Tips for Engine removal?

[linhster]

For all who have done this process, please share any special things or pitfalls that might help a first timer on this project. I will be using a standard engine hoist and separating the engine and tranny. Thanks

 

[Action]

Just remove the 2 hinge pins and lift the hood off. remove the radiator stack. Take pictures before you unhook areas of parts. my first time took a weekend to swap motors and switch accessories over.

 

[rookie]

Getting ready for the transplant linshter let me know how it goes

 

[linhster]

Any advises RWH? Not looking for basic info but more of time saving techniques.

Will do rookie… Any luck on the front shaft and crossmember?

 

[BLK HMMWV]

Do you have the two piece engine lifting mount?
It will make the job easier.
What are you putting back in?
6.5 NA ? Turbo ?
Have you started it ?
Are you planning on replacing the main body wiring harness so you can run the factory Trans controller?
If so you will have to separate the body from the frame.
If your going to do that it's a whole lot easier to pull the motor.

I started my new engine while it was outside the truck to make sure it ran.
It's easier to work on outside the truck then once you install it.

Check all the glow plugs now .

There is a small drain hole/ tube in the valley between the heads. make sure it is clean and not plugged up with sand and debris. It drains down and out the drivers side.
The injector pump has a small secondary pump ( Accelerator Pump?) on the bottom side of it that sits down in that valley. My IP leaked down there. I have heard tell that some IP's have or had an aluminum sleeve with a steel piston in them from the factory and I had mine rebuilt and re sleeved.
Once the engine is in the truck it's a major PIA to get that IP out because it sits almost directly below the windshield. Half inside under the dog house and half under the hood.

That's all I can remember or want to remember.

 

[linhster]

Thanks BLK HMMWV, that's the stuff I was look for.

Have a 6.5na with the 4L80 and 242 ready to be transplanted (with the EESS and the TCM). Also have gather most of the parts required for the conversion. Hope I got everything on the check list. Have not started yet but trying to dot my i's and cross my t's. I did order the engine lift mount. Part of the engine harness was cut so I have to see if I can figure out what needs to be replace. Hopefully I will not have to change out the body harness. Will look up procedure on firing up the donor to test it out and repaint and clean it while it's out.

Really appreciate the advises.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Thanks BLK HMMWV, that's the stuff I was look for.

Have a 6.5na with the 4L80 and 242 ready to be transplanted (with the EESS and the TCM). Also have gather most of the parts required for the conversion. Hope I got everything on the check list. Have not started yet but trying to dot my i's and cross my t's. I did order the engine lift mount. Part of the engine harness was cut so I have to see if I can figure out what needs to be replace. Hopefully I will not have to change out the body harness. Will look up procedure on firing up the donor to test it out and repaint and clean it while it's out.

Really appreciate the advises.

Unless your going aftermarket for the trans controller, you are going to need to change the body harness out.
i can tell you from experience....doing these conversions OEM makes it painless. Will it cost more? Yes...but It ain't a hack job and done correct increases the value of your truck. 99% of the owners have no idea what they are missing out on without that 4th gear and extra power of the GEP 6.5's, and I don't mean the detuned 6.5 you may already have.
Done correctly you are basically making your truck an A2....

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Do you have the two piece engine lifting mount?
It will make the job easier.
What are you putting back in?
6.5 NA ? Turbo ?
Have you started it ?
Are you planning on replacing the main body wiring harness so you can run the factory Trans controller?
If so you will have to separate the body from the frame.
If your going to do that it's a whole lot easier to pull the motor.

I started my new engine while it was outside the truck to make sure it ran.
It's easier to work on outside the truck then once you install it.

Check all the glow plugs now .

There is a small drain hole/ tube in the valley between the heads. make sure it is clean and not plugged up with sand and debris. It drains down and out the drivers side.
The injector pump has a small secondary pump ( Accelerator Pump?) on the bottom side of it that sits down in that valley. My IP leaked down there. I have heard tell that some IP's have or had an aluminum sleeve with a steel piston in them from the factory and I had mine rebuilt and re sleeved.
Once the engine is in the truck it's a major PIA to get that IP out because it sits almost directly below the windshield. Half inside under the dog house and half under the hood.

That's all I can remember or want to remember.

You don't need to remove the body to do a body harness.....done many without doing it.
but yes, it does make it easy when the body is off.

 

[linhster]

Thanks RWH for the words of wisdom. Is there a good source for the A2 body harness? Or do I just look up the part# and search the internet?

 

[Action]

Once the engine is in the truck it's a major PIA to get that IP out because it sits almost directly below the windshield. Half inside under the dog house and half under the hood.

What kind of engine do you have that the IP is under the windshield? It is probably closer to the radiator than it is to the windshield....Can you post a pic of your IP in that location?

 

[BLK HMMWV]

Listen to RWH above. He specializes in this type of work. I don't.
Maintenance is king on these suckers. And if done right and kept up the value will increase or at the very least you may get part of the money back out of it.
I have owned my HMMWV for about 15 years and have a love- hate relation ship with it. I bought mine when they were a rarity so I paid a bunch for it.
I'll probably never be able to recoup what I have in it.
At times I don't know why I still own it.
But it keeps me out of the bars and has allowed me to work on my attitude adjustment skills.
Your reasons may vary. Maybe it's therapeutic , maybe to spend time with your son or even daughter working on a project together.
What ever it is you will soon find out that the military acronym and the true meaning of HMMWV is.

I swapped out power pack whole a few years back and used a aftermarket controller because I didn't want to separate body from frame and change main body harness. ( I'm too cheap)
After 3 years or so I finally bit the bullet and separated it. ( could have used that money)
Once I did that I was committed. I changed out everything.
A arms , bushings, Ball joints, Hubs, half shafts, Wire harness, fuel tank, Half shafts, front and rear diff's, I had done the parking brake upgrade with the body on. (that would have been a whole lot easier with body off)
I cut the floor and installed the inspection plate over the fuel gauge sender.
I insulated the underside of the body as well when it was off.
I worked on it on the weekends and it took me about 5-6 months .
I drove it in a 4th of July parade and then parked it in the garage.
I have more to do to it but after 5-6 months of looking at it every F'n weekend I'm taking a break for a bit.
Take your time. If it's worth doing , do it right .
Best of luck on your upcoming project.

 

[BLK HMMWV]

Ok Jason it's not all under the windshield frame but what I'm getting at is it's easier to work on without the body on it.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Thanks RWH for the words of wisdom. Is there a good source for the A2 body harness? Or do I just look up the part# and search the internet?

they are for the most part only available from distributors....rarely do you see them for sale.

 

[BLK HMMWV]

You don't need to remove the body to do a body harness.....done many without doing it.
but yes, it does make it easy when the body is off.

RWH how the **** do you get the old wires out from behind the rubber covered clamps on the left frame rail and the new wire installed back in the channel without taking the body off? I'm not trying to be a smart ass.
I know your the resident HMMWV guru out here on the west coast and I respect that , I just always assumed the body had to come off to get to those wires.
You helped a little with my upgrade without knowing it because I think Greg picked your brain a bit for me. Thanks by the way.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

RWH how the **** do you get the old wires out from behind the rubber covered clamps on the left frame rail and the new wire installed back in the channel without taking the body off? I'm not trying to be a smart ass.
I know your the resident HMMWV guru out here on the west coast and I respect that , I just always assumed the body had to come off to get to those wires.
You helped a little with my upgrade without knowing it because I think Greg picked your brain a bit for me.

You can get the old harness out...just takes a bit of working it. Just did it a few weeks ago.

 

[BLK HMMWV]

When you swap out old harness and install new do you route it in the same channel ?
If so, you have some mad skills and a whole lot of patients to be able to do it with the body on.

I think you should be called the HMMWV Whisperer.
Anyway thanks to both you and Ted that bunch of work is behind me.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Yes, same channel....it does just take some patience, but that's the only place that's requires a little more attention.

 

[rookie]

Actually linsther i should be getting some in next week front drive shafts