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TOWING A M720 mobilizer is it me or ?

Tinstar

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The kicker is no tongue weight.
Loaded it's fine.
Empty and a radio flyer wagon tows better.

I get to recover a M989A1 next week and not looking forward to it.

Update

Towed it 402 miles home with the 5 ton
It towed like a dream. Heavy but nice.
 
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simp5782

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The kicker is no tongue weight.
Loaded it's fine.
Empty and a radio flyer wagon tows better.

I get to recover a M989A1 next week and not looking forward to it.
They don't tow bad. They like to snake if you have deep running lanes on the interstate Just try to stay on top of them. I have towed two at one time before. Yes she was long but my 5 ton didn't even notice them. They are heavy enough that they don't move much otherwise just like to jump in those ruts. and low profile gives them less chances for truck wind to get to them.
 

simp5782

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I got another M720 and went out on the interstate to Ft Riley to get it took 1hr 47mins, back hwy home took 3hr 56 min. If I was going up hill could almost make 42mph before it would get wacky and I would back off to 37 and it would settle down to a gently sway! I don't have the PU anymore so couldn't get the front axle off the ground for a 2 wheel tow. Made for a long afternoon.

Btw Overdrive I tried to lock the draw bar like you stated, but mine the pin seemed too short and popped out as I got going.


I have the same problem with my double axle dolly behind my F250. Over 35mph and I hit a bump and shes on the shake to get away. Granted it is almost as heavy as my pickup but the squirrellyness is just irritating!
 

Overdrive

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I haven't given up on figuring out towing unloaded. Got my M720 home from a friend that loaded it on a flatbed. First issue I noticed is that most GL sites will sling the dollies around using a forklift under the front axle and guess what, they bend the front tie-rods so the wheels are not toed in correctly. I have one bent tie rod to straighten then will start experimenting.

I don't know why but I love these little dolly sets.

OD
 
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Chief_919

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I'm pondering this issue as well.

Could you bolt a generic steering dampener to the tie rods and would that help keep the shakes from developing?

How about chaining the draw bar straight by getting it lined up and then running a chain and binder from each side tie down on the front axle to the draw bar, effectively locking it straight? Either chains or heavy duty ratchet straps, but I am sure chains would lock it tighter.

Worst case I am thinking leave the draw bar folded up and use a towbar with axle clamps.
 

StrykerPerry

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1227161631.jpghere is the best way to tow these and yes you can tow multiple dollies like this you tie the hitch straight not crooked and make it tight it will pull great and back easily without a load i pulled mine up to 80 mph just fine behind my 1/2 ton pickup and no sway at all this way
 

StrykerPerry

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also DO NOT CHAIN they need the heavy duty straps to allow a little bit of up and down flex when pulling make sure you tie it on level ground and if it is crooked it will hop allot and you will know before you leave the parking lot
 

DanM7890

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Brought mine home today from Bragg. I pulled it with my F150 ecoboost and the braking was fine. Mine didn't have any issues swaying as I used the method above and put straps on either side and it rode fine at 60-65mph.

IMG_3411.jpg
 

Overdrive

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Great! Glad someone figured out a way to tow that works... The 720s seem to be all the rage now I can't get my hands on an S-280 with dolly brackets so my sad 720 is sitting all dejected :(
 

asajay

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Picked up my very first M720 yesterday. Drove from Spokane to Tacoma WA to pick-up. Based on testimony here, I brought ratcheting cargo straps with me to fix the draw-bar in place. Once we had the draw bar in place, we found the left wheel was toed out. The tie-rod was bent, so we adjusted the tie-rod until both the left and the right front wheels were parallel with the rear.

She towed home like dream with the draw-bar fixed in place with the cargo straps. All the way at posted freeway speeds. This was with a 1994 Ford F250 Powerstroke.

I would recommend, to the moderators, they post this method to the -top- of this thread, it might save some folks a lot of time. My apologies, I meant to take photos before I unhooked it all but forgot. It's very basic though. Two cargo straps from the loop under the draw bar where the safety chains go through, to the loop welded to the front frame near the tire. One on each side. Ratchet the strap until the front wheels are parallel with the rear and make them -tight-. Secondarily, check the toe of the front wheels. I'd recommend if anything, they need a slight toe-in, but anything as close to parallel should work well.

That's my story.
Asa Jay
 

asajay

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That's exactly it. How do we get the moderators to boost that to top of thread and make it sticky? Good photos by the way. :)

Asa Jay
 
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