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The M1031 with 5" lift, 12-bolt H1's and no spacers build!

tvguy

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When I got it home everything seemed to be there except the missing starter, and I noticed the flexplate was missing some teeth. So, I pulled the transmission and transfer case to replace the flexplate. While I had everything out I replaced all the seals and fluids and went ahead and did a fixed yoke swap on the 205. And of course I had to replace the rear driveshaft since it had a really nice curve to it . . .
 

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tvguy

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I rebuilt the steering column and did a 12-volt conversion as well and was happily surprised when I turned the key for the first time and she fired right up! Then I started concentrating on the interior: new dash, new window felt and seals, reupholstered the seat, replaced the heater core and generally cleaned everything up. Replaced all the shocks on all four corners too.
 

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tvguy

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I had an M1010 box too and took both to the scrapyard. Both boxes weighed 1,940 lbs and I got .55 cents a pound for "irony aluminum" for a total payday of $1,067 . . . not too shabby! (sorry for the cell phone pick)
 

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tvguy

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So here's the plan:

FRONT
4" Tuff Country HD springs on the front with Zero Rates

ORD HD front shackles, ORD FUSH kit, ORD extended brake lines.

Completely rebuilt Dana 60 with dually outers, 35-spline shafts, 4.56's and a Lockrite.

AGR 2WD steering box (ported) with ORD HD crossover steering. ORD weld-on frame repair kit.

REAR
ORD 4" Shackle flip, Super Shackles with greasable bushings, U-bolt flip, extended brake lines.

Dana 70HD rear (from a mid 80's dually) with SRW hubs (this makes the axle wider to match the DRW front and eliminates the need for spacers when running the 12-bolt Hummer wheels), 4.56's with a Detroit Locker, U-bolt flip.

New Tuff Country shocks all around.

I'll probably run the stock 37's on the 12-bolt Hummer wheels since I already have them, but I'd like to run 35's later on. Here are some pics of the finished 60 . . .
 

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Now you have the dually hubs on the Dana 60, what is the WMS? Also, what is the WMS on that SRW Dana 70HD... Did you keep the PTO once you got rid of the utility box? What will you use it for if you did? (and if you removed it and still have it/want to sell it drop me a line - I need to replace the whole PTO setup in my 1031 after it was removed by a previous owner...)
 
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tvguy

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Duluth, GA
Now you have the dually hubs on the Dana 60, what is the WMS? Also, what is the WMS on that SRW Dana 70HD... Did you keep the PTO once you got rid of the utility box? What will you use it for if you did? (and if you removed it and still have it/want to sell it drop me a line - I need to replace the whole PTO setup in my 1031 after it was removed by a previous owner...)
DRW Dana 60 = 77"

Dana 70HD with SRW hubs = 77 1/2"

The PTO is still in the truck . . . just haven't had a chance to remove it. Not sure what it's worth so PM me an offer.
 

tvguy

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Looks good man what did that drive shaft and fixed yoke run you I wanna do that to mine
I had a "parts" 205 that I robbed the fixed yoke output from. I know JB Conversions sells new conversion kits but you may be able to find them a little cheaper used on ebay.

My shaft came from Carolina Driveline. It's been a while since I bought it but IIRC it was around $350.
 

tvguy

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I notice you thinned out the outer part of the D70HD axel - was that easier do you think than enlarging the plates for the disc conversion to fit a 4" axel?

I just cut off the backing plate tabs and ground them down smooth . . . I really didn't take that much material off.

While the axle tubes are 4" they neck down closer to 3.5" towards the spindles, so I used the 3.5" weld-on brackets from Ruff Stuff Specialties and they worked fine.
 
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