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towing a m1009

Orionthehunter

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I am a newbe to the site and to the M1009 (just purchased last week and drove 1000+ miles with it. I have lots of work to do to it to bring it up to my standards but those questions will have to wait (speedo, fuel gauge malfunction, horn inop, hood stuck sometimes, and other small issues). it runs great and I love the spartan nature of it. here is my most pressing issue however.

I am wanting to tow my m1009 over longer distances (numerous trips of over a 1000 miles). Wondering if placed in neutral in both the transfer case and the transmission will allow this to occur without damage? thanks for the help.
 

wheelspinner

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Yes, no issues. The transfer case in N divorces the driveline from the tranny, so no issues with an uncooled tranny. Very popular truck to pull behind bigger green iron.
 

Barrman

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Ummmmm…...

Section 2-41 of the -10 manual says you can tow the truck up to 50 miles at speeds up to 35 mph with both in neutral. Faster or further and the TM says to drop both drive shafts.

Sure, others have done it different. I just drop the rear drive shaft and make sure the front lock out hubs really are locked out. What you do is up to you because in the end. It is you that will paying to replace what broke, burned up or locked up while going down the road.
 

Gunzy

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As a wrecker operator I have been trained to lift the drive wheels off of the ground. If this cannot be done remove the drive shaft. I wouldn't want to have to buy a trans or transfer case. Always better safe than sorry.
 

UNIMOG-GUY

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Ummmmm…...

Section 2-41 of the -10 manual says you can tow the truck up to 50 miles at speeds up to 35 mph with both in neutral. Faster or further and the TM says to drop both drive shafts.

Sure, others have done it different. I just drop the rear drive shaft and make sure the front lock out hubs really are locked out. What you do is up to you because in the end. It is you that will paying to replace what broke, burned up or locked up while going down the road.
I agree with Barrman. Why take the chance and only end up having to spend more money replacing something? It only takes maybe 5 mins total time to drop the rear drive shaft and secure it under the vehicle. Don't be lazy and do it right the first time.
 

Barrman

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Remember, the manuals were written by people thinking about how they could be mis interpreted by Soldier B.

The rear drive shaft can not be stopped from spinning when the truck moves unless it is physically removed from the rear axle.

The fronts have lock out hubs. They are easy to put in "off." They are just as easy to put in "engaged." Just one off and the front drive shaft to the transfer case "should" not spin. However, the differential gear will be spinning. Both off and nothing should be spinning inside the axle. If you are sure both of your lock out hubs are working properly and are not engaged, you can spin the front drive shaft freely and nobody else is "helping" you get set up. Leave it. If in doubt, spend the 5 minutes it takes to undo the front ujoint and hang the shaft up out of the way.
 

wheelspinner

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I also was a tow truck operator and recovery specialist for years. If you want to make additional work for yourself for NO reason at all go ahead and waste your time disconnecting the driveshaft. It is a complete waste of time on THESE trucks and that's what we are talking about. It is only necessary to ensure the transmission is not turning as the pump would not be driven and therefore no cooling for the tranny. When a person asks about a specific vehicle I try to answer about that specific vehicle and not in generalities.
 

Recovry4x4

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The pump for the 208 transfer case is on the output shaft. With that in mind as long as the rear drive shaft is turning, the oil (ATF) will be pumping. Even with that said, I remove the shaft for for my peace of mind. Actually, with the M1008 I just remove the axle shafts. I't easy with an impact and I don't have to crawl under the truck.
 
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