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tatra 813 new owner
- Thread starter tatra813
- Start date
Big pics on my page (to save upload and bandwidth on here):
http://www.ladnet.org/~dunc/tatra/
Im still trying to start the thing
Got some smoke coming out of the exhaust but diesel is not igniting. I located the pre-heater switch but it does nothing as far as I can see. Maybe someone can explain their starting procedures to me?
http://www.ladnet.org/~dunc/tatra/
Im still trying to start the thing
Got some smoke coming out of the exhaust but diesel is not igniting. I located the pre-heater switch but it does nothing as far as I can see. Maybe someone can explain their starting procedures to me?Last saturday in England before I bought it. But that was when jumpstarting with a big tractor. It's a big step from a tractor to the 2 old starter engines that havent been used for well over 10 years. Need to get some heat in the beast I guess, but haven't gotten the glowplugs to work yet.
Ha, got it to run today. Start pilot did it. Well, there's a little tray under the to put some petrol in, and that goes to the air intake near the engine. Brilliantly simple.
Next up is to find out how to switch between high and low gearing, and how to operate the winch
Also noticed some bad air leaks, its building up brake pressure, but the main system (I think thats what the indicator means) doesn't go over 3 bar.
Next up is to find out how to switch between high and low gearing, and how to operate the winch
Also noticed some bad air leaks, its building up brake pressure, but the main system (I think thats what the indicator means) doesn't go over 3 bar.
Last edited:
EZFEED
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Wow nice 813's guys!
Hey Tatra813, (and other 813 owners too!)
what oil are you putting in your injection pump? Is yours a MotorPal pump with 12 outlets or are you running two 6 outlet pumps?
Here is the IP from my T-912-2 in my Jesterka, I've been putting straight 30HD in it with a tablespoon of Lucas additive.
Running Shell 15-40W in the crankcase with a gallon of Lucas as well.
Hey Tatra813, (and other 813 owners too!)
what oil are you putting in your injection pump? Is yours a MotorPal pump with 12 outlets or are you running two 6 outlet pumps?
Here is the IP from my T-912-2 in my Jesterka, I've been putting straight 30HD in it with a tablespoon of Lucas additive.
Running Shell 15-40W in the crankcase with a gallon of Lucas as well.
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EZFEED
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There is an English manual for the 813. I know this because I have run across it in my search for one for the PV3S which my truck is built on. I have the english manual for the PV3S as well as the Czech and I would recommend that you have both on hand as well because the Czech manual has much better and more detailed illustrations and goes more into the specifics of what you can use as well as alternatives. Also there is more multifuel specifics in the original Czech version that you can translate and find out.Ha, got it to run today. Start pilot did it. Well, there's a little tray under the to put some petrol in, and that goes to the air intake near the engine. Brilliantly simple.
Next up is to find out how to switch between high and low gearing, and how to operate the winch
Also noticed some bad air leaks, its building up brake pressure, but the main system (I think thats what the indicator means) doesn't go over 3 bar.
Small (phone quality) movie here
You can find the manuals (export manuals) from the Czech Technical Library in Prague
http://aleph.stk.cz/F?func=find-b-0&local_base=stk#
as well as the National Library http://www.nkp.cz/
Also there is a Dilenska Prirucka for the 813 driveline and engine online somewhere that is broken up into sections and hosted as PDF files. I dont remember where exactly but I'm sure you can do a search and find them.
Whoa! That's getting me lost in tons of czech pages, I found the manuals (I think) but its library references only. Or am I missing digitalized downloads somewhere? Thanks for the tip anyway, all I got so far is offers of photocopies of the manual for about $200.
EZFEED
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You can locate the book using the search functions there then do a inter-library loan and borrow it here to make photocopies of.
I'll see if I can locate the online Czech manual then post some links here. You may also want to check with some of the UK MV dealers for the English prirucka. Like I said though, it is really condensed. It will be enough to do major and minor repairs but with very few illustrations and no tips or hints sections.
