Trying NOT to slay the Draggin'

[LowTech]

Now that I have the engine stripped down to take the heads off, a couple questions.
When you pull the pushrod out "incorrectly", how do you set the lifter back where it belongs?
And, Do you need to take the injectors out? If so, how do you make them come loose?

Thanks all

 

[gimpyrobb]

I used a dowel rod and carefully "guided" them back to their home.

If you look on M35Tom's site http://waterloospecialties.com/, he has good info on head gasket jobs.

When I did mine, I pulled the retaining rings and twisted the injector while pulling.

 

[LowTech]

Thanks Gimpy, knowing that I could twist them helped loads. I didn't want to risk that having never looked at one out of the truck.
Went to Waterloo but didn't find anything on Head Gaskets, am I missing something?

 

[gimpyrobb]

Ehh, I got some head gaskets from him a while ago. In the instructions, he recommends having the machine shop take off a minimum amount from the heads, even if they say they don't need it. I don't remember offhand what it was though, maybe he will see this and chime in.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Two thousandths is what he suggested.

 

[frank8003]

Two thousandths is what he suggested.

What finish is required (Ra) or RMS The head gaskets require a particular finish. It may be stated with the new gaskets paperwork.
With gasket for two heads at $150 and all the actual work involved I am considering the "recommended" .002 removal which might or might not "just" remove the Dykem.
Ra 32 is a dry grinding finish? A bit shiny? I bet this will take a long long time to find in the TM's.
Anybody that knows The specifications and would like to post?

 

[M543A2]

Just from my experience, if heads and block are straight when checked properly with a certified straightedge and found to be true, no machining needed. I take my hat off to the shop who can prove to me they can set up their head facing machine precisely enough to take exactly .002" off all across the surface. A typo on the .002" that should have been .020" would be more believable. We have assembled numerous of these motors with heads and block checked as above, found straight, and had no problems. Save the metal on the head for when you might really need to take some off! We just make sure the head and block surfaces are very clean and not damaged by the cleaning. All of the motors are turned up full but driven with sense.
Regards Martin

 

[gimpyrobb]

Thanks Martin. If memory serves me, don't you prefer the old style head gaskets over the new? May I ask what led to this decision? I know you use yours for work, so I like to hear from "real world" experience.

 

[LowTech]

Decided not to delete as I still have some issues

 

[LowTech]

The engine runs great, climbs well, etc. I do have an overheating issue. Changed out the thermostat and now have the rad in a shop to clean it out and do some repairs. I do have some oil in water(but it's not bubbling like before the HG's) which I think is from having shaped my own gaskets for the oil cooler, going to replace them as soon as I can get some new ones.
Also leaking out of the mains seals. Found the rear and think I have found the front. I am a little confused about whether the seal is the one in the gear cover, or in the block behind. Eriks says that you need to remove the gear cover, TM does not. The number matches up w/ the TM's number.
So, . . . do I need to remove the gear cover? And, is this the same seal? It's not NOS so that makes me think it might be better.
Seal

Just so we're clear, I'm traveling and not at a base camp where I can do major tear-downs.

 

[LowTech]

I know that someone out there knows these things.

And what about those special tools needed for the front seal? What are you guys using?

 

[daytonatrbo]

Just from my experience, if heads and block are straight when checked properly with a certified straightedge and found to be true, no machining needed. I take my hat off to the shop who can prove to me they can set up their head facing machine precisely enough to take exactly .002" off all across the surface. A typo on the .002" that should have been .020" would be more believable. We have assembled numerous of these motors with heads and block checked as above, found straight, and had no problems. Save the metal on the head for when you might really need to take some off! We just make sure the head and block surfaces are very clean and not damaged by the cleaning. All of the motors are turned up full but driven with sense.
Regards Martin

A good machine should be able to do .002 ±.0005 without THAT much issue.

Then again, I work in a world where 'half a thou' is the target dimension.

 

[LowTech]

Figured I would just carry on w/ this thread since I constantly have something getting worked on.
At the moment I've just finished up a airpack and MC rebuild, bled the system and adjusted the shoes. While I was under there I noticed that I have a bad u-joint on the front drive shaft . . . so I removed it and set it aside for now.
Next up will be a HH O-ring replacement but that will have to wait while I fly out east to do some site prep for a container house that we're getting built for my mom.

 

[LowTech]

So here's one, how do you get the horn wire back once its been (accidentally) pulled part way down the tube?