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No, copper work hardens, which means eventually the cable will break(from the continual bending of opening and closing the gate). I would go to Home Depot, I am pretty sure they sell coated cable which would work, but actual cables can't be too bad in price can it?View attachment 584831View attachment 584830I have a few of the thread on battery cable ends and decided to make a few tailgate cables for Terminus M1009. I used 2 gauge negative cable. Do you think it will hold up to the bending. I know it is strong I hooked it up and towed a truck with it. What do you think?
I used my Mule as a template for my design. The braces will be mounted to the back side of the rear corner posts and attach to the rear body mount bolt. I will remove the rear body bolts and put new longer ones in and use a small short reinforcement for the second bolt. That should give it plenty of support and really not interfere with the rear cargo area since the fuel can and spare tire are not allowing the use of the side area any way. what do you think? Any ideas? I am going to run a 4" x1/4" flat bar across the rear floor to attach the angle braces to and add extra support to the floor anchor areas.


I picked up Terminus M1009 at the exhaust shop today. Much better sound. It still has foul smells coming from the exhaust like it is burning bad fuel. I changed the fuel filter cartridge and it runs much better. It has RED fuel in it BAD BAD. I had them run it back in stock form and stock mufflers except they jumped up to 2 1/2" pipe at my request. I am getting it ready for Rausch Creek in 2 weeks. I have a lot of updates to do so I am going to get started.
I must tell the truth. The battery cable gate support idea was a failure after I ran it thru the tests. I did not trust to have the gate open and sit on it. I had one fail at the jam nut after about 50 openings. I scrapped

that idea. It was worth the effort and I tried. I just put a set of used cables and guides on that I had in a storage bin. 

I started to work on repairing the rear gate. Amazing everything still works as designed. A bit sloppy and loose but none the less still functional. I added the crank handle to the driver and then decided to strip the gate out for more repairs and some welding. Check out that crank assembly. That is a true survivor. The lock and clutch are still operational. I will clean it up good paint it and then lube it.









I removed the rear window and then found the sash was bent away from the glass from jamming in the worn out guide tracks. At that point I decided to remove the sash and clean it and get all the rust out of the sash channel. I used the urethane adhesive and clamped it back in place after a straightened the sash. Without the clamps the sash was still pulling away from being bent and twisted. I polished the guides on the end of the sash and I will paint the sash tomorrow after the adhesive drys. I used a small scraper and a wire wheel along with several 2" roloc discs to clean the sash channel. then I heated it good with a torch and dried it well. Washed it with wax and grease remover and the urethane adhesive will last longer then the rubber jam type they used. This gate was full of broken glass as most M1009's have been thru several rear windows during the service time.



As you can see the rear gates are always a mess inside. I have several pounds of broken glass and dirt inside this one. No wonder they rust out and cause issues. I am going to overhaul this gate over the next week. I removed the side guide tracks and cleaned all the remaining felts from the tracks with the small grinder and the torch. They were nice and clean and I glued some new style channel in the track for a guide. It was an inexpensive repair and saved buying the $100. set of guide tracks. 


Hopefully this is helpful to someone. I know the gates are an expensive item to repair. I am going to just weld and rebuild this gate. i have some 12 gauge galvaneal panels cut to glue and weld onto the gate. I have a new top piece to weld on to get some strength back into the upper gate assembly
I am also working on getting some strength and reinforcements into the rear gate opening. I want to avoid the imploding rear like a lot of Blazers get from the decaying rear cross member. I would like to make a new rear threshold and cross member out of 1/4" steel tread plate and steel channel. I will work on that. I will be welding this and bolting it together. I will be doing this as a permanent addition to this unit.
It has been expired from inspection since July 2004. As I expected it has been putting around on a lot for the past 11 years. thus the poor running and excessive smoking during the first 10 miles at 55 + MPH. It cleared up some but the exhaust still has the smell of bad fuel. 
I removed the expired license plate that I have been driving on and removed the license plate bracket. I am going to be returning it to the scrap pile and attaching a pintle hook assembly in the original place. Thank you for looking. I hope I am not boring you. I am having a blast on these projects. this is a low budget build. I did most things with material and parts I have laying around. I really enjoy doing that. Man that rear gate is ugly. I will improve on that. Stay tuned.Me and dad where talking about this thread (he isn't a member) and he thought that they might be putting on cats is why the job cost so much. We thought that since they have inspection up there cats might be required or something.No why would they?