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Suggestions on cracked oil cooler cover

pitpawten

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My old oil cooler cover had developed several holes in it which I had tried to patch with JB Weld previously, but never held well without leaking.

It looks like corrosion possibly from bad pH coolant or just years of erosion action - I dunno.

20230616_195553.jpg

I had talked to tnj Murray and they had a take off but when I asked them to inspect the corners on the inside they said there was corrosion and almost a similar hole formed : /

I ordered one from eBay and got it yesterday to find this on the inside

20230616_203312.jpg

And the corresponding spot on the outside

20230616_203352.jpg

This looks like something smacked into it at some point.

My questions:

1. I haven't read of anybody else with this part failing but this makes three for me that have had issues am I just a magnet?
2. Do I bother taking this one to somebody who can TIG it back together or try finding another one?
 

87cr250r

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JB Weld can work. You didn't clean it well enough. Repair it from the inside. Gouge our the crack just like you would if you were welding it.
 

pitpawten

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JB Weld can work. You didn't clean it well enough. Repair it from the inside. Gouge our the crack just like you would if you were welding it.
Yeah my initial thought was that it should do the trick but my poor results before put me off a bit.

Got a recommendation on a local Fab shop I might see if they can knock it out as a walk-in else I might dip my toe back into the JB weld.

The irony is that I've got a nice big TIG machine with AC/DC pulse etc but haven't spent any time on aluminum so can't even use it : /
 

87cr250r

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If you do weld it, the first pass is going to look like garbage. It floats all of the gunk to the surface. Grind it down and run another pass and all will be good.

If yo go the epoxy route you need to be able to wash the part. Caustic degreasers can be rinsed off with water. Once it's clean, grind or sand all areas you want the epoxy to adhere to bright shiny metal. Apply the epoxy as quickly as you can after exposing the shiny metal.

Be aware, epoxies exposed to water typically have lower temperature limits (usually 120°F when exposed to water) so check that product data sheet.

Belzona 1111 is the bee's knees if you can get your hands on it.
 

pitpawten

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So the TM calls for testing the oil cooler itself (slight topic change from the cover) to 150 psi.

Screenshot_20230618_162104_Adobe Acrobat.jpg

This seems like overkill given that the oil pressure is never above (or near) 100 psi. I feel like testing it to 150 psi risks damaging am old and hard to obtain part unnecessarily.

My thought is to test to 75 psi or roughly 20% over normal operating pressure (assuming 60 for normal).
 

rustystud

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Woodinville, Washington
So the TM calls for testing the oil cooler itself (slight topic change from the cover) to 150 psi.

View attachment 900032

This seems like overkill given that the oil pressure is never above (or near) 100 psi. I feel like testing it to 150 psi risks damaging am old and hard to obtain part unnecessarily.

My thought is to test to 75 psi or roughly 20% over normal operating pressure (assuming 60 for normal).
Your oil pressure starts at 100 to 120 PSI then is lowered by a pressure regulator. You can have that same pressure in the oil cooler if there is a problem with the regulator.
I have two oil pressure gauges on my dash so I can monitor my engines performance at all times. One is on the high pressure side, the other on the low side. If I get a spike in the low side I know something is up. My truck on start-up reaches 120 PSI on the high side, then slowly rests at around 90 to 100 PSI.
So test your cooler like the TM says.
 

pitpawten

Active member
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Centreville, Maryland
Your oil pressure starts at 100 to 120 PSI then is lowered by a pressure regulator. You can have that same pressure in the oil cooler if there is a problem with the regulator.
I have two oil pressure gauges on my dash so I can monitor my engines performance at all times. One is on the high pressure side, the other on the low side. If I get a spike in the low side I know something is up. My truck on start-up reaches 120 PSI on the high side, then slowly rests at around 90 to 100 PSI.
So test your cooler like the TM says.
Great info here and proving again to trust the TM (and those guys with more experience)

👍
 

pitpawten

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Centreville, Maryland
IMHO I'd just keep looking and find a suitable replacement. I might have one actually.
@patracy that's my preference but the only other ones available that I know of (2x) are also in used and similar unknown state for $300 plus.

If you have a known good one that you're willing to part with and could get to Maryland 21617 by the end of this week, I'd love to get you some money for it.
 

patracy

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Don't know the internal shape of it, but it looks good externally. 20230619_151610.jpg

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

pitpawten

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Location
Centreville, Maryland
Don't know the internal shape of it, but it looks good externally. View attachment 900067

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
That looks like it and given the fact that the paint isn't peeling on the outside makes me think that coolant was not leaking through.

If you think you can get that here by the end of the week let me know what I need to do, I super appreciate your quick responses as I'm hustling before the 4th o_O
 

patracy

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That looks like it and given the fact that the paint isn't peeling on the outside makes me think that coolant was not leaking through.

If you think you can get that here by the end of the week let me know what I need to do, I super appreciate your quick responses as I'm hustling before the 4th o_O
I will pull it off now. Send me a message with your info. I've got to go into the office tomorrow. But I can drop it off at a drop location sometime during the day tomorrow.
 

ToddJK

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There's usually someone here on the site that has that one part you need and definitely can be a life saver.
 
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