I'll see if I can locate the online Czech manual then post some links here. You may also want to check with some of the UK MV dealers for the English prirucka. Like I said though, it is really condensed. It will be enough to do major and minor repairs but with very few illustrations and no tips or hints sections.
EZFEED
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Here's a little vid for you guys
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wjXf8hwwnow&feature=channel[/media]
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wjXf8hwwnow&feature=channel[/media]
Jinx
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That video is amazing Ezfeed. Thanks for posting that.
tatra813
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- Washougal Wa
Good to hear you got it running
As far as I know there is not preheater as you said? I know there are no glow plugs, its direct ignition. I always pull the choke and it fires up even in very cold weather. I have used Ether if the batteries were low.
Never drive it with low batterys, the generator doesnt do very well charging dead batteries, charge them with a charger first.
Second if the batteries are low and the generator doesnt have enough voltager for excitation they wont charge and you will be driving and all of a sudden it will feel like it came out of gear but it is still in gear. What has happened is the Neutral selenoid (used when the winch is engaged) doesnt have enough power (12v) to pull in and it goes into neutral ive learned that the hard way. Just a tip. Keep the batteries charged!!
Check the oil levels everywhere to be safe especially the hubs. turn the wheel so the plug is about mid way unscrew the plug and see if the oil level is about half full (the correct level ) or if it has oil at all. Sitting for 10 years it may have slowly leaked out, so put some in before you regret it.
Most all the bearings you can get at a standard bearing store.
I have lots of spare parts if you need some. I also get lots off of e-bay in Germany and from Tatra dealers in Chz,
The cv axles are a wear item also so keep them lubed with grease, they are not cheap to replace.
Be sure to keep your air tanks drained of water and your system dry, or it will cause problems
There are 2 levers by your right foot next to the seat, one is for engaging the winch, you also have to hit the neutral switch on the right side of steering colum, its the long I think white switch.
The other level is the high /low for the other 10 gears, they are really low and you would never need them unless towing a tank up a 100% grade.
When I first got mine I thought the engine was underpowered, but now that I have really learned to shift correctly I love it and it has plenty of power, the engine is awsome.
The chamber you put petrol in is for cold weather start, they make a jikov cylinder and you pierce it and it helps start in cold weather, but you would have to be really cold to need that. Just pull the choke and turn it on. I put a manual battery shutoff also because over time they tend to drain the battery otherwise, even with the selenoid disconnect .
pop the covers off in the bed and you will see the electric to pnumatic air selenoids, the two on the crossmember by the winch is for the axle lock and the other is for the inter axle lock, spinning 8 tires on this beast is a blast!!. The selenoid by the transmission is the neutral lock selenoid for when you use the winch, Ive thought about putting a manual bypass valve around it to cure the battery issue if you dont have enough power to pull it in and you are stranded.
Good idea to change the oil cooler lines and the brake hoses, fuel lines also, clean out the fuel strainer bowl and order some new filters. that will be a good start to make sure you have no break downs while driving it. The tow bill is expensive, I had to fix these types of things many times on the side of the road, I should have replaced them at the start.
See if the emergency brake works, most Tatras dont. I had to take mine apart and have a local brake place reline the pads and now it works awsome.
When I get some time I will scan in the page that explains all the switches on the dash and what they do.
Get some english manuals from ATT truck and equipment in alaska, he sell forklifts but also has english tatra manuals and believe me they are worth the money and will answer all the questions you have and more. I also have the workshop manuals on c.d.
Make sure you rubber boots on your air intakes under the engine cowl are not cracked and bypassing air from the air filters.
Make sure the rubber boots on the swing axles are good before you get dirt in them and ruin the bearings. I got a lot of them on ebay, but you have to watch consistantly to find them. Or order them from a dealer over there it will save you lots of headaches!!!
The two red switches on the right of the steering column is for the axle lock and the other for the interaxle lock. So basicly the one engages the front two axles and the other one will lock all the axles.
