Terminus M1009

cucvrus

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DSCF6635.jpgDSCF6636.jpgDSCF6637.jpgDSCF6638.jpgDSCF6640.jpgDSCF6641.jpgDSCF6643.jpgDSCF6642.jpgToday was the day to start the rear main seal replacement on terminus m1009. I noticed it had a slight leak while wheeling at Rausch Creek and I wanted to get it fixed. I had spoken to the guy that bought the M1009 from me 20 years ago and he could not remember ever putting a starter on it. After getting under it and taking the starter off. I think it may be the original starter. I see the closed nose and the Delco Remy case and solenoid. It also has the seal on the solenoid to starter nose. the bolts were very tight as was the support bracket. Everything was perfect under there. very rare I see trucks with everything perfect when I buy them. After the filthy oil drained out and continued to trickle and blow in the wind I began removing the oil pan bolts. I quickly tired of the oil bath string so I called off for the day and left it sit with the drain plug pulled. It is in great shape under side considering I wheeled it very hard several times. Tomorrow is another day. After Church we shall get at it again.
 

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cucvrus

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ssdvc
I had a very nice visit from Scott yesterday. I showed him a few of my work in progress and 1 of my completed CUCV M1009's that after all my hard efforts, blood and sweat the owner wants to sell. He likes other vehicles and the M1009 just sits in the weather. I suggested he sell it and he was game for that. Thank you for the visit Scott it is great to meet people the same age as me that have the same ideas and hobby. No grouch that complains about everything. Have a great day.
 

ssdvc

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LOL! Thanks Rick ! I love to visit and take a look at all the work you have accomplished and continue to accomplish. I am constantly amazed and impressed at not only your collection of vehicles, pieces and parts, but your in-depth knowledge and meticulous attention to detail. When you work something, you don't take shortcuts and there is no worrying about it. Plus, the innovative stuff you come up with and execute on these CUCV's (not to mention your tractor !) are really something else. Great ideas and followthrough.

That other truck is so clean, rust free and dry it has to be seen to be believed. Tough choice between that and the one tucked away in the barn.

Nope, nothing to complain about at all. I will touch base in a few days, after I liquor up and sweet talk the wife a bit more.

Scott
 

cucvrus

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DSCF6644.jpgDSCF6652.jpgDSCF6651.jpgDSCF6650.jpgDSCF6649.jpgDSCF6648.jpgDSCF6647.jpgDSCF6646.jpgDSCF6645.jpgDSCF6653.jpgToday was the day to get the rear main seal changed. Everything went well. I found a few areas that need some attention. A thin lower radiator hose. I think that happened when a stick was jammed in the fan and went around a few times before I stopped the engine and cut it out. I was looking up at the glow plugs. They are old and have been in this truck for a long time. it still starts every time in the first revolution so I will not mess with them. If it ain't broke why fix it. I will post more later. i hope I am not boring you. Tis the season to start cranking again. Only I have several non CUCV related projects started at this time. The Cadillac was listed as a CUC/V when I bought it. But we won't go there again.
 

cucvrus

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DSCF6655.jpgDSCF6662.jpgDSCF6661.jpgDSCF6660.jpgDSCF6659.jpgDSCF6658.jpgDSCF6657.jpgDSCF6656.jpgDSCF6654.jpgDSCF6663.jpgAs you can see I had some water in the oil. i heard the tap instantly and shut the engine off. Everything is going well. I am going to put my oil pan and flywheel cover in the heated parts washer overnight. I have the new seal in place. I am undecided on the new oil pump or just put the old one back on. Survey says.
 

cucvrus

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DSCF6665.jpgDSCF6666.jpgDSCF6664.jpgDSCF6667.jpgThese are the new parts from Autozone. Felpro is good parts. i always hear on here that people don't like Autozone. I am fine with the quality and price. More pictures later.
 

cucvrus

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DSCF6667.jpgDSCF6668.jpgDSCF6669.jpgDSCF6670.jpgDSCF6671.jpgI have decided to reassemble the engine and keep the OEM oil pump. It had 50 lbs at idle when cold and was at 25-30 when warm. I looked at the main bearings and they are good. If it ain't broke don't fix it came to mind again. I am not on an unlimited budget. I have other projects that need funding. I will roll with the original. The rear main seal is a piece of cake to install. So if your leaks only once it is time to change it. I used the bungee straps to hold the cooler lines out of my way. I also dropped the left exhaust pipe in lieu of removing the transmission cooler lines. I had already replaced the cooler lines right after I made this purchase. Someone had cut into them and installed an auxiliary cooler. I put the auxiliary cooler on the auxiliary scrap pile. I had no faith in the rubber cooler lines. Thanks for looking and I hope all is well. Have a great day. I will reassemble tomorrow. I am sending the starter to the re-builder. That I will do because I am not sure of it's over all condition.
 

