Threw a Torque Rod today

Tinstar

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Put me on the list. Anybody do a retention method? Bolt/washer?

View attachment 687693View attachment 687694
What were you doing when that happened?


I've seen here on SS guys take a large, heavy gauge flat washer and just weld it in the center.
Looks pretty good when painted.

Also have seen a large Grade 8 bolt welded across to prevent rod from popping off rubber.
Worked fine, doesn't look very good IMO.

I think I will do the washer method or just fab something out of plate steel.
 

74M35A2

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Its ok. Swamp, jeff and I all agree that you were probably as scared as a little kid who just broke his mom favorite thing

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Yep. That's exactly how it went.

The bone tossed going over the peak of a sand hill. It was the lower right of the rear most axle. 3" ratchet straps were able to pull it back into location, but I could not get the arm back on. So I used a 3" ratchet strap in each the forward and rear direction to hold the axle there, and it held fine, including leaving the off road park and the hour drive home.

Seems like the newer ball joint type are double the cost of the stock replacement ends. Strongest solution may be to buy 12 new stock ends, and drill and tap them for a large bolt and washer before installation. Then they are new, and have the retention washer on them.

I'm really trying to understand why stock did not use the ball joint type. The stock one can not rotate, it just puts torsional force on the rubber. Why would they want it this way? Seperation is bound to happen then. For this reason, is why I am still partially considering the ball joint type.

This really is one of the only weak links of these trucks. I don't haul much weight, but I do off road it and don't want to be scared to go over something, so it is getting improved one way or another as to not happen again.
 

therooster2001

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Yup. Sucks when it happens, and you get super nervous even with new ones back on for a little bit. I still listen for the wheels rubbing when the axle twisted on mine. Yuck. Then I got extra LEO attention while I was on the side of the road. I have yet to install / weld the washers, and need to.

I still have a bag of cad cotter pins if you need some or can point you where I got some.
 

Csm Davis

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Dang, tough crowd! Ive been dreading this scenario, how did you throw yours? Gimpyrob also had some cool drilled and tapped ends on his deuce at Haspin, sounds like the same as Tom has. This is another thing on my to do list, that probably wont happen until it "HAPPENS"...
Yeah last one I threw was on a wrecker pulling a wheelie while pulling a wrecker up a hill diagonally, I think my response was well crap.

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Spyderman

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I am glad I found this thread. My dog bone on the passenger rear just popped of the other day. Now I need to fix it. Decisions decisions.
 

simp5782

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Got a question. Can anybody tell me what size wrench I will nee to take the nut off of the dog bone?
2- 1/4". If you can find the Axle socket that size it helps on the trunion side to get it off rather than slowly using a wrench. If you have a torch just use that to get the nut off. sometimes the whole insert is froze up and will just spin or flex. Smack the center of that bracket with a sledge and it will pop out.
 
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74M35A2

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So the wife, kids, and I, were putting our fresh cut Christmas tree up this past weekend. We're at the part where we are setting up the Lionel train underneath, and there is something wrong with the motor in the locomotive. I pick the engine up, flip it over, and I'm looking at the wheels, spinning them by hand. My 10 year old daughter leans in to look, and says "Are the dog bones bad on it?". RUFS? A classic...
 

925a2Tim

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I didn't read all replies so I hope I'm not covering old ground.
When i bought my 925 it had a very bad slam when downshifting. I replaced obviously bad dogbone bushings and the truck smoothed out amazingly. I did the washer welding fix on a couple but will replace them when time allows.
 

timgc78

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Guys these torque arm bushings are hard work ....but far from rocket science.
The top four are the hardest to get to break free. I machined a wedge that went from .1875 (3/16") to .4375 (7/16") out of cold rolled plate the slot just cleared the radius in the root of the bushing. I used a piece of 1.125 cold roll round stock to drive the wedge into the Inside 2 bushings along the torque arm with a sledge hammer Until they popped loose. The wedge easily popped the bushings on the axles with the sledge hammer. The old bushings pressed out and reinstalled with my 20 ton shop press. I machined a disc with a counterbore that pressed the outer ring and didn't touch the inner rubber bushing. The press out and in didn't take any more than the 20 ton jack. I realigned the axles back to the correct spacing with a porta power. Very easy to push a bit at a time . If you go to far push the other way until you can get both bushings started and get the nuts to thread on. From there your wrench will draw the bushings in and line everything up. The bottom torque bushings can be struck directly with your sledge hammer. The wedge from inside absolutely helps to break the taper loose. You need heavy hammers, a correctly machined wedge, preferably from a tougher steel than cold roll. The wrench to fit the nuts. A porta power makes realigning the axles an easy process. If you cuss you will. If you pray you will. If you do a little of both you'll succeed..
 

Micmada

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Howdy,

Today while slowly rolling down a hill the back of my M923 kicked hard to the right when I applied the brakes (gently) and there was a non-standard clank/clunk. When I climbed down to take a look I found the the first rear axle right tire almost touching the second rear axle right side tire. The front right side Torque Rod had come loose (the rubber was out of the ring and the Torque Rod was separated from the mount).

So after a little searching on Steel Soldiers I ordered a set of the heavy duty ball joint replacement parts ("Torque Rod End For 5 Ton Trucks M54 / M809 / M939, Heavy Duty Style, 7979185HD") from http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/torodendfor51.html and they are on the way (Thanks Eric!).

Is "TM 9-2320-211-34-2-3" appropriate for the M923 as it is not listed in the preamble (it lists "5-TON, 6X6, M39 SERIES TRUCKS (MULTIFUEL")? If not I have been unable to find the correct TM relating to the process of removing and reinstalling the rebuilt Torque Rod (honest I have tried!). I also need to understand how to best move the front axle back into the correct alignment so I can reattach the rebuilt Torque Rod.

Can someone direct me to the correct TM that will cover this project?

My second question is could I have damaged anything else that I need to inspect during the repair process?

When I pulled off the road the axle actually came back partially into alignment. There does not appear to be any other damage to any other part of the drive line when I crawl under the truck.

The truck is about five days old to me however I am not concerned about this problem as long as I can completely address the repair. Fortunately I have access to everything that may be required to rebuild the Torque Rod. I have also review the following links (and many others tonight):

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/archive/index.php/t-112310.html


http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?75224-Pressing-Torque-Rod-Ends-In-Out


Also I thought about this today and I'm wondering if there is any reason NOT to do some version of this mod?
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?33684-Torque-rod-dogbone-mod-and-removal

All thoughts, comments and opinions Greatly Appreciated!

Thanks,
Tom
It is toward the end of the 20.1 TM. Torques are like in the 3-400s ft-lbs
 
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