Tie Rod End Recommendations?

[jrtoffroad]

Hey guys, near the end of my Moab trip I noticed the front tires of my m1123 would turn on their own under heavy load. From what I've read, it sounds like this is likely due to a worn Idler, but all steering joints could be suspect.

I'm planning to upgrade to the alpha/moog problem solver idler, pitman arm, and center link to help cure this, but also want to replace the Tie Rod Ends.

How do the Moog and OEM joints stack up? I was planning to grab Moog TRE's, but it looks like they are out of stock at many places. Is it worth waiting or paying an arm and a leg for the Moog's?

Also, do you guys have a favorite supplier for these type of parts? Hummer Parts Guy has the Pitman, Idler, and Centerlink for $524. This this is a decent deal? Can't seem to find these parts at traditional auto part suppliers like rockauto.

 

[rcamacho]

I recently scored a nice deal for OEM AMG TRE on an auction site. All 4 were worn on my M998.

In a nutshell I replaced TRE, Idler, drag link and Pittman. Took the opportunity to upgrade to A2 variant on the latter parts. Steering is tight/precise now.

Moog TRE for zero toe are interesting. Better positioning in the center of the ball range.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jrtoffroad]

Hey, see you're from Bainbridge Island. Haven't been back that way in many years, but I grew up out there. Neat place. A Humvee has got to standout on Bainbridge like a sore thumb. Hope you drive it all the time!

 

[juanprado]

I believe there is some sort of realignment going on with Federal Mogul Auto Parts which was acquired by Tenneco. They are the parent company of Moog and Precision. Precision is now starting to offer a full line of chassis parts in addition to the cv and u-joint products plus control arms they used to offer.

O'Reillys is rolling out the full Precision line and cutting back on Moog.

It could be part of the supply issue problem as I just purchased Precision ball joints for another application from O Reillys and they were made in China. I hope moog is not going the China Route also.

 

[rcamacho]

Hey, see you're from Bainbridge Island. Haven't been back that way in many years, but I grew up out there. Neat place. A Humvee has got to standout on Bainbridge like a sore thumb. Hope you drive it all the time!

It’s not my DD but I do drive it regularly


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[LouWon]

I was trail riding a few weeks ago and got a loud pop sound and the steering was sloppy
The idler arm that I bought from Flea bay had let go, not even 2k miles on it, where was it made ?
When it come to this buy the good stuff, I was able to get a moog problem solver, there is quite a difference in size and quality.

 

[mgFray]

Is there a part number for the moog and where can you get it? Was googling for it and found an old post that it was an AMGN part only, so was difficult to get. I'm assuming this has improved?

 

[LouWon]

Check Wolfer , it's on sale

Idler Steer-Bracket(HD-A2)[2nd-Gen] Hummer M1114 ; 12460467 6004839 25

HEAVY DUTY -- IDLER-BRACKET, STEERING ( In Stock - available ) ______________________________________ Fits: HMMWV , M998 , M1097 , M1117 , H1 , Humvee , etc. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ***Updated MOOG Problem Solver. Revised steering components have been developed to extend the...

comtac.parts

 

[juanprado]

Wolfers is a known vendor/flipper with many china com knockoffs. Search here on ss for many reported issues


Just look up a h1 hummer if is the base early model m998. Oreilly sells moog or can order it in

 

[LouWon]

How about this one then.

EC6004839 / 01-420-3839 2530-01-420-3839 - IDLER ARM, STEERING (A2) [MOOG] | Hummer Parts Guy (HPG)

www.hummerpartsguy.com

Or this one

HUMMER H1 AM GENERAL OEM PARTS, ARM ASM, IDLER EC6004839

store.adv4x4.com

 

[vmaxmike]

Can anyone help with MOOG part numbers for Rod ends, Pitman arm, Idler arm. I've been searching with little success in the old threads


My front end is loose and I want to get good parts not china crap


Thanks in advance

M.

 

[juanprado]

It appears Moog is OE equipment but does not release the proprietary parts to the aftermarket and has to be sourced through AMG or one of its distributiors or surplus.

 

[vmaxmike]

as I read more on this subject it seem there are a few variations. '89 M998 is what I looking for it appears not to have been upgraded, although i'd be interested in what is involved in that if someone can fill me in

M.