The two on the left are the dome light and the windshield wipers. The long tall switches (stalk switches) is the blinker turn signals and the other is for the headlights.
Good luck
Dean
As far as I know there is not preheater as you said? I know there are no glow plugs, its direct ignition. I always pull the choke and it fires up even in very cold weather. I have used Ether if the batteries were low.Never drive it with low batterys, the generator doesnt do very well charging dead batteries, charge them with a charger first.
Second if the batteries are low and the generator doesnt have enough voltager for excitation they wont charge and you will be driving and all of a sudden it will feel like it came out of gear but it is still in gear. What has happened is the Neutral selenoid (used when the winch is engaged) doesnt have enough power (12v) to pull in and it goes into neutral ive learned that the hard way. Just a tip. Keep the batteries charged!!
Check the oil levels everywhere to be safe especially the hubs. turn the wheel so the plug is about mid way unscrew the plug and see if the oil level is about half full (the correct level ) or if it has oil at all. Sitting for 10 years it may have slowly leaked out, so put some in before you regret it.
Most all the bearings you can get at a standard bearing store.
I have lots of spare parts if you need some. I also get lots off of e-bay in Germany and from Tatra dealers in Chz,
The cv axles are a wear item also so keep them lubed with grease, they are not cheap to replace.
Be sure to keep your air tanks drained of water and your system dry, or it will cause problems
There are 2 levers by your right foot next to the seat, one is for engaging the winch, you also have to hit the neutral switch on the right side of steering colum, its the long I think white switch.
The other level is the high /low for the other 10 gears, they are really low and you would never need them unless towing a tank up a 100% grade.
When I first got mine I thought the engine was underpowered, but now that I have really learned to shift correctly I love it and it has plenty of power, the engine is awsome.
The chamber you put petrol in is for cold weather start, they make a jikov cylinder and you pierce it and it helps start in cold weather, but you would have to be really cold to need that. Just pull the choke and turn it on. I put a manual battery shutoff also because over time they tend to drain the battery otherwise, even with the selenoid disconnect .
pop the covers off in the bed and you will see the electric to pnumatic air selenoids, the two on the crossmember by the winch is for the axle lock and the other is for the inter axle lock, spinning 8 tires on this beast is a blast!!. The selenoid by the transmission is the neutral lock selenoid for when you use the winch, Ive thought about putting a manual bypass valve around it to cure the battery issue if you dont have enough power to pull it in and you are stranded.
Good idea to change the oil cooler lines and the brake hoses, fuel lines also, clean out the fuel strainer bowl and order some new filters. that will be a good start to make sure you have no break downs while driving it. The tow bill is expensive, I had to fix these types of things many times on the side of the road, I should have replaced them at the start.
See if the emergency brake works, most Tatras dont. I had to take mine apart and have a local brake place reline the pads and now it works awsome.
When I get some time I will scan in the page that explains all the switches on the dash and what they do.
Get some english manuals from ATT truck and equipment in alaska, he sell forklifts but also has english tatra manuals and believe me they are worth the money and will answer all the questions you have and more. I also have the workshop manuals on c.d.
Make sure you rubber boots on your air intakes under the engine cowl are not cracked and bypassing air from the air filters.
Make sure the rubber boots on the swing axles are good before you get dirt in them and ruin the bearings. I got a lot of them on ebay, but you have to watch consistantly to find them. Or order them from a dealer over there it will save you lots of headaches!!!
The two red switches on the right of the steering column is for the axle lock and the other for the interaxle lock. So basicly the one engages the front two axles and the other one will lock all the axles.
The two on the left are the dome light and the windshield wipers. The long tall switches (stalk switches) is the blinker turn signals and the other is for the headlights.
Good luck
Dean
Last edited:
tatra813
Member
- 521
- 25
- 18
- Location
- Washougal Wa
Wow nice 813's guys!
