• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

Tracked down a brake line leak...any suggestions..

Joe Gamma

New member
125
1
0
Location
Middleboro Mass
Finally tracked down the nefarious brake line leak that has plagued me for a year or more. It had just gotten worse lately so one day after getting the Misses and myself dinner I rolled uner the goat and caught it dripping. It is the right rear hub where the brakeline meets the nipple...any ideas..seems defianatly bent and loose..any suggestions...003.jpg
 
Last edited:

1958 M274

Member
333
4
18
Location
North GA
Finally tracked down the nefarious brake line leak that has plagued me for a year or more. It had just gotten worse lately so one day after getting the Misses and myself dinner I rolled uner the goat and caught it dripping. It is the right rear hub where the brakeline meets the nipple...any ideas..seems defianatly bent and loose..any suggestions...View attachment 457240
Replace the hose assembly. They are available from Rich at Riv-Rad. 251-988-8666
 

Joe Gamma

New member
125
1
0
Location
Middleboro Mass
Have to take off the rear coil spring to replace the brake line. Now there is a treat on your birthday..

I was going to jack up the trailor as normal and place a three foot two by eight across the supports in front of the rear wheels supported by two 4 ton jacks. I figure this would displace some of the jack force on the aluminum trailor as I can not use the normal jack point..Any suggestions..??

Thanks guys..

Joe
 

Gamagoat1

Active member
744
43
28
Location
Kiowa, Colorado
Why take out the coil spring??? pages 12-86 and 12-87 in TM-2320-242-20-3-2 shows every step in changing rear break lines. If the line is to short to fit with the spring in place, it sure won't last long after you replace it. The first bump you hit will be followed by a rebound and the fitting will look like does now. Check the length of the hose before you replace. Use the front axle hose as a pattern. Front and rear are the same..
 
Last edited:

Joe Gamma

New member
125
1
0
Location
Middleboro Mass
Why take out the coil spring??? pages 12-86 and 12-87 in TM-2320-242-20-3-2 shows every step in changing rear break lines. If the line is to short to fit with the spring in place, it sure won't last long after you replace it. The first bump you hit will be followed by a rebound and the fitting will look like does now. Check the length of the hose before you replace. Use the front axle hose as a pattern. Front and rear are the same..
I have the pdf version of the manual and with fig 2-251 it shows the hose assembly labeled as 18 with two clamps marked as 17. The route of the hose is clearly meant to clamp around the coil spring but the hose connection after where it connects to hose assembly 15 is pretty inaccessable. I removed the tire again with pdf in hand and even climing under the goat saw it pretty tight to get to the connections and I certainly have small hands. I can not see doing this as layed out in the TO which I use quite abit and am just trying to wrap my head around it.

The coil spring seamed an unpleasent solution that would certainly open the area up to work on the old lines.....

Thanks

Joe
 

Gamagoat1

Active member
744
43
28
Location
Kiowa, Colorado
What manual are you reffering to Joe?
The brake hose is not connected to the coil spring in any fashion. I changed all my break and air lines with out jacking the vehicle off the ground. It's tight but a 1/4 inch ratchet and 7/16 socket will take those clamps off in a jiffy. And I'm 6ft 8inches 235 lbs.
 
Last edited:

Joe Gamma

New member
125
1
0
Location
Middleboro Mass
What manual are you reffering to Joe?
The brake hose is not connected to the coil spring in any fashion. I changed all my break and air lines with out jacking the vehicle off the ground. It's tight but a 1/4 inch ratchet and 7/16 socket will take those clamps off in a jiffy. And I'm 6ft 8inches 235 lbs.
The line goes around the coil spring but the clamps and line do not touch the coil spring in any way.It just seams that access to the coupling attaching the hose to the carrier is blocked perfectly by it. I feel quite certain I can remove the clamps but what worries me is the Hose connection. It seams where the Hose connects to the line under the trailor is quite cramped. I would have to get two small wrenches up there to loosen it...

I am taking the clamps off tommorrow and I am certain I am using the same manual as you..It does not say to remove the coil spring either but the space seems **** tight with out doing it.

Joe
 

1958 M274

Member
333
4
18
Location
North GA
I too, have replaced all the hoses on my Gama Goat, as well as the hoses on a couple Goats that belong to a friend. Seems like I've had them up on stands with the tires/wheels off for ease of access, but I don't remember changing the hoses being an issue. I never removed a coil spring, that's for sure. It can be done, just be persistent! Good luck!
 

Charlie 6

Member
147
17
18
Location
Claremore/Oklahoma OK
Same here, I removed just the tires, made it a little easier. The hard part was replacing the T lines for the hydraulic and air in between the middle tires. Don't want to do it again.
 

Jericho

Well-known member
1,179
68
48
Location
Landaff NH
No need to remove the spring, the brake line may be clamped in the A arm channel but its just two clamps , pop the tire off and block upthe hud , you will have plenty of room , easy way to bleed it is to run a rachet strap around the brake shoes and then bleed it , with hub off
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks