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The "Road Oiler" gets overdrive (700R4 Swap)

doghead

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With your new transmission, you don't need any vacuum lines or accesories.

The pump should have a Tee, with a cap on one side, and a reducer on the other side(leading up to the IP).

The rubber block keeps you from getting the lines connected backwards.
 

Speddmon

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Why does the IP need vacuum? It would be nice to just get rid of all of it. Can I do away with the block and hook the pump directly up to the IP?


Here are some snaps of the TV cables and you can see that the one is clearly longer than the other. I also tried to get a pic of where I broke the plastic part on the end.
 

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doghead

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The vacuum valve on the IP is a variable vacuum valve. It connects to the throttle linkage and varies the vacuum to the TH400 transmission.

You do not need any of this anymore.

You do need to leave the vacuum pump installed though, as the bottom of it drives your engine's oil pump.
 

Recovry4x4

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Put a reverse rotation vacuum pump in and use it to inflate air mattresses. There is another option. The HMMWV uses a tach drive in that location. Cam driven, drives the oil pump and hooks up to a tach sensor on top. Without the tach sensor it looks like a standard tach cable may attach.
 

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gimpyrobb

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Put a reverse rotation vacuum pump in and use it to inflate air mattresses. There is another option. The HMMWV uses a tach drive in that location. Cam driven, drives the oil pump and hooks up to a tach sensor on top. Without the tach sensor it looks like a standard tach cable may attach.
He'll never leave home w/o his inflatable sheep now...
 

Speddmon

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This project is FINALLY coming to a close. Today I made the trip NAPA to get the replacement TV cable and the transmission cooler hose. Came home and installed the cable in about 5 minutes (It's scary that I am getting that proficient at putting these things on). Then moved onto the transmission cooler install. Only had one hose to finish that one up, and then I put the front end of the truck all back together. Finished the fuel filter install as well. Then I did the wiring for the lock-up. That was actually pretty darned easy to do. Although, I didn't do the 3rd gear manual lock-up switch yet. The cheap POS switch that they send you with the kit was not going to go in the truck. I think I might find a nice illuminated rocker switch or something like that to use. That way I'll know if it's on or not.

Next thing to tackle was to drop the tank. Came down easy enough, but with about 20 gallons of fuel in it, it was pretty heavy and took some time to get dumped out. The inside of the tank is fairly clean, just a little gunk from years of neglect, I was worried I was going to find a bunch of algae or something along those lines. I was going to try to clean it, but I think it would have been more of a pain that it was worth. So, I just removed the sock on the pickup tube and re-installed everything. Tomorrow morning when I go out to the chiropractor, I'm going to stop at NAPA again and pick up a 20 micron inline filter and place it between the frame rails outside of the tank for easy access. This is also going to be a temporary measure until I get an electric fuel pump mounted on the passenger side frame rail and redo all of the fuel lines with copper tubing. The original steel ones are pretty nasty looking running along the rail.

Kenny, if you remember the phone conversation from the morning I was on the way to the GA rally, and having the fuel issues. The aux. pickup tube in the tank (that was intended for a fuel fired heater) DOES go all the way to the bottom of the tank. Had I known that I would not have stopped every hour for fuel on the way down.
 

Recovry4x4

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Kenny, if you remember the phone conversation from the morning I was on the way to the GA rally, and having the fuel issues. The aux. pickup tube in the tank (that was intended for a fuel fired heater) DOES go all the way to the bottom of the tank. Had I known that I would not have stopped every hour for fuel on the way down.
That's good info to know Tom. Hey, at least we got you there. I can't wait to hear next years AAR from Speddmon. 70 MPH all the way down and back getting 17 MPG no doubt.
 

MarcusOReallyus

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The inside of the tank is fairly clean, just a little gunk from years of neglect, I was worried I was going to find a bunch of algae or something along those lines. I was going to try to clean it, but I think it would have been more of a pain that it was worth. So, I just removed the sock on the pickup tube and re-installed everything.

:confused: Did you clean the sock and put it back on? Or just leave it off?
 

Speddmon

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So, I just removed the sock on the pickup tube and re-installed everything. Tomorrow morning when I go out to the chiropractor, I'm going to stop at NAPA again and pick up a 20 micron inline filter and place it between the frame rails outside of the tank for easy access.

Leaving it off.
 

Speddmon

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Sorry about that, I had to go compose myself.

The Road Oiler is finally out of the garage!!!!!!

Can you believe I actually passed someone on the highway!!!!! And it wasn't some 90 year old grandma looking through the steering wheel either, it was a full size semi...I WAS GOING 70!!! :grd:

I got home from NAPA this morning and put the inline filter on the truck...made some last minute checks, filled the fuel filter with fuel so it wouldn't need to prime as long, and fired her up. Once it was running I started checking and topping off the transmission fluid. For anybody who is interested, a fully drained NP208 transfer case takes just shy of 5 quarts of ATF. And a completely empty 700R4 and torque converter, with a deep oil pan takes 15+ quarts to fill up. Yes, for those of you poor at math, that's 5 gallons of ATF on the nose to top everything off.

Backed out of the garage and went down the road pretty easily at first to check the shifts. Nice and solid shifts right where they are supposed to be. 1-2 at about 12 MPH to 15 MPH, 2-3 at about 25 MPH to 30 MPH, and 3-4 at about 45 MPH or so under light throttle. No further adjustment of the TV cable needed. With the factory bracket (Thanks Kenny) and the proper cable, it came out perfect first time. The cable was fully retracted and at WOT, it came out of the adjuster 1 click.

45 MPH at about 1440 RPM
70 MPH at about 2520 RPM
70 MPH at about 2680 RPM with the converter unlocked.

I am SOOO happy I did that swap rather than just putting another turbo 400 back in it. Although, for those of you thinking about doing the conversion, it will force you to modify your driving style just a bit. You really need to watch the acceleration on the hills. Since the downshifts are controlled by the TV cable now and the kick down switch at the pedal isn't in play any longer, if you give it too much throttle on a hill to maintain speed you can get a pretty high RPM downshift when you really don't want one.

Now to the pics...in one you can see my bright shiny new drive shaft, another shows my home build transfer adapter standoff spacer. 3 1/2" in the prefect height for the shorty NP208 adapter. Another pic shows my fuel filter mod. And one of them is looking along the drivers side of the transmission viewing the wires for the lock-up. I cheated a bit and loosened up the shifter mount for the transfer case and ran the wires through the same cavity as the 4x4 switch wires.
 

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