cucvrus

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I'd definitely change the pump since you are already in there that far.
So it made a racket when the oil and water started to mix?
Good job so far,
.
I am sure it was leaking oil thru the rear main seal. It was leaking oil when parked in the parking lot at Rausch Creek. I know that is where the water was getting in. I have sediment in the flywheel cover. This will make it more trail worthy. Any more improvements I will post pictures. Looks like I am going to be changing the spring bushings they are beat.
 

cpf240

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When you do one of these two-piece rear main seals, where to you locate the joints? It seems to me that if the joints were even with the mounting surface, that it could leak there. Or am I over-thinking this and it just really doesn't matter?
 

cucvrus

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Get the joints anywhere but at the same spot as the cap joint. I learned the hard way 30 years ago on one of these. I put the joints on the cap and up in the block. the rear main seal has an outside side to the seal. Easy to install once you get everything apart. I tend to take a long time putting it back together because I clean everything and paint it. Even on this truck. Someone may want to buy this Terminus M1009.
 

cucvrus

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your already in there, me personally it would bother me at night if I put it back together without just changing it out.
In a high mileage engine, low oil pressure is often due to a combination of worn main and rod bearings and crankshaft journals. The oil pump itself does not create pressure. It produces flow and the resistance to that flow produces pressure. Resistance is created by the orifices in the engine block through which the oil flows, and the amount of clearance between the bearings and crankshaft journals. As the bearings wear, clearances increase allowing increased flow which reduces pressure.
This is a rule that I always live with when I open up an engine and change seals and gaskets on oil pans and other engines that I access the oil pump. I feel confident in the original parts and oil pump it any engine that was just being disassembled for an oil leak. I only replaced the rear main seal in hundreds of engines and never replaced an oil pump. I guess it was after doing rear main seals on many 2.8 GM V6 6.2 diesels and other engines and just doing the rear main seal and calling it fixed. It seemed to work. The rope seal was the thing at the time and is still available. i use the neoprene seals. Not sure of the benefits of the rope seal. Seems antiquated to me. As far as the pump goes. This engine was very clean and had get oil pressure. So NO pump was added.
 

cucvrus

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16 hours in the parts cleaner tank and the tan CARC paint is still on the oil pan. I set it to soak a few more days and I will reassemble when I get the starter back from the re-builder. I am still convinced that it has the original starter on it. I have all the other parts green and ready for installation. The oil pan I want to look good even for Terminus M1009. Any job worth doing is worth the extra effort to do right the first time. Even muddy new paint and parts look good. They look like new after every pressure washing. I will stay the course. Everything has been a breeze thus far. he hardest part of the dis-assembly was the transmission cooler lines and 2 bungee strap fixed that issue. And the M8 nut that held the dip stick tube to the exhaust stud. An oxygen acetylene torch helped get that nut off. No I did not burn it off. I heated it cherry red and removed it with a 1/2" wrench. I know it is 13MM but 1/2" is 12.7MM just enough to get it off after 30 years of heat and degradation of the steel. Have a great day. More work in store for this evening.
 

cucvrus

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DSCF6672.jpgDSCF6673.jpgI was painting some tractor and plow parts in the shop tonight so instead of wasting the paint I used it to paint the oil pan for Terminus M1009. I like it. It was like recycling a product and re-purposing it instead of discarding it. Red paint is very expensive. DSCF6674.jpgDSCF6675.jpgI left the flywheel cover soak in the parts tank for 2 days. I then sprayed it with Krylon Dull Aluminum paint. That paint is great on the intake/coolant manifold and vacuum pump. Any aluminum item looks good with this paint. I painted my transmission that I put in the Mule with this paint.002.jpg006.jpgBefore paint. And after the cleaning/rebuild and application of the Krylon Dull Aluminum paint. 007.jpg008.jpgAlso worked great on painting the transfer case.
 

cucvrus

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I wanted to post these part numbers for anyone that would like to replace the oil pump on the 6.2 diesel while they have apart during a rear main seal replacement. I chose to NOT replace mine. I have great oil pressure.
The Oil Pump is a Melling part # M-551 current price is $49.99 and warranted for 1 year.
The Oil Pump Pick up tube / screen is Melling part # 246S current price is $16.99 also warranted for 1 year.
The Oil Pump how it works:
A mechanical pump assembly driven by the engine that pumps oil throughout the oiling system.
CONTRARY to popular belief, oil pumps do not create oil pressure, only flow. The tight clearances throughout the engine creates oil pressure.

Symptoms of a defective pump:
A worn oil pump or stuck open by-pass valve would decrease the flow of oil which could result in low oil pressure.
Most times oil pressure is bad because of other internal engine wear and issues. Bearings?
 

Another Ahab

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I picked up my re-built starter today. Complete re-build was $130. Not bad. I know it was re-built by a reputable re-builder and have been using the same shop for 25+ years.
I never rebuilt a starter, but between the parts (and knowing what to order and where to get them), and the headache of pulling it apart (and then properly mending it back together), that seems like a fair cost.

Do they give you any kind of a warranty?
 
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