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Stump vs Deuce

e551098

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The stump won.....Was going through a mound of debris (felled trees and branches) as we crested the hill my buddy shouted "STUMP!" and boom we hit, front wheel hit hard and went over the top. See pics, bolts completely sheared off, good thing though. Now I can only turn left and no right.... Ready for a NASCAR race.

Suggestions on the bolts ? I think whatever the shop has should be fine, interested in your thoughts.
 

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mdmorgan

AM3 U.S. Navy
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they are rivits not bolts and they are acctually kinda soft compared to a grade 8 bolt, but that was still one h3ll of a hit to shear them like that. I say pull it all apart and replace with grade 8 bolts.
 

rosco

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I did that one time with a heavy pickup. The way we got out of the woods was to pull it back in place by tying it to a tree, and pulling it back in place. Then cutting a chunk of wood, and putting it between the frame and the spring. Check to see if you didn't bend the axle housing & alignment.
 

e551098

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I did that one time with a heavy pickup. The way we got out of the woods was to pull it back in place by tying it to a tree, and pulling it back in place. Then cutting a chunk of wood, and putting it between the frame and the spring. Check to see if you didn't bend the axle housing & alignment.

Yes I am concerned about the axle, but my thoughts is that because the rivets sheared the force of the impact was transitioned through that. If the rivet material had been stronger they might of held and then the weaker point in the axle/suspension would of then released the energy. Trust me its going on a lift for a thorough inspection. Would be interesting to see a Rockwell axle bent……
 

armytruck63

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If you can locate a frame repair shop that works on large trucks, I would ask them what they recommend. The rivets are designed to stay tight for the life of the truck.

I had a friend who replaced some worn rivets with grade 8 bolts on his CUCV. He periodicaly had to re-tighten the bolts and replace them every few years.
 

73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
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ckack the U bolts amd chack the rear hanger for movement, I would replace the rivits
 

Nonotagain

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If you go with bolts, the bolt holes need to be reamed to size, not drilled. The bolts will require a very tight fit which you won't get with a drilled hole.

As for re-riveting, the shop doing the work will need an 8-12 X rivet gun and a very heavy bucking bar.

The last problem that may be encountered is finding the rivets. The last time I needed large steel rivets, I had to order them from Rapid Rivet. The problem is that you have a minimum purchase, which probably will make riveting uneconomical.
 

Jake0147

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Panton, VT
Grade 8 will hold it for sure. "Right" would be what most of us uneducated machanic's call "frame bolts" (I'm sure there's a real name, but that's what everyone I know calls them), truck shops and spring shops keep them. They're designated as grade 8, but they're a flange head, and they use a different coating. Phosphate maybe? Anyhow, they're black. They come coarse and fine, but you won't find coarse in an application like that.
That's what I'd do anyhow...
 
429
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Location
Berkeley Springs, WV
Do you really want to use grade 8 bolts? The rivets were soft enough to shear and possibly save him from more extensive damage. Grade 8 bolts might not be so forgiving. Something softer might be a better choice.
 

e551098

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I will be calling the shop in the AM that will be handling this, I'll see if they have the rivets and what their thoughts are.

I am guessing that this was designed as a sheer point to save the frame/axle ?

Steering box is ok as when the truck hit the stump the steering wheel nearly broke my arm with how fast it turned.
 

12345

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Tillamook, Oregon
Yeah, what paintballs said.

I know some of the competition drag race guys use grade 5 fasteners because they are less brittle and handle more elastic deformation. Who knows though. I'd bet grade 5 or grade 8 would work just fine.
 
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