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Trying to dismount a tire

Mos68x

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This has been easier said, or thought, than done. I started off by running a 3/4-16 die down the threads to make it as easy as I could to remove the nuts. After lots of lube oil and pressure washing I got the threads chased and started to work on removing the nuts. This is where any forward progress I was making just stopped dead in its tracks. The only nut that has come off was the one that held the CTIS weight on the rim. I have a 3/4dr socket set from HF that I was using, but the 1-1/8 socket is too short to get it on the nut. Had to borrow the neighbors 1/2dr socket and use my 1/2dr breaker bar but I ended up breaking it. I had really wanted to get this tire apart so that I knew what I needed to fix it come payday. Guess I'll have to wait till I get a 3/4dr deep well socket, and maybe even an impact to get this done.
 

zxmedic

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I am not sure what these are torqued to but on my hemtt rims there at 500 ft lbs i have to use a torque multiplier to loosen them or a quilty truck 1 inch impact.

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simp5782

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Yeah rook. If you don't have an impact gun you are in for a long day. If you feel like you got it and want to overwork yourself. Put it back on the truck and get it secured on the studs and try to break em loose. But unless you have an impact or torque multiplier you are going to have a long painful time getting all those wheels apart. You need to gather tools so you can properly work on the truck. Go spend about $500 on impact, jacks, jackstand or cribbage, heavy truck socket set, good air hose, and other accessories.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?t=143991

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Mos68x

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I would really prefer a manual method to do this, for a couple reasons but mainly because I don't want to have to run the truck just to get this done. I would rather have a torque multiplier like the lug nuts tool that I got from CSM Davis.
 

someoldmoose

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Great idea chasing the threads as far down as you can first. Definitely an old school trick ( why fight rust the whole way off ? ). Half inch drive tools won't cut it, as you found out, and three quarter tools MIGHT get it if the tools are first quality and you have a nice long, strong piece of "force multiplier" ( pipe cheater bar that no one should EVER, EVER use ) but you might just break them too. Know any road service mechanics for heavy trucks or equipment ? I yoosta be lucky and had a brother-in-law that worked on heavy equipment. His toolbox was on a ten ton International 4400 chassis. You are in for a SERIOUS upper body workout to do this ONE wheel by hand.

I would suggest taking it to a truck tire service place and, AT LEAST, have them break all the nuts loose with an impact tool of the proper size. Whatever you choose, make certain that when you reassemble to torque everything to spec. and then recheck that torque after about 100 miles of rolling. Hope ya git 'er done and Happy Motoring !
 
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simp5782

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I would really prefer a manual method to do this, for a couple reasons but mainly because I don't want to have to run the truck just to get this done. I would rather have a torque multiplier like the lug nuts tool that I got from CSM Davis.
Go with the XR Dewalt 1/2" Electric gun or Milwaukee fuel series impact or get a military robogun.

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frank8003

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Kroil is my friend but there is cheaper and as good alternative.
goto
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...-quot-Frozen-quot-Nuts-and-Bolts-Three-Tricks

Also, an observation, but remember it could be wrong.
The die nut tool 3116844 is for making threads. Another part at same store is part 3391583 is for dressing threads. Different tool to use as one does not want to remove metal.

Fasteners torqued on will always take more than that torque to get them off. Rent buy borrow beg for minimum 3/4" air lines and impact tools.
 
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Jbulach

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The biggest issue isn't how tight the nuts are torqued, but that those are some of the worst/best lock-nuts in existence. They make my 1" impact work the whole way off, and slightly gaul the threads. Better get a half dozen, sugar buzzed kids to help on that torque multiplier, as already said "your in for a long day"!


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doghead

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I would really prefer a manual method to do this, for a couple reasons but mainly because I don't want to have to run the truck just to get this done. I would rather have a torque multiplier like the lug nuts tool that I got from CSM Davis.
If you are thinking that you will use the truck air to run a large impact gun, you will be disappointed You need big hoses and an auxiliary tank too.

Big trucks take big tools.
 

Jbulach

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If you are thinking that you will use the truck air to run a large impact gun, you will be disappointed You need big hoses and an auxiliary tank too.

Big trucks take big tools.
My a2 does quite well with a 1 inch impact, throttle bumped up to 1000 RPM, 25' of 1/2" air hose directly connected to the impact and glad hand on the other end (no quick-couplers), and all stock air system. Yes, it does take up more room in the tool box, but that's where it lives, due to the fact that I use it as my portable compressor when working on my other equipment.
 

wreckerman893

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This is why I don't do super single tires.

I have a Tire Dude that will take one off, replace an O-ring and put it back on for 35 bucks. He works on skidders so his guys have it down to an art form.

Check around and see which of your heavy tire dealers does skidders and go get a price check.

Your back will thank you and you have less of a chance of losing your religion over it.

But you may be younger than me and need the exercise. Just my dos centavos for what it's worth.
 

VPed

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I just did this yesterday and can say you absolutely need a 3/4 impact minimum and I had to use my shop air compressor as it goes to 160 psi. HF impact and HF deep impact socket set, not too expensive. The nuts are locking type so the will be hard to turn almost all the way out. I used lots of PB Blaster, motor oil and had wire brushed as much of the threads as I could. I have a truck tire shop two doors down from me but they are not open on weekends. Good luck.
 

WV New Guy

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I went to HD got a DeWalt 18 volt impact and used lots of PB blaster and burned through a bunch of batteries .
I didn't chase the treads some were way to far gone took a couple days but they all came apart I didn't reuse that rim though I just wanted to get the tire off. I must've watched Wes video on breaking down a tire 6 times though.
I tried the manual route on a bunch of projects and still went impact. My wife also insisted on spraying the rust with vinegar and water mix which is a lot cheaper to mx than buy up cans of PB and WD .
My grandfater served in the Seabees in the pacific in WWll he swore by PB blaster!
 

MAdams

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I just got done replacing all my tires and the only way I could get the nuts off was with a O/A torch and a 3/4 impact. I soaked them in PB blaster and used a rosebud on the torch. Without the torch they wouldnt have come off.
 

WV New Guy

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Doghead it was more of a reference to his service and the fact for 22 yrs i watched him build and repair everything and anything. He work as a heavy equipment union operator and had his own business repairing hydrulic jacks and mounting truck tires. But thanks foe the history lesson on PB blaster .
 

doghead

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I wondered if that was your point...

Interesting history...
 
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