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Tried to DIY caused problem. Assistance Please!

Hawkdawg

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Welp decided she won this round for the night. I tried all the "cranks but won't start" solutions with no success. Going to poke at it a bit more tomorrow and then if nothing, I guess it's off to the shop which is the exact opposite of what I'm trying to accomplish. Would like to handle things like this myself as much as possible and whatever it is I don't think is something too extreme that can't be fixed from the driveway but oh well. Thanks for the help though throughout the day.
 

cpf240

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Hawkdawg, please read the fusible link sticky near the top of the CUCV forum... at the very least one or more are probably burned out. Some time with a voltmeter and the info in the fusible link post will probably show you where the problem is.

If you do take it to a shop, make sure to provide them with the wiring diagrams and perhaps links to the TMs here on this site. Many places have no idea what to do when they see one of these trucks with their "military" wiring.

You might also want to post in the CUCV forum or local to you forum to see if there are SS members in your area that might be able to help you in person.
 

Triple C

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Hawkdawg, here is a simple test to see if your glowplugs are coming on. Take one of the glow plug wires off, attach it to one end of a test light, ground the other end of the test light and turn on your key. The light should come on for the period of time the glow plug controller energizes the glow plug. If you don't get a light then you know it is either the controller or the fusible link that feeds that line. If you get a light, try the other glow plug connections and see if they are all lighting up, an easy test to start with. Good luck.
 

Hawkdawg

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Well woke up this morning and after handling a few tasks, decided to take another wack at the blazer. Now when I turn the key to the on position, there is no power at all. No radio, lights, or anything. Before I went to bed I was still at least getting that little bit. Guess sitting made her mad at me. Looks like I'm going to have to throw in the towel on this one and just have someone else fix what I have messed up. Needless to say the wife is already giving up on my toy fixing plans and is starting to get a little heated.
 

Triple C

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Sounds like the batteries are all the way down for sure. IF you decide to chase the electrical drain I am sure there are lots of folk here willing to help you. Good luck on whatever you do.
 

o1951

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Arr - YA GIVES UP TOO EASY. Check your batteries - probably need charging, then do what previous posters said. Probably have one or more blown fusible links. Only replace with EXACT same thing from a repair kit or cut from a vehicle in scrap yard. If you remove it or put in a heavier one, next time, instead of link blowing, wiring catches fire.
 
With the cables I replaced, I removed them all one at a time and replaced them as soon as I removed in order to ensure I was putting them exactly where they arView attachment 444981e supposed to go. Terrible picture but just wanted to try and show the two batteries almost hooked up.
rear battery neg should go to front positive. You more then likely blow a fusible link. Im sure a electrical guru can reply.
 

Hawkdawg

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timarr, you're right. someone pointed that out to me earlier and I made it proper. Before my mix up and after it was still doing the same crank but no start.
 
In your pictures your have already done the resistor bypass. Follow the red wire that comes off rear battery neg and see if you have 12v at the 12v block that the GP relay is wired to because you may blown that fusible liknk and your GPs aren't even cycling because no power. That could be the smoke by the silver cylinder.
 

Hawkdawg

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Well I didn't want to leave this thread without an ending but since I had no time to work on the m1009 myself since I've had a class for the past month my wife had it towed to the shop. Turns out he says the starter was fried and I was like well you just replaced it a little more than a month ago. I guess he out in a 12v starter and that fried and apparently he put in another 12v. Says he can't find a 24v anywhere so I figure I'm going to have the same problem over and over until I have the proper starter. I'm not going to complain about the issue with the shop on here but I did get ahold of a different shop who deals specifically with these types of trucks and they don't think too highly of those that have hadn't truck. Needless to say, more money spent with more problems but I wanted to end this thread with a solution found. Thanks for te help again everyone.
 

Warthog

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Thanks for the followup.

We have found over the years that most "shops" don't have a clue and end up costing the truck owners a lot of time and $$$$
 

doghead

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In your picture, it looks like the battery cables were impropperly connected. Was that resolved?

You can do a very minor modification to your wiring and safely use a 12v starter.
 

Hawkdawg

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Jacksonville, NC
The diesel shop I got in touch with is also telling me they can't find a 24v starter but the one that got put in is a "gear reduction" starter which he says should try and fix the problem. Can I trust this? Or should I just go ahead and have the whole thing turned into a 12v system which I have heard can have some problems.
 

o1951

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  1. I googled it and come up with pages of them. You are in a warm area, so could use 12v, but why buy all 12v stuff when with the doghead relay mod, 24v is a superior system. You can run both 12 & 24v stuff, and slave with other military vehicles.
  2. 12 volt starters do not last long when regularly fed 24 volts.
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