Tuning Help

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hartgreen

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So I drove the M715 about a week ago and it cut off on me while I was driving down the road. It would turn over it just wouldnt fire. I assumed it was the coil so I replaced it. Still no start. I then checked the point and made sure it had spark all the way to the plug and it did. The points looked like they were bent a little, unsure why. So then I tried adjusting the timing and I had to turn the distributor all the way clockwise and I finally got it to start. it still sounds as though the timing is off but its running ok now. What would cause the timing to go way off like that? Was wondering if maybe the timing chain may have skipped. Not sure. Any thoughts?
 

NDT

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The timing chain does not drive the distributor. If the cam timing jumped, engine would have low power. I would put a timing light on it and see what you got.
 

NDT

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Haha same question a lot of Ford Triton engine owners ask. The chain has a tensioner which prevents jumping, it likely needs replacing, the front timing cover has to come off.
 

hartgreen

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Also I havent been able to get a timing light to work properly on this motor. I tried using a regular plug wire and it intermittantly gets the light to flash. I adjusted the timing with a vaccum tester.
 

NDT

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Use a plug wire with wire core. Need to have good diagnostics before opening the engine.
 

hartgreen

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Ok 67Beast gets the big gold star. Well almost. It looks like the metal tab snapped off the bottom and its not turning properly. Ill need to order a new shaft for the distributor.

IMG_0249.jpg
 

hartgreen

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I know thats totally crazy. Does anyone have a replacement shaft or the bottom half of the distributor to sell? Or know where I can get one? Im going to try to get the metal tab out using a magnet Im not sure if its still down in there or not. It might be floating around down there in the oil. I wish I had a diagram of the entire shaft all the way down to the oil pump. Is there one on here somewhere?
 

NDT

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The tab is no doubt still stuck in the oil pump shaft. You can pull the oil pump out easy, just make sure the tooth engagement is the same when you put it back in. Mark the tooth to oil pump housing with a paint pen and make sure that is lined back up the same when you stab the oil pump, or your distributor will point all wrong when you time the engine. I doubt you will find a shaft for the distributor, only the entire thing.
 

hartgreen

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Ok so I got these instructions and Im about to Replace my oil pump. I did however note the direction of the previous pump and photographed it as well as the direction of the ignitor. Im wondering if I could just install the same as the other was installed? I found instructions on installing oil pump but As far as figuring out if air is coming out of the #1 cylinder, how would that be done? A compression tester? Instructions are here:

Remove Ignitor then Install Oil Pump per the following;
(1) The oil pump is driven by means
of a helical gear mounted on front of
crankshaft. The ignitor in turn, is driven
by the oil pump by means of a tongue on
end of ignitor shaft which engages a slot
in end of the oil pump shaft. Because the
tongue and the slot are both machined off
center, the two shafts can be meshed in
only one position. Since the position of
ignitor shaft determines the timing of the
engine and is controlled by the oil pump
shaft, the position of the oil pump shaft
must be correct with respect to the crankshaft.

(2) Turn crankshaft until air is forced
from the No. 1 spark plug port indicating
No. 1 piston is on compression stroke.
Continue to rotate crankshaft until pointer
on the timing. chain cover is alined with
“0” timing mark on the vibration damper.
Install oil pump mounting gasket on oil
pump.
NOTE
Always prime oil pump with engine
oil before installation to assure
instant oil pick-up and circulation.
(3) Position oil pump on mounting studs
on the timing chain cover. Do not install
the pump far enough to engage the drive
gear with the worm.
(4) Insert a long screwdriver into ignitor
shaft opening in the opposite side
of chain cover and engage slot in oil pump
shaft.
(5) Turn shaft so the slot is positioned
at 4 and 10 o’clock position with narrow
side of shaft up.
(6) Remove screwdriver and, look down
ignitor shaft hole with a flashlight, observe
position of slot in end of oil pump
shaft to make certain it is properly positioned.
(7) Insert screwdriver into shaft slot
and, while turning shaft counterclockwise
guide oil pump shaft gear into engagement
with the crankshaft gear, press against oil
pump to force it into position.
(8) Remove screwdriver and again observe
position of slot. If installation was
properly made, slot will be at 3 and 9
o’clock position with narrow side of shaft
still on top. If slot is improperly positioned,
remove oil pump and repeat the
operation.
(9) Secure oil pump with three nuts
and lock washers. Torque nuts 12 to 