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TH400 and Rebuilding Options

JDC1009

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Denver, Colorado
I am rebuilding my TH400 from a m1009 and am wanting to get some input on the subject. No forum in here discusses the Differences in Rebuild kits and what would be mainly recommended to use for a stock 6.2 application.

I have done a bit of research and finding some conflicting opinions on what kits are recommended.

I've read that Alto Red clutches are awesome and a waste of money... A few guys say the stock tan discs are more then adequate. Any Opinions?

I've read the heat transfer from the upgraded Kolene steels is not optimum either...


I also upon pulling the TH400 down and looking at it found it is not the HD TH400 which is disappointing. Would it be worth trying to find the HD case for the rebuild or do a cheap rebuild and in the future swap it with the HD TH400?

Obviously I like the idea of upgraded parts in the Monster in a Box kits but not so much the cost. If its not worth doing the rebuild in the non-HD case I have I would maybe rather do a cheaper rebuild 150 - 200 kit range and just get her driving again.

Any ideas and experience is greatly appreciated
 

Jersey4x4

Member
298
1
18
Location
Absecon, NJ
I went with the blue plate special clutches, HD 28 roller sprague and upgraded planets and the case protector which is required for any case even the HD case and a 6 pad converter for the diesel. You dont realy have alot of hp with the 6.2 so you dont need to go crazy. The only thing I wish I did was the ratio change but for my case of the M1008 it was needed but I dont think you would need it in an 09. I also did the ORD Doubler at the same time because I needed the extra low range and front disconnect ability on the fly for my uses.
 

JDC1009

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Location
Denver, Colorado
I've heard bad things about the Blue Plates... Have you had the rebuild for long and had any issues? I want an upgraded sprague for the torque output. Did you happen to do any of the drilling in the restricter plate for harder 2-3 shifting? Also does anyone know if a 3 pad torque converter will work okay?
 

Jersey4x4

Member
298
1
18
Location
Absecon, NJ
I had the blues in a previous build with a 383 stroker and they were great. I have been running the 400 doubler in the 08 for about a year I guess and no problems at all. I did not drill anything, I did some spring changes and gov upgrades all using OEM parts just not necessarily from the 1008 application. I did have a 3 pad in the truck when I got it and it removed the flywheel very efficiently within the first 3 months. There is no real price difference from the 3 to 6 pad converters so I just figured I would go with the correct one. I do run synthetic fluid and change it often to prevent problems.
 

Jersey4x4

Member
298
1
18
Location
Absecon, NJ
I dont think a higher stall will be any benifit or be good for the diesel application unless you are racing in a realy worked truck. The higher stall means the truck wont move until a higher Rpm is reached. Used commonly in lopy race engines with auto trans to prevent the hickup effect at traffic lights

I dont understand the Torque converter stall? Ive heard that a higher stall is better for diesel engines... any opinions?
 

Jersey4x4

Member
298
1
18
Location
Absecon, NJ
from what I have read you can use a th350 converter to get it to hook up sooner with less slip but I dont think that will handle the torque
 

JDC1009

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Location
Denver, Colorado
Yeah, I think I will get a comparable to stock converter since I think I will just do a close to stock rebuild kit. I have read on jakesperformance.com that there are a few mods. I might consider the 2-3 hard shift mod but not remove the damper spring and not do the other (full 1st gear control) mod. I really want to do this work on a HD TH400 case and then I would go all out but I cant justify it.
 

JDC1009

New member
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Location
Denver, Colorado
I am still unsure what the cause of my failure was. What would cause the silencer composite ring to start disentigrating? Also the damper solenoid housing (some sort of composite) on the valve body was broke and fell off after unbolting. I heard a whining very faint which I suspect is the torque converter. Would a faulty converter cause too low of pressure to collapse and lock the clutch plates as the rpm progressed? The pump moves freely but I need to feeler check the gear spacing....
 

jj

New member
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Location
Kutztown,PA
There is a company that makes what they call a "low-drag planetary set" for the th-400 and the 4L80e. Try www.tci-auto.com. The set also has the advantage of lower ratios: 2.75 first; 1.57 second; and 1:1 first. They may also have a 2.97:1 first gear now, too. I have not looked in a while. A little pricey, though, as i recall. But, it would make the 1009 axle gears take off better. The math works out to the same overall first gear ratio as 3.42 axles and the standard 2.48:1 first gear in the TH-400. Probably a noticeable difference.
 
Last edited:

Jersey4x4

Member
298
1
18
Location
Absecon, NJ
Mine was whining and it ended up being a clogged filter with fine clutch material and the pump was making the whine. i did not let it go more the a few miles before sucking the fluid out and changing the filter but I could not get any fluid to flow through it even in the parts washer. After i installed the new filter the noise went away and the thing shifted better. maybe yours did the same and overheated the trans? mine Still did not shift from first in the cold but now with the rebuild it is fine. We found dried out lip seals in the drum and causing fluid bypass and no shift until it warmed up and softened the seals up a bit. I guess was caused by sitting and all the fluid ran to the pan and the seals were dray for a few years before I got the truck. the TCI planets were what I was going to get but just did not have the extra cash after getting the ORD kit.

I am still unsure what the cause of my failure was. What would cause the silencer composite ring to start disentigrating? Also the damper solenoid housing (some sort of composite) on the valve body was broke and fell off after unbolting. I heard a whining very faint which I suspect is the torque converter. Would a faulty converter cause too low of pressure to collapse and lock the clutch plates as the rpm progressed? The pump moves freely but I need to feeler check the gear spacing....
 
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