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timing M-37

Karl kostman

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Hey guys I have a very basic question for you concerning setting the timing on my 52 M-37? When i pulled the distributor out I was at TDC on the #1 cylinder or should I possibly say the FRONT first cylinder, got the Distributor assembly done and reinstalled it and it appears I have a timing problem, I have great spark at the plugs but my timing is off. What Cylinder do I use to time this engine?

Thanks and sorry for asking such a dumb question
KK
 

m38inmaine

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Sounds like you did it right, check the spark plug wires to make sure they are in the correct firing order. With #1 at TDC check to see if the rotor button is pointing at the #1 spark plug lead on the cap.
 

dmetalmiki

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As mentioned. With the number one piston on top dead center, ON the COMPRESSION stroke, the rotor arm should point to that cylinders spark lead in the distributor. The make sure the plug leads are wired to the correct plugs In the CORRECT ROTATION, ( I.E. does the rotor arm turn anti clockwise or Clockwise? ) Then in the correct order, in the direction of the rotor arm rotation. Most 6 cylinder engines that era fire 153624, BUT CHECK for your vehicles firing order. (usually on the manifold). or T.M. Handbook or other manual.
 

M543A2

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dmetalmiki makes a good point-make sure it is on the compression stroke or you will be one crank revolution out. Take out the front plug and with your finger over the hole turn the crank in the correct direction with the fan until you start to feel the compression being blown past your finger. Bring it on up to the TDC timing mark on the front damper and set your distributor in so the rotor will point at plug wire #1 cap terminal. You can mark where that terminal is on the side of your distributor housing so you have a reference point without the cap on.
 

TGP (IL)

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Is this a military system? If it is it should only go in one way.
If you didn't turn the engine over while the Dist was out it should g
Go back in time.
If you did rotate the engine then start over as mentioned earlier.
Tom
 

Karl kostman

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Hey guys I wanted to say thanks for the info and the engine was NOT turned over while the distributor was out and it is a 100% military original distributor and all internal components. I now have all the spark plug wires DEtached from the distributor I will remove the cap tomorrow after verifying #1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke, then pull the cap and see where the rotor is pointing and go from there. Another thing that came to me was when putting the cap on with all the wires attached it pulls kind of hard to get the bottom of the cap attached to the distributor, with NO wires attached it will allow me to put the cap on SQUARE, there is a possibility that maybe I was not getting a good connection with that spring connector on the internal distributor cap. We shall see in the morning and I will let you know how it all goes.
Thanks again
Karl
 

Karl kostman

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Fargo ND
Hey folks I thought I had better update you on the M37 timing issues I was having. After reading all your posts I went out and pulled all the plug wires and pulled the Distributor cap off AGAIN and checked everything inside according to the TM and your directions, I then reassembled it all back onto the truck and made positive that all the wires to to the correct cylinder, everything looked good. I then tried to start the engine and everything was the same (NO START) but I could get it to fire if I held the throttle to the floor, and the term FIRE way be a little optimistic but I did smell fuel! I crawled under and removed the power lead to the fuel pump and tried to start it again and holding the throttle to the floor it cranked a few turns and fired up, it ran pretty darned good till it ran out of gas of course. So the great news is that the ignition is done and my problem is now in the carburetor needle and seat, those parts will be here today!
Thanks again for all your advice in this matter and the problem is now solved!
Thanks much
Karl
 

dmetalmiki

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Glad to have helped somewhat, that seat problem can be annoying, my jeep needs a kit as it just will not keep the petrol level up in the bowl.
 

TGP (IL)

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Glad you got it running.

FYI
You obviously are running a electric fuel pump.
Remember you can only supply 4-5 lbs. (6.5-7 Max) pressure to the Carb. or
It will overwhelm the needle and seat and flood.
The system was designed to run on 4-5 PSI.

Not sure what pump you are using.
Tom
 
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