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Truck ran and then drained the batteries. Help me out here

koltin

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Alright sooo I live in Illinois, I have a 1009, and manual glow plugs. My batteries are a month old and 950CCAs at 0... it was -3 yesterday. I put a heater in the engine bay, and heated the oil pan a little, and it started right up. When I started it I wasn't getting charge at all... I'm pretty sure it wasn't the generators not positive. I shut it off and wait light was on so I threw the glow plug switch again and didn't get the usual click at all... Idk where the click comes fro, probably should cuz i've read through a bunch of threads on here. My guess was that the glowplugs stuck on and drained the batteries.. anyone have anything I'm overlooking. and what would I be changing to get my truck back up? It's my DD and I'm now stuck home.
 

chesapeake

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I am the last person to give advise. I was told after I installed my manual switch, that I might not hear the click. I can let the glow plugs go out and then flip my switch and I hear nothing. The switch light comes on, but that is it. My switch is only for a back up.
 

koltin

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I ran mine straight manual, completely cut out the controller... I've had relay chatter since i bought the truck a couple years ago. so I'm figuring it failed in the on position... but I haven't been able to find a thread where that happened... truthfully I only looked for a couple hours this morning
 

doghead

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Whip out your meter and test the GPs and GP relay.

You haven't said how you wired your GP relay, so we do not know.

Maybe you have a bad battery cable or connection. Again, whip out your meter and see.
 

Skinny

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Great indicator is the voltmeter being in the yellow when the GP's are actually working. Something I always look for proper engagement and making sure they do not stay on.

My system works fine and I do get solenoid chatter which may or may not be normal.
 

koltin

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I did light blue to switch switch to ground... which is how I read it on here. And yeah I always watch my voltmeter when starting. This time it didnt come back out of the yellow like it does when the glow plugs are on and the truck is running
 

Warthog

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How old is your GP relay? They are known to fail in the closed position.

Without testing we are just guessing.
 

koltin

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there was also a vacum line that was dry rotted that came from the back of the block on a "T" one side of the T was blocked, it runs under the manifold and hooked into some connector up front... could that have anything to do with this?
 

ranchhopper

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If there is no click the solenoid is not being activated that's what you hear when its working its a crap shoot if you do hear the click and the volt gauge does not drop its not working either so as was said before if the volt gauge does not drop your GPs are not working. I used a snow plow solenoid on my last 1009s they worked perfect and a lot cheaper than a regular GP solenoid.
 

koltin

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went out to try to work on it and test... truck batteries both completely dead... I put the battery charger on them the day that they died while it was running and took the charger off later that day because they were showing that they were charged...
 

doghead

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Disconnect them, then charge them.

Then diagnose what is causing a draw.

There is a diode between the 24v buss and the negative buss that is known to short(go bad). It can simply be removed(no need for it).
 
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Warthog

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Also a bad diode in the alternator can drain a battery very quickly.

There are hundreds of videos on youtube that explain and cover "parasitic drain"
 
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koltin

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West Chicago Il
Alright so did a parasitic draw test on it. when the wire that goes to the 12V buss was disconnected, I didn't read any draw. I went past there and figured out that when either the double blue wire that connects in or the two orange? Wires that connect to the smaller terminal on the other side were connected I had draw. wen they were both disconnected I didn't have any draw.
 

koltin

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Not completely its called the 12v buss... I saw it labeled as that in a picture.. its the black hexagonal shaped thing that gets the power wire off the negative terminal of the first battery.
 

koltin

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West Chicago Il
Looking at the wiring diagrams, it looks like the orange wires and one of the blue wires go to the left generator... are they talking about the drivers side or passenger side... if you're working on the truck the left one is the passenger side... but if your'e driving the truck its the drivers side. Warthog said it could be a diode in the generator... can I just replace the diode?
 

doghead

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Right and left is always as you drive it (from the drivers position).
 
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