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Timkens On TheTop?

SasquatchSanta

New member
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Location
Northern Minnesota
I'm in the process of completely rebuilding an M37 front axle assembly.

I'm told that installing Timken bearings on both the top and bottom spindles will make the truck steer easier.

When the M37 was build it had a brass bushing on the top spindle and a Timken on the bottom. The bottom Timken will fit in place on the top.

Supposedly the brass bushing was needed when the trucks were air dropped.

Does anyone have an opinion on this?
 

CGarbee

Well-known member
2,448
511
113
Location
Raleigh, NC
Putting the bearings on the top as well as the bottom is a good thing to do. Eeasier steering and less wear on the components in general. Well worth the effort, especially if you are already tearing down the front axle...

Detailed info on knuckle rebuilding including the conversion to a top bearing can be found on my friend Paul's Immage Event site (he's detailing the rebuild of a M37 with a lot of costom body mods and a repower with a Cummins 4BT...) at:
http://imageevent.com/moosecreekmaple/steeringknuckle

Enjoy.
 

SasquatchSanta

New member
1,177
18
0
Location
Northern Minnesota
CGarbee Sez:

Detailed info on knuckle rebuilding including the conversion to a top bearing can be found on my friend Paul's Immage Event site (he's detailing the rebuild of a M37 with a lot of costom body mods and a repower with a Cummins 4BT...) at:
http://imageevent.com/moosecreekmaple/steeringknuckle
__________

Thanks for the input.

I just finished completely rebuilding an M37 front assembly and elected to use timkens on the top and bottom of the spindles.

I'm concerned that I don't have enough pre-load because I have a slight "clunk" that appears to be coming from the front right hub when I hit a bump.

We ended up with only 10 pounds of pre-load with NO shims. Tomorrow I'm going to do some trouble shooting --- possibly build and install a round shim over the
bearing which will tighten up the spindle bearings a little. The problem I have now is that with it fully assembled it's going to be impossible to measure the pre-load.

I'm starting a new thread titled "Rebuilding The M37 Front Axle Assembly"
 

amanco

New member
301
3
0
Location
Marion, oHIo
CGarbee~ Thanks for the photo link. I had bought new axle seals and tie rod ends, idler arm etc.. from AB Linn and now I feel brave enough to go ahead with the rebuild. I just need to get some Timkens and I am set.
 

SasquatchSanta

New member
1,177
18
0
Location
Northern Minnesota
After running the rebuillt front axle assembly with Timken spindle bearings on both the top and bottom (no brass bearings) I've learned that the "clunk" I am hearing is not the fault of the dual Timken application.

I have a home-made lift kit on my truck (steel blocks between the axle housings and springs) that can cause the shocks to bottom out. What I'm hearing is a shock noise.

For the record --- when I installed the twin Timkens I had to remove all the spindle shims to get any preload and even with zero shim was only able to get 10 pounds. The manual calls for 25 pounds BUT the preload stated in the manual is for one Timken and one brass bearing. Since I'm not planning on dropping my truck out of an airplane I'm told the twin Timkens will make the truck steer easier.

Although I haven't driven the truck very many miles since rebuilding the front assembly everything seems to be satisfactory. I've checked it several times by jacking the front wheels off the ground and checking for rigidity. Apparently 10 pounds of pre-load is sufficient with the twin Timkens.

This is not an endorsement of 10 pounds of preload --- just a report of whats working for me.

There may be instances where tightening spacers may have to be installed to get the required rigidity.
 
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