Stumped by Starter

[Braunchitis]

So, back in January the original starter on my M1009 locked up, or so I was told by my mechanic.

After them putting wrong starters on, etc, I finally ordered one myself (A new Nikko "OE" starter, made for 24V 6.2L) and had them put it on. It worked fine for a day. The next day, 60 miles from the shop I brought it to, the starter doesn't work. I just hear the solenoid clicking when I press the button. I took the starter back to place I got it to have them bench test it, and it worked fine. Bring it back, put it on, try hooking the batteries back up, and the starter starts spinning without pushing out the bendix. Turns out, I let the big wire going to starter touch another terminal on the starter when I put it back on, and I fixed this, but at least then I knew that the starter and batteries do actually work.

So I fixed the cable, and now I just have solenoid clicking again.
As I said, the starter is new, the batteries are from January, and a new flywheel was supposed to have been put on.
Any ideas about what to do would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

[southdave]

Starter relay maybe, Look up doghead starter relay

 

[Warthog]

Is the starter a SHIM or NO SHIM starter? What year is the engine? Your bendix may not have clearence for the flywheel.

Check out this resent thread.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/49893-dumb-newbie-starter-question.html

What about the ground wire to the engine? Is it clean and tight? The trucks really like clean grounds.

 

[NMC_EXP]

Like someone else said - search the CUCV forum on this website for starter relay modifications.

The relay is located under the dash next to the large Canon type connector. This seems to be a weak link in the system and there is a lot of info here on how to upgrade it.

When it goes bad either (1) no crank, or (2) will not stop cranking until the starter goes up in smoke. Cheap, easy fix.

Regards

Jim

 

[Braunchitis]

The truck is a 1986, the starter says NO SHIM. I checked the ground wire, it's nice and tight.

I was wondering too if the relay might be at fault. When it was in the shop, they told me they got another starter, and tried it, and it didn't stop running, so it burnt itself up. I figured this had something to do with them putting the wrong starter on (I guess they didn't catch it when I said 24V) or a poorly rebuilt starter.

I will check the relay, thanks!

 

[Braunchitis]

OK, put a new relay in, per "doghead starter relay modification" thread, same problem...

 

[Crash_AF]

You said that you caused a short while installing it, what repairs did you do to correct this? It sounds like there is some kind of voltage sag going between the terminal block and the starter. I would put a meter on the large terminal of the starter and see what the voltage is while cranking. Also, if you get a remote starter (the trigger or button with clips) and hook it to the small terminal on the starter, you can bypass the entire ignition system to see if it is the starter or the truck wiring.

Later,
Joe

 

[Braunchitis]

Finals week is over, back to working on my truck...

To repair the short, I took the starter off, and rotated the big red wire on the starter so that the tab on the wire's terminal fit into the little slot on the starter.

I'll try poking around with a meter.

 

[Braunchitis]

I checked the voltage at the big red terminal, 25 volts with no crank, ~23 with switch held. The little terminal (white wire) reads 19 volts, [EDIT] 25 when switch held.

Also, I took off the starter to triple-check my connections and got it bench tested again to make sure I didn't mess anything up when I accidentally crossed the wires. It works fine, but I noticed when I took the starter off that 3 teeth on the flywheel look a little beat up. This is supposed to be a new flywheel, so it seems the gear is popping out and banging against the flywheel instead of engaging it.

Why could that be happening? And does the gear need to be completely extended before the starter will turn?

 

[doghead]

You say it work OK, yet you ask how it works?

The motor should spin immediately.(as the gear moves out)

 

[Braunchitis]

I asked the guys at the place I got the starter and at NAPA, they said the gear has to be all the way out before it will start spinning. Since it was banging into the flywheel, it wasn't going out all the way, and that's why it wasn't turning. I put a 1/64" shim on this morning, which gave it enough clearance to fully extend the gear, and she started right up.

Thanks for the help, guys.

 

[Dark Horse]

Hello everyone, please bear with me as I stumble my way through this thread for I am new to this site (which has been a dollar saver for sure).

I have a 1985 6.2 24v ex-military blazer that I have had since 2003 and couldn't be happier with its performance. I to have been having some starter issues, the latest problem was that I have found that my 24v starter was only getting 12v when engaged and that ended up burning up the silnoid.

I have gotten new 24v starter since and bench tested it with 24v, works great (on the bench) Now, I have ran a wire to the small post on the starter to an after maket "push to start button" in the cab and from the button to the 24v post on the battery. The wire on the big post of the starter goes to the junction on the fire wall by the battery. should turn the starter over correct? or not?

Well, needless to say... I turned th key on as normal and pushed the button to start. The Starter spun but didnt engage but kept spinning until I unhooked both batteries. The starter would spin no matter what terminal i touched + or -.

Sorry about any lingo I used I would be glad to explain anything more in depth if needed, Just a dumb farm boy tryin to turn some wrenches on a project truck, any help would be appreciated. Thank you

 

[Milbikes]

If the "push to start" switch isn't rated for the amperage, it might have burned/welded itself closed. Get a wiring diagram, and go back to stock. It is easier to solve problems with a tech manual and vehicle that is the same as the manual. When people start getting creative with modifications, it becomes very hard to diagnose and solve problems. If a system is modified due to a prior problem, the prior problem remains. Compound that with the odds that a modification may not be a good and functional one, and you have a real nightmare to solve.

 

[Dark Horse]

Thanks for the reply. The starter switch is rated for 24v 40amps and yes this was just a way to try get around the pevious owners rigging. The wiring diagram would be a help if I could come across one not sure where to look for the 24v wiring diagram?? (my guess would be on this site somewhere)

Getting the starter back later today and will cross my fingures. Also does anyone know about the suppressor that is between the two + and - posts on the firewall? On mine they look like diodes and they are broken. Would that have anything to do with it?

Thanks again

 

[Warthog]

Welcome to SteelSoldiers.

Make sure you visit the Cucv Wiki - Steel Soldiers::Military Vehicles Supersite (CUCV Wiki) that is at the top of the page on the CUCV Forum.

All of the CUCV Technical Manuals are listed and many other helpful bits of information.

Make sure you download the repair manuals. You can get then for free. A couple of our members have posted them on their websites.
Also the wiring diagrams are in the appendix of the -20 and -34 manuals.

JATONKAM35s HOME ON THE WEB

Also checkout the http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/20600-faq-thread-cucvs.html stickey. It is where we try to post helpful tips and tricks.
Almost every question you will have has been asked and answered many times. The advanced search will become your best friend. Please don't hesitate to ask something that you can't find.

Read the TM 9-2320-289-10 Operators Manual to find out how a stock system should work. It is simular to the Operators Manual for Civilian vehicles. It tells you where all the lighs, switches, etc are located and what they do.

Three of the most important tools you can buy are:
Voltmeter and know how to use it - ~$10 and up
12v Battery Charger - ~$50 for a decent one
Battery Load Tester - ~$30 for an okay one at Harbor Freight

Warthog

 

[Warthog]

.... Also does anyone know about the suppressor that is between the two + and - posts on the firewall? On mine they look like diodes and they are broken. Would that have anything to do with it?

Thanks again

The diodes are for Noise Suppression for the Military Radios. If you are not running the radio set then you don't need the diodes. They should not be causing you issues.

 

[mistaken1]

The manuals with wiring diagrams were on the old site. The site owner is trying to move them to the new site.

"@@@@@@@@@@@ Old site is down again. Sorry!! I hope to have the new TM section up soon. @@@@@@@@@"