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The RIGHT way to install a Solargizer...

combat jump

Member
143
4
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Location
Raleigh, NC
Inspired by others' installations of this battery life-extending device, I wanted to put one on my M1028.

After searching and reading all there is on this site, I found a 24V version on eBay for about the same price as a 12 year old bottle of McCallan Scotch.

I waited until after I painted my truck before installing the system. I wanted a clean, purposeful military look, so it was to be out in the open. I found a spot on the hood that has no reinforcing metal underneath, and measured to drill.

The first thing to do upon opening the Solargizer package is to locate the baggie full of installation hardware... and throw that away. Seriously, why include only two stainless steel screws to attach the solar cell, when it requires 4? And the screws are too short to go through both the cell, and any mounting surface with enough threads to attach a nut. And no nuts, are included, either.

A quick trip to Ace Hardware, and I had 4 1" stainless nuts, bolts, fender washers and lock washers. I also picked up a rubber grommet for the wire pass through that would accommodate the thickest part, near the solar cell. I wanted the least amount of wire visible above the mounting point. I also got a tube of black silicone sealant to make sure water didn't find its way into the drilled mounting holes. Finally, I used some wire protecting wrap on the leads running under the hood.

I marked, the drilled bolt holes for the electronics box on the inside right fender. Punch-outs enable you to back the bolts with nuts for a secure mount.

I attached the red lead to the positive bus bar on the firewall, and the black lead to the farthest battery terminal (negative side). Although I shortened the length of the wire between the solar cell and the electronics box, I did not alter the length between the electronics box and the batteries. The instructions warn against doing this.

Holding a 300 watt lamp above the solar cell causes the red LED on the electronics box to glow.

So, that's it! It looks like issue equipment, seems to work, and is a tidy installation.
 

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Sharecropper

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Paris KY
Nice work Combat. Could you post a photo of the buss bar connection? Not sure which one.

Thanks.
 

Brad M

New member
100
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Location
Belmont NC
I have on installed on my Gen trailer but my red light does not glow anymore so does that mean its not working?
Here is a brief red light legend for the Solargizer

Red light on solid = working at full strength (full sunshine on solar panel)
Red light blinking = working at partial strength (shaded or partial sun)
Red light off = not working (dark out, hooked up wrong, dead)

hope that helps
 

combat jump

Member
143
4
18
Location
Raleigh, NC
Nice work Combat. Could you post a photo of the buss bar connection? Not sure which one.

Thanks.
Can't take a photo now, but here's some info: Follow the red battery cable from the rear battery back to where it connects on the firewall.

The bus bar it connects to is covered by a white-ish fiberglass cover. This cover is secured with two knurled knobs. There is a photo of this on my initial post.

Unscrew the knobs, and remove the cover to expose the bus bar. You will see the red battery cable attaches here. That's the spot to attach the red lead from the electronics box.

The black lead from the electronics box attaches to the black battery cable on the front battery. This puts both 12 volt batteries in series, which doubles their voltage to 24 volts.

Good luck!
 

wallew

Active member
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San Angelo, Tx USA Planet Earth
I really like it. Now you gotta paint the four bolts where you mounted them under the hood. Maybe a little over spray on the cable, but only a little.

Love what you did. Smart about throwing the installation to one side.

thx for showing us...
 

combat jump

Member
143
4
18
Location
Raleigh, NC
I really like it. Now you gotta paint the four bolts where you mounted them under the hood. Maybe a little over spray on the cable, but only a little.

Love what you did. Smart about throwing the installation to one side.

thx for showing us...
Thanks, Wallew.

No need to paint those bolts, though - the hardware is all stainless steel, the hood holes are protected with black silicone sealer.

The truck/Solargizer has become a conversation starter. I came out of the DMV yesterday, to admirers who asked "What's that on the hood?"
 

junkridge

Member
33
0
6
Location
leicester nc
I have a problem understanding how the solarizer knows to send 12v current to keep each each battery charged? Seems that the way this system works it would be better to have 2 12volt solargizers 1 to each battery? I just bought 2 24v for my 1031 and 1028 but cant make up my mind to install them.. aua
 

combat jump

Member
143
4
18
Location
Raleigh, NC
Junk,

Since the two 12 volt batteries are wired in series, they add up to 24 volts. Connect the Solargizer to the opposite ends of both batteries. I think there were instructions included in the box.
 

lavarok

Well-known member
1,119
33
48
Location
Fellsmere, FL
That spot on the hood is a nice location for the solar panel. I think Aboonski first showed me his in that spot about 2 years ago. I've done the same install on at least three CUCVs.

BUT....to do it RIGHT ( by my interpretation ) you should have:

1. drilled holes
2. removed burrs
3. painted holes
4. used rubber grommets in holes for bolts not silicone

As a friendly note, claiming your install is the "RIGHT" way leaves you open to criticism. Just share your projects with us, but don't claim your way is the RIGHT way. Looks good though. Your batteries will thank you.
 

Cucvnut

Well-known member
3,802
51
48
Location
Carver, Oregon
Thanks for your opinion everyone has one :wink:. Kurt did nothing wrong with his install. When he said right i think he was leaning more to how to do a nice install and not jerry rig it.
 
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