• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

trailer connector

Nonotagain

New member
1,444
41
0
Location
Parkville, MD
Just unbolt the cable clamp,, remove the screws from the cover plate and twist the plugs to separate the connection.

A little WD-40 or soapy water works for a lubricant for easier connector removal.
 

KsM715

Well-known member
5,149
142
63
Location
St George Ks
Which connector are you asking about? The big rubber end on the cable that is attatched to the trailer? Or the connection on the truck that nonotagain is talking about?

The big rubber end can be taken apart. Loosen the clamp around the end and the rubber part is supposed to slide down the cable, exposing where the wires are soldered to the pins. It might take some force to push the cable thru the rubber part.


Edit: what are you trying to accomplish? If your trying to re-wire for a civy plug or something let us know. There are several different threads covering several different mods to trailer wiring. If we know what your trying to do we can help guide you to one of those threads.
 
Last edited:

bullfrog1234

New member
110
1
0
Location
mississippi
the one on the trailer is more of a pain. I have one i am removing today from a m101 trailer and i am going to remove the clamps and unplug it at the connections. I am going to convert it to 12 volt system that will work with my pick up truck.
 

mistaken1

New member
1,467
6
0
Location
Kansas City, KS
Put the military connector on the trailer with a standard 4-wire lead off the back (supply side).

Then you have 4-wire flat for civilian trucks and the standard military connector for military trucks.

That is why I did mine that way, so I can use the standard trailer plug on my military trucks or the civilian truck (although putting the military connector on the trailer would be far more flexible).
 

Ratch

Member
586
5
18
Location
Chester County, PA
The big rubber end can be taken apart. Loosen the clamp around the end and the rubber part is supposed to slide down the cable, exposing where the wires are soldered to the pins. It might take some force to push the cable thru the rubber part.
Is that how it's supposed to work? :)
I ended up using a hacksaw to cut up the rubber and peel it off. I would've much rather have been able to do it cleanly...
 

3dAngus

Well-known member
4,719
101
63
Location
Perry, Ga.
Is that how it's supposed to work? :)
I ended up using a hacksaw to cut up the rubber and peel it off. I would've much rather have been able to do it cleanly...

Don't feel to bad about it. First time I took off some military lights off a trailer, I thought I had to cut the wires to get it through the hole. Dumb, dumb, dumb.

Just remove the grommet in the hole, pull apart the wires from their socket, and slip the wired though one at a time.

Boy was I dumb. We live and learn.

I guess I just hate reading manuals online, especially when I'm already outside working things.

I did read the manual afterwards.
 

KsM715

Well-known member
5,149
142
63
Location
St George Ks
In case anyone is wondering......

1st, loosen the hose clamp
2nd. take a small screw driver and lightly and carefully pry inbetween the rubber around the pins and the steel collar, NOT between the steel collar and the outer rubber plug. Gently pry it up and out or squirt some lubricant in where your prying to help in removing the inner rubber circle that holds the pins.

Lastly when you re-assemble it, there are 2 aligning grooves in the rubber. You want the groove that is NOT cut all the way from front to back (the groove should be the one you can see between pins A and J) That groove lines up with the groove in the steel collar. NOT the groove that the screwdriver is pointing to. I repeat, you want the groove between pins A and J. Edit: the aligning groove you want is in the red cirlce. Notice it is cut deeper into the rubber but not cut all the way from front to back.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

roady

New member
304
1
0
Location
Greensboro MD
In case anyone is wondering......

1st, loosen the hose clamp
2nd. take a small screw driver and lightly and carefully pry inbetween the rubber around the pins and the steel collar, NOT between the steel collar and the outer rubber plug. Gently pry it up and out or squirt some lubricant in where your prying to help in removing the inner rubber circle that holds the pins.

Lastly when you re-assemble it, there are 2 aligning grooves in the rubber. You want the groove that is NOT cut all the way from front to back (the groove should be the one you can see between pins A and J) That groove lines up with the groove in the steel collar. NOT the groove that the screwdriver is pointing to. I repeat, you want the groove between pins A and J. Edit: the aligning groove you want is in the red cirlce. Notice it is cut deeper into the rubber but not cut all the way from front to back.

Thanks a bunch. That was what I was looking for. The reason I was asking was my new to me M101A1 that I was recovering was already 12 volt and I wanted to take that connector off and put a 7 pin round plug on it. I instead just used the magnetic lights.

Thanks for all the replies..
 

mrfishaholic

New member
59
0
0
Location
Olympia, Washington
unplug the "plug harness" it is all in the aluminum cover 1/2 way down the drivers side A-arm of the trailer, 2 phillips screws on top, 2 on bottom, and you can just unplg them from there..... I just tap into the 4 wires I need from there and run a 5' 4 wire connector to my civy tow vehicle. swap out the 24v bulbs and am off and running....:jumpin:
 
Top