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Stuck glow plug, advice needed.

FlameRed

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Some progress! Yea!

Regarding the "Crank" problem - I started tracing things from the KDS box back. Only 3V on lead A (aka 14b) when the switch is on the crank position! Next stop was the neutral starter safety switch on the shifter and wallah, one of the packard connectors was backed out. So I cleaned the internals of that packard and now it cranks properly and starts and runs fine!

Hurrah!

Next problem is the wait light. To review, when switched to run, the wait light flashes briefly, but does not light after that.

I started by taking apart all there of the connectors (two into the box, and one on the temp thingy on top the engine) and cleaned them as best I could and used some automotive electronic cleaner from a spray can on all three. No joy there :(

So I check the ground going into lead D aka 57B, going into the box and it looked ok. But just to be sure, I tapped into it and ran a tempary separate wire to the negative battery post. No help there. All the battery connections appear tight and clean.

So I am looking at TM 9-2320-280-20-1 starting around page 2-333. So if I understand it correctly, the thing that screws into the top of the engine that looks like a temp sensor is really called the GlowPlug Controller, and the box under the dash is called the Protective Control box - both of which I replaced as a matched set. I don't have this STE/ICE-R tester they talk about but I can use a multimeter which they seem to include

All over the place they say "Connect the RED and BLACK leads to the connections stated in the question.". I see diagrams with lots of leads on the same page but it escapes me what pairs of leads they are talking about. Goobernment documentation I am not used to!

It says that the GlowPlug Controller (temp sensor) can impact the wait light going on and off. The wait light was off with the old LAU controllers, one reason was the bulb was out, but now I am wondering if the LAU and that corresponding GlowPlug Controller saw issues with my glow plugs, and now the new KDS does also? I tried it with the two butched glow plugs plugged in and not plugged it. I am kind of guessing that both controllers saw the glow plug problems and now I am stuck as I cannot get them out. Seems like leaving those two unplugged the car starts and runs fine - just no wait light.

I guess I should have gotten a manual control box instead of a KDS as some of you told me to and be rid of this aggrevation!
 
Last edited:

AAVP7

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Well, the manual glow box is one headache less for sure....

By the way: You mentioned testing by multimeter. There is a test procedure in TM-20-1 for the Glow Plug Controller/Temp Sensor. You´re supposed to measure certain resistances. However, this test procedure only works on the very early, non-solid-state GPC/TS. It says so in the TM; but this is easily overlooked.
BUT: All the GPC/TS I´ve ever seen have been the newer, solid state variety. The older, non-solid state ones were probably exchanged long ago.

We had several members go through numbers of GPCs that seemed to be faulty according to the test, but they were actually completely OK, just solid state.
As far as I know, there is no test procedure for solid-state GPC/TS.
 

Mogman

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The old boxes were pretty stupid and did not care about much but the new smart start box may see you have missing/bad glow plugs (not enough current)
RWH should have the answer to that as he has dealt with many smart start issues.
 
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