Hey Tatra813, (and other 813 owners too!)
what oil are you putting in your injection pump? Is yours a MotorPal pump with 12 outlets or are you running two 6 outlet pumps?
Here is the IP from my T-912-2 in my Jesterka, I've been putting straight 30HD in it with a tablespoon of Lucas additive.
Running Shell 15-40W in the crankcase with a gallon of Lucas as well.
Im using the same oil in my tatra, and yes I put lucas additive in everything also. I have a spare injector pump I got on e-bay also.
I use tranny fluid in the power steering pump
It is 1 injuector pump with 12 outlets. There is a dip stick for measuring the leverl.
If you go back earlier in this thread I wrote all the oils the manual called for which is hard to figure out and there was some good feedback on what to use with it being a air cooled motor.
tatra813
Member
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- Washougal Wa
Get the manuals from the guy in Alaska they are like inch and a half thick way too much to try to photocopy, they have a operational manual that explains how to use everything and also goes over a lot of maintenance, some repairs and oiles etc, it teaches you the correct way to drive under different conditions, correct way to shift, a lot of the motor specs etc. The second book is also very thick and it has all the parts breakdowns and part numbers which you NEED if you order any parts overseas. I paid a guy $250 for all the workshop manuals on c.d. which have been helpful also all in english which is the hard part to find.
tatra813
Member
- 521
- 25
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- Washougal Wa
Big pics on my page (to save upload and bandwidth on here):
http://www.ladnet.org/~dunc/tatra/
Im still trying to start the thing
Just a thought, the only time I have ever had a hard time starting is when I changed the fuel filters and had air in the lines, there is a manual pump at the fuel pump to prime the lines, I could never get the lines primed finally found a hairline crack in the fuel line at the tank, it wouldnt leak fuel but it would suck air in, another tell tell sign ist eratic speed at idle. May think of automatically saving your self a headach and running new fuel lines.
tatra813
Member
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- Washougal Wa
One more tip, we dont have much for metric hoses or fittings in the U.S. so if you take your hoses to a rubber/hose shop they can take the ends (fittings) off of your existing hoses, braze a new nipple onto it and put a standard hose.
You probably have access to metric hoses but may be not the fittings.
You probably have access to metric hoses but may be not the fittings.
tatra813
Member
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- Washougal Wa
One more thing the fuel tanks tend to rust from the inside out and be paperthin and may burst at any time. Ive heard some bad stories, mine all are fine but check it out just in case.
The Y connection in the exhaust behind the cab tends to fall apart also keep an eye on it.
sorry for the fast replies and bad spelling im in a rush and just trying to fill you in on all the stuff I ran into and had nobody to help me with.
see ya
Dean
The Y connection in the exhaust behind the cab tends to fall apart also keep an eye on it.
sorry for the fast replies and bad spelling im in a rush and just trying to fill you in on all the stuff I ran into and had nobody to help me with.
see ya
Dean
mbarber84
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Sweeeeet Tatra! nice purchase!! Best wishes for many successful 8 wheeling adventures!
EZFEED
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Quoted for truth!
The tanks on my truck were eaten up. They werent bad but if I had left them the way they were they would have burst a long time ago. The metal really isn't that thick on these tanks so I would recommend that you line them even if they are still nice inside just as a preventative measure.
I took mine and strapped each to a wheel on my tractor and threw in a quart of muratic acid and a handful of gravel (little pieces and all). Do a little low speed churning and the insides will look like they are chrome plated. Blow them out with compressed air then line with a liner like the one offered by www.por15.com They make an AWESOME liner and rust preventative and their liners will not flake off.
You can also use the regular POR-15 coating inside your air tanks. Do the same above then pour some in the tank and slosh it around. The stuff dries but remains flexible and will stretch and contract with the tank as it pressurizes, its sort of like a liquid plastic. Good for springs and other moving undercarriage parts. My trucks springs have been treated with this for 10 years now and have not flaked or rusted yet.