 

[Mogman]

Download TM TM 9-2320-280-24P-1

HMMWV - High-Mobility Military Wheeled Vehicle (HUMVEE)

The HMMWV is a 4x4 All-Terrain Military Vehicle introduced by the US Army in 1984 also know as Humvee. With over 300,000 units produced and in active service with 70+ countries as well as in civilian use.

www.nsnlookup.com

Then scroll down to the 30th page (not page#30) and look up the UOC (usable on code) you will find your 1989 M998 is an H13 (1989 was called a "basic" as it does not have an A1, A2 etc, designation)
Then do a document search for "idler arm" this will take you to the page with the steering components.
As an example the idler arm has two part numbers listed, if you look only one will have a UOC code of H13 listed below the part, that is the correct part for your truck.
As stated finding the MOOG part in the civilian world is tough but you can search the part numbers and find plenty of sources for OEM parts.
Unless you are doing something like Baja racing the OEM parts will last a long time, they upgraded parts on the much heavier versions but IMHO it is just not necessary for normal use.
There are some cheap Chicom parts out there that do not last though so pick your source carefully, ASK questions!!

You can also use this information to see what part numbers were used on the later or the "upgraded" part numbers.

EDIT So if you wanted to do an upgrade it looks like you would need a different drag link, idler arm, steering gear arm and 2 tie rods (not the tie rod ends)
You would also need to confirm if the steering gear arm would fit your steering gear.

 

[vmaxmike]

Thank you for the detailed response, very helpful! I've located the OEM / Gov. part numbers, do they cross over to Moog or another Mfg. or are they our only source?

M.

 

[87cr250r]

I bought some Moog tie rods for my CUCV. I wasn't happy with them because all of the rubber bits swole up and disintegrated. I blamed Moog then. Now that I'm older and wiser, I realize something. Modern chassis parts are designed to work with silicone greases. Don't use "chassis" grease in your chassis.

Grease for Ball Joints| Nye Lubricants

Grease provides smooth action for ball joints to operate efficiently, prevent against wear, and protect against environmental corrosion.

www.nyelubricants.com

 

[juanprado]

Interesting information. I had not seen any retail chassis/multi purpose tubes of grease that were silicone. I always like using a red, blue, or green modern products. I tend to stay away from the old school tan/brown peanut butter lithium greases.

Who sells Nye products retail?

 

[87cr250r]

I have recently gone down the grease rabbit hole. Grease is one of those things that the way I've always done it people will forever hold back. The automotive OEM's have long ago ditched the old lithium grease in just about every application as it separates from it's thickener, can't be used with age resistant rubber, and requires frequent reapplication. Modern wheel bearing lubes are polyurea thickened, chassis lubes are silicone based or EPDM rubber compatible, etc. Nye Lubricants is a supplier for the major OEM's so they don't have a store or anything. You can buy direct but the prices will be shocking. Who is going to pay $500 for a 1lb tub of grease? If you're packing ball joints that $500 may do 500 joints but it's not really economical for us at the consumer level. That's where we have to find the same lube repackaged under other names for retail sale or find similar substitutes.

A possible substitute may be Super Lube with Syncolon. It is a silicone base with PTFE thickener.

There is also Tef-Gel, it lists itself as a gel like the Nye product and is priced comparably but is available in small quantities. I don't know what the base oil is but it is compatible with age resistant rubbers.

John Deere Extreme Duty Synthetic grease is PTFE thickened and I *think* is compatible with EPDM rubber and can be used as a general purpose grease as well. It has a good price point but has been hard to get lately.

Silicone greases are not really the best lubricants. Don't use them for wheel bearings or splines and such.

 

[Mogman]

I recently bought a powered grease gun at auction, it had a tube of synthetic grease from Mystik in it, it had separated and "leaked" out inside of the case, the SECOND opened the case that stuff got All over my shop and it is nearly impossible to get rid of.
No more of that "stuff" for me!!

 

[87cr250r]

The polyurea grease don't separate like that. It's called "shear stable".

Mobil Polyrex EP 2 is an excellent general purpose grease and Polyrex EM is great great higher speed bearings. Both are well priced.

Polyurea thickened greases are in shortage right now.