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Suburban front doors on a M1009?

twlinks

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I was at a salvage yard yesterday picking up a different hood for my 1009. While there, we came across a nice passenger side door on a Suburban that the salvage guy thought would fit. It looks right, but I wanted to check here before getting it. Anyone know for sure?


The other thing is maybe good too because it has power windows and the drivers door is there with all the components that I could switch over on mine. I'd switch the drivers door too, but it's pretty badly damaged and mine is very good. Can someone tell me how difficult it would be to switch out all of the window innards and connect power to everything? It's been in the yard for sometime so no way of knowing if it's toast or not is there?
 

Recovry4x4

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The door will fit for sure assuming its the same body style. Swapping in the physical compnents isn't too difficult. Not sure I would want the power windows.
 

MT4222

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Any of the doors from that vintage of the c/k series will fit. Swapping the components isnt to hard. The hardest thing will be hooking up the power to the new power windows and adding a switch but that shouldnt be to difficult. Make shure you add an inline fuse.

Goodluck.
 

twlinks

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Thanks guys. I'm not sure I want to mess with the power window stuff either...just something else to have to deal with. I'll probably just swap out the hand crank from mine. Appreciate the input.
 

wayne pick

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:ditto:I would also stay with the stock rollups. The power window wiring harness would have to be removed from the donor suburban in tact and might prove frustrating. It runs under the carpet and of course up through the door pillars. I was going to try this with my S15 Jimmy, the effort didn't justify the result for me in having to tear apart two vehicles.2cents
 

gijoe

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Any of the doors from that vintage of the c/k series will fit. Swapping the components isnt to hard. The hardest thing will be hooking up the power to the new power windows and adding a switch but that shouldnt be to difficult. Make shure you add an inline fuse.

Goodluck.
By the way they will all fit but 73-76 use different door panels, also vent glass are different on 73-80 years.
 

MarcusOReallyus

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I need one new door, and the other isn't in great shape, so I've toyed with this idea myself.

There was a thread here where someone mentioned he'd done this and really liked the result. He didn't go into detail but he made it sound like no big deal.

If you have a good understanding of electricity, it should not be difficult, and you don't have to have the whole original harness. It shouldn't be difficult to fab one up yourself.

IF you understand electricity.

For me, I'm comfortable with electrcal stuff (it's my bread and butter), which is why I'm considering doing it, but not everybody knows their way around electrical systems.
 

forest522

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Yes, they do fit. I just finished the drivers door swap and will be doing the passenger side door today. I paid $50 for each at a local yard. The donor doors came from a 1984 Suburban and were complete with power windows and locks, rough but clean-able interior panels, complete glass and vent windows with good rubber seals (the best part I was after in the first place).

The install has gone fairly well. I will cover some of the details:

1. Removed everything from doors, cleaned and stowed the electric components for later upgrade. Don't have time now to fully wire the windows and locks into my M1009. Need to get her on the road!

2. After everything was removed, thoroughly clean and degrease with Marine Clean. Strip and removed adhesive goo from pin stripe and lower door moulding.

3. Sand rough areas with 80, work up to full sand with 800.

4. Scuff all surface to be painted (CARC substitute Tan from RAPCO) with the red Scotch brite like pads from local paint shop.

4. Prime and re-sand, wet, with 600 and 800.

5. Paint, rattle can, CARC substitute Tan from RAPCO. Love this stuff. Perfect match to existing paint on truck that is only a month old. Same stuff, but from the gallon mixed with Xylene.

6. The install and alignment: My daughter tighten bolts as I repeatedly checked the rub areas on the door frame. Touch up to be done later... Already had new hinges, pins and bushings from previous attempt at getting old doors to align well. I used large diameter washers on the lower hinge to give the right angle overall and ended up with a good fit. Closes well, still needs to be slammed, but the space all around is right.

7. Use rattle can to touch up scuffed areas during install.

8. Also - I added a 5 1/2 inch strip of undercoating on the lower edge to protect from rocks, etc. And lined the entire interior of door with the SS approved "sound/heat/cold insulation" from the H Depot - the roof repair stuff. Only $17 a roll and looks to be just like the high dollar stuff from SoundMat or something.

Some pics...
 

Attachments

Do you want to make a trip down here to Nc

I need one new door, and the other isn't in great shape, so I've toyed with this idea myself.

There was a thread here where someone mentioned he'd done this and really liked the result. He didn't go into detail but he made it sound like no big deal.

If you have a good understanding of electricity, it should not be difficult, and you don't have to have the whole original harness. It shouldn't be difficult to fab one up yourself.

IF you understand electricity.

For me, I'm comfortable with electrcal stuff (it's my bread and butter), which is why I'm considering doing it, but not everybody knows their way around electrical systems.

Hey Marcus,I have 2 m1009 door shells if you are interested pm me. I live right outside jacksonville nc.:]One has guts with a door panel and the other is just a shell but they are in decent shape.Neither have glass or corner windows.
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
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Thanks, SS, but I think shipping would probably kill me. I'm looking for complete units, too. Still haven't decided if I'm going to go for electric doors or not....
 
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