one. At swap meets the state police look at all the Harley engines for sale, and if they find one with tampered numbers (Common on old Harley engines) they take both the engine and the owner to the station. I have seen it in person as they escorted a motor and owner away. A swapped VIN tag screams "stolen" to the authorities. I'd be cautious about investing any money into that truck.
 
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