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Tire Tubes

cten

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Okay, I need some help here.


We installed the new alternator and she is starting up great and charging fine now. The voltmeter on the dash is registering green now.



I am a little concerned about the temp gauge. I have only had her running for a max of about 15-20min and thought I saw the temp gauge move to 120, but I'm not sure.



It is still real cold here in New England and it was around 34 today and I do not have a blanket in front of the radiator. I do not want to blow the engine up as she sounds great and I believe the water pump is working fine as I have no reason to suspect otherwise.



The other thing I started doing was filling up the tires and getting them to presure. Is it necessary to take the tires off the truck to inflate them. Because I inflated them on the truck to 60PSI and that is when I found one bad tube and still have 4 more to fill up. The tire seems to be leaking at the stem.



Where is a good cheap place to find tire tubes and what do they go normally go for. The tire itself is fine from what I can see.



I did check Saturn Surplus webpage, but do not see any tire tubes listed.



What else to I need to check before attempting to put her on the road for use?



I remember Joe Green mentioning something about a light for the rear plate and was also wondering if I need to put a beeper on the rear when backing up?




I went to NAPA today to get wiper blades and all I got was a shoulder shrug. I see those on Saturn.



We just had a winter camp out and built a Monkey bridge that was 90' long and all the scouts keep asking me when the truck is going to be ready. My son and I spent 2 hours on Sunday reinstalling the windows and on Monday we spent another 2 hours today alone installing the alternator and we still need to finish bending the (3)bows and reinstalling the canvas back.



I have a friend that has an M37 and was mentioning changing the oil and filters and he was like it may cause more problem changing them and I would be better off leaving them for now. I'm really questioning this one.



My biggest concern is the vehicle not being safe and someone getting hurt, so If anyone can think of anything I may have overlooked and you think of something I need to be reminded of send me a reply.



Hope this is not too long to read and reply to.



Regards,
 

Desert Rat

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Cten,

I understand your concerns. Allow a former trucker with over 1.5 million miles experience allay your worries.

First, the tires can be inflated on the truck witout fear of explosion. The tires can handle way more than 60 pounds of pressure before failure. The most critical time during initial inflation is when the tire is first installed on the rim and a tirre cage is used as the tire seats to the rim. Most commercial tire retailers have standard 9-10 tubes (that is a tube that will fit a 9X20 or 10X20 tire) for around $30 to $40 each brand new. Also have the inner liner (the rubber flap that goes between the rim and tube) inspected for cracks or other damage before re-use.

Second, even at idle the fact you have an internal combustion engine dictatres heat will be generated. So, to see a slight movement to 120 degrees is not a cause for alarm even at 34 degrees exterior. Diesels need quite a bit of heat to run properly. Normal operating temperatures are about 185 degrees. It's when you go over 212 degrees that you really need to hit the panic button big time (yep, I've been there and done that too!).

In Indiana when you have a plate over #9,000 the plate is mounted on the front of the vehicle. I have mine plated for #26,000 so I do not have a license plate light on the back. Nor do I have a reverse warning device either. None needed by law so none are installed.

As far as wipers are concerned, the military wipers are worthless unless you want to stay strictly with military restoration. I use Anco 25-11 wipers from AutoZone. But you can buy them from just about anywhere. Since I do not work for AutoZone anymore I can now use their name on any of my threads! Plus tough luck if they don't like the free publicity (a personal gripe there, sorry). Take the wiper arm off the truck. Take a pair of pliers and gently remove the wrist off the end of the wiper arm. Next mount the 25-11 with the adapter that fits the width of the arm exactly, drill through the tiny hole in the adapter so you can put a tiny bolt through and secure with a washer and nut on the other side and you have a relyable wiper that will actually clean the windshield without streaks or missing contact all together.

As far as changing the oil, I prefer the Balwin filters because the gasket included is a thicker rubber gasket than most other brands. Check TruckPro for these. They have the best prices. A word of advice, double check the oil canister edges when tightening down on the canister nut. Be sure you are not meeting the canister edge with the oil filter housing on the engine. This is very easy to do. The canister will not seat with the oil gasket at all. The result of this is loosing about a gallon of oil at initial startup and one really messy engine compartment and a meeting of the OPEC nations under your truck. Just like a car, change oil every 3K miles with these trucks. It is worth the effort.

It appears you have thought things through. Good luck and keep us up to date!
 

cranetruck

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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I agree with DR and can add that the engine uses very little fuel at idle and will not reach operating temp unless you cover the radiator. I use the radiator cover at temps below 40 at all times.
I'm not sure how long your snow season lasts up there, but in snow, use chains or you will be slipping and sliding all over, 6x6 or not.
I have added a lot of things to my deuce over the years to make it safer on the road (see my sig), such as back-up lights and alarm, DOT style marker lights etc, if you have any further questions, let us know.
 

MVtrucker

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>Where is a good cheap place to find tire tubes and what do they go normally go for. >The tire itself is fine from what I can see.
I usually purchase and sell 9:00x20" tubes for about $20.00 - 25.00, flaps for under $20.00. If interested, I'll call for a current quote. Allow bucks for UPS.
 

MVtrucker

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Bridgeton, NJ
True, LD, but if the tube is old and stretched it'll have a tendency to create folds when reinstalled. These folds will chafe and cause new leaks.
I encountered many flats that were caused by a crack in the flap, usually in the area of the hole for the tube stem.
Before demounting, check the valve core for leaks. I do this by placing a finger tip of spit on the stem inlet. Bubbles will indicate a leak and replacing the core often fixes it.
 

Monster Man

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MVtrucker said:
>Where is a good cheap place to find tire tubes and what do they go normally go for. >The tire itself is fine from what I can see.
I usually purchase and sell 9:00x20" tubes for about $20.00 - 25.00, flaps for under $20.00. If interested, I'll call for a current quote. Allow bucks for UPS.
hey Joe, beat me to it :burger: so, check Joe Young for tubes
 

MVtrucker

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Bridgeton, NJ
Lance,
I found some more tubes and flaps. Let me know when you need some again. I'm thinking maybe you're getting some tire experience? :)
Your truck is looking good! How come there's no deuce tracks on the hill?
Oh, and thanks putting my link on your site.
 

cten

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Georgetown/MA
Funny thing is my grandfather showed me that trick many years back when I was about 6yrs old. Spit on your finger and put it over the end of the stem and see if it bubbles.

Wish I he had been around longer so I could have learned a few more things from him.

No, this leak is near the base of the stem area as I can hear it leaking.

I'll go check out Joe's site when I have a quick second.

Thanks guys.
 

MVtrucker

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Welp, cten, I hate to admit it, but I'm probably as old as your grandfather was back then :( Got me about fifty some years of truck and trucking experience under my belt . Most of what I know was garnered at "The School of Hard Knocks" , no use you guys goin' there, too :)
 

cten

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Georgetown/MA
Joe, if you only knew how much appreciate the help my son and I have been getting from everyone, because of guys like you.

I do not mind getting my hands dirty, but do appreciate the help keeping my knuckles in the process.

Regards,
 

MVtrucker

New member
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Bridgeton, NJ
We're all glad to help, cten. When I got my first M35A2, no sites like this existed, nobody to ask, in the dark. Believe me, I've sure learned a lot from Steel Soldiers and the Mil-Veh Mailing List, and still am.
 

cten

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Location
Georgetown/MA
Well there is good new and I'm hoping no bad news.

Looks like only one flat that will need repairing.

I do have a question though.

Are split rims illegal?

If so, I'm going to have problems getting an inspection sticker.

I was talking to a truck garage yesterday and they did not mention it other than they were not keen on doing the rims.

I would think that they would have said something about the split rim.

Reason why I ask is a friend of my drives for a supermaket and drives an 18 wheeler and he mentioned it.

Comments appreciated.

Regards,
 

Desert Rat

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Cten,
Split rims are legal. Heck, the intermodal industry's lifeblood is 10X20 split rim tread. Legal in all the lower 48. Most of my 1.5 million miles come from pulling those pigs.
 

MVtrucker

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There are split rims and split rings. Split rings are the standard on the M35A2 and many civvy applications. I think split rims are indeed illegal in some areas. Split ring is very dangerous to work on if you don't know what you're doing and don't have the right tools and cage. Not as bad as split rim, though.
 

cten

New member
222
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0
Location
Georgetown/MA
Here is another question.

I found a nail in the tire.

Do I have to get a new tire, or can I just install a new tube and go to town?

Or is there a pad that you put on the back side of the hole so that nothing gets inside and gets between the tire and tube?

Regards,
 
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