stuck 16.00r20

[SuperJoe]

i have recently came across what i believe to be a good deal on some 10 lug standard wheels. not combat. i got the lock rings off and the first bead ring. i got the other side bead broke off the rim but i think the rim is stuck to the liner inside. one of them came out with some coaxing but the others just seem to be not in cooperation with me. and to boot at more than 350# it makes me tired real fast fussing with it. any tips or hints you can give aside from beat the (insert word here) out of it. i have no power tools that i know of that will help this matter and i wouldn't care if the tires that are installed didn't have flat spots wore into them. i don't even know how that would happen.

thanks in advance and pics help my simple mind
Joe

 

[Big CASE]

make sere you are using soapy-water .When you are taking them off , and pull out the vaile stem of the tub . after that you just have to work hard and

 

[SuperJoe]

oh yeah the soapy water. i used about a gallon of that and also about half a can of wd40 on one, it was just an idea.

also have you found it easier to lift the wheel half out of the tire or did it seem to work better to have the wheel sit on something like a bucket and have the tire fall off the outside

 

[Big CASE]

once you brake the bead and take off the ring,it should just come off, then just pull out the linger and then the tube . some can be a pain to do . I do know if you are not getting all of the air out of the tube ... they will stick to the rim

 

[Jones]

Once both sides of the bead are broken loose from the rim and the valve stem is pulled clear of the hole; you're left to fight the liner being laminated to the rim (I think they coat them at the factory with something that makes the liners glue themselves to the wheel).

Try setting the tire (not the wheel) on blocks so that there's three or four inches of room between the wheel and the shop floor, ground, patio, whereever you're working-- with the wheel's lock ring side up.
Next, pull the tire up off the wheel as far as you can and block it up with some short pieces of 2X4-- three or four, equally spaced around the circle.
This gives you working room, keeps from pinching your hand between tire and wheel, and will aid in pushing the wheel downward when it finally breaks loose.
Now you need a specialty tool. I made mine out of a piece of heavy metal banding but anything steel, about 2' long, 1 1/2" to 2" wide, and somewhere around 1/16" thick will do.
Round off the corners and edge on one end and with soapy water or WD-40, force this tool down between the liner and wheel. By rocking the tool and using an up and down sawing motion you'll be able to work your way around, breaking the liner loose as you go.
Don't forget continued liberal applications of soapy water to keep the tool sliding, and iced tea to keep you cool, as you work.
No, a hacksaw blade won't work just as well. The blade isn't stiff enough for the downward push you need to in order to work the tool in, and the saw teeth just add to the drag.

 

[SuperJoe]

very good idea. thanks jones. the iced tea is least important to the job but best part of the post. thanks for looking out.

 

[SuperJoe]

Jones do you have a pic of this tool you have or made? i tried a few different things like i thought you meant but i can seem to get them to work. i may be too anxious with the hammer to get it in there and keep bending it. also i cannot for the life of me get the tire to come up at all. not to put the blocks in but even enough to get a flat screw driver in there. also i was thinking about it maybe i dont have 5 ton wheels. i may have hemtt wheels. these are not buds like my m35-a2. i think 5 tons would look the same and these look like singles. the mount surface is about 2.5 inches inside the wheel on the lock ring side. would this change the technique?

 

[SuperJoe]

got a few pics of the one wheel i got out. didnt take a pic of the lock ring cause we all know what that looks like

 

[Barneyszoo]

Can you try putting the tire under the break drum/hub and let the jack down on the tire, let the weight of the truck pop the beed off

 

[Jones]

SuperJoe,
Sorry, no pictures.
The tool I made looks like a big, oversized spatula like you'd use to spread icing on a cake.
If 1/16" is too thin then go to 1/8". With the corners and end edge rounded you won't hurt the liner.

Barneyszoo is right, sure sounds like the rim is still stuck to the wheel. Make sure the bead, outside and inside are broken loose first. Just because the lock-ring is off is no guarantee things will start to move and you are wrestling a pretty stiff and heavy tire.

I use a lot of soapy water and a high-lift jack to get the tougher ones to go. Tire on the ground under something heavy like a deuce bumper (with the deuce attached, of course), and with base of jack on the bead. As you jack up the deuce the base should force the bead back enough to start pouring soapy water into the separation.
Do this until you've worked around and have the bead loose from the wheel then flip the tire over and repeat the process.

It's slow and a real pain but it's the only way, short of taking the tires to your local truck stop and paying someone to do the dirty work.
That option may not be as bad as you think, 'cause those guys have the experience and all the tire breaking tools.

Safety Tip # 46. DO NOT try to air up the tire with the lock ring off in an effort to let the air pressure do the job. Many have tried, most have failed, few have survived.
When it lets loose, the only consolation will be that the lock ring won't maim or kill you-- it'll just be the tire or wheel or pieces thereof.

 

[SuperJoe]

here are a few more pics i have these are the point they are all too. i have the back bead off for sure. i must not have the front side off yet even though the lock ring and inner ring is off. this is my blazer on the wheel and the tire on the cinder blocks and no downward deflection at all. this is the heaviest thing i own. i dont have my deuce anymore.

i am very glad for safety tip 46. my roommate thought it up last night and thought it was a good idea. it got me hyped again to go out and give it a try. will it still be dangerous trying that with both rings off?

 

[Jones]

Most definately, yes! In this case, air is not your friend.
Even with both rings off, something is still holding everything from coming loose.

Were you to try it, the most likely scenario is going to be this;
Once you air up the tire with the lock ring and bead ring off you'll find out this important fact: it takes far more air pressure to get everything broke loose than it takes to over-inflate and shred the inner tube.
>>Objects at rest tend to stay at rest, unless acted upon by a superior force.<<

Next, and you gotta watch very closely because this'll all be happening really fast-- after shredding the inner tube all that air isn't going to just quit for the day. There will still be enough pressure (energy, force, call it what you will) to push the tire one way while pushing the wheel the other.
>>For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction.<<

But enough about Newtonian Physics-- did I mention Murphy's Law?
If you're fast enough, and lucky enough, and unlucky enough, to dive behind your gun safe for protection, that is what will topple over on you after taking a bank shot from the airborne tire that would have made Minnesota Fats proud.
And the wheel-- let's not forget the wheel. After sailing out the open garage door, it skips down the driveway like a stone across a pond and takes out the neighbor's brand new Prius.

 

[SuperJoe]

i am gonna try some wedges and a 16#er. i seen it on the how too that was wrote up and think thats what i need. ill let you know the progress

 

[Jones]

Good luck. My heart goes out to you.

Another tool I've seen that's real handy is what looks like a sledge hammer but with one side drawn out into a blunt ended duck's bill. Commercial truck tire guys use 'em to break loose the beads when they hit right at the edge of the bead closest to the wheel.
I, on the other hand, manage to always swing short and wrinkle the wheel rim or swing far and hit high enough into the side wall to have to sidestep the thing coming back on rebound.

You never mentioned your age but as you approach my advanced years you'll start to add one more computation into the equation.
"The Aggrevation Factor" If it's a big enough pain in the A$$, I figure it's easier by far to just let someone else fight with it.
Works with cars, trucks, motorcycles, boats, motor homes, women...

 

[SuperJoe]

i must be in between years and aggravation. i called the shop and 25 a tire to debead. i have been at it 3 days now and feel 3 more days is what i need to call in support. and for the comparison i am 27. at 18 it was pride and no way someone else would show me how to do things. where i am now i will let those guys show me things. the things you learn in time.

 

[Jones]

Just hang in there, you're on the right track... you've already survived your adolescence.
Years into the future you'll look back and shiver at the things you put yourself through.
All of this simply shows us what works and what doesn't-- we just have to be smart enough to tell the difference.

$25 / tire, hmmm. All us guys in the trenches like to know we're appreciated. Anybody can throw money at 'em. Unannounced, bring in a 12 pack of sodas. Gotta be hot work breaking down tires.
Even if it doesn't get you a little break on the price; they'll remember and not slam the door in your face next time you drive in with a truck load of HEMTT tires.

 

[rosco]

I have used a piece of saw blade to slide in there to cut things loose. Also, I have used the trick Jones describes. 4x4 blocks, I found work best - 3 or 4 of them. Another variation is to support the wheel (like with a smaller car wheel), so that it is up off the ground letting the tire's weight do some of the work. Then use the slide hammer, or duck bill hammer, to break things loose. CokaCola works better then WD40

Good Luck
Lee in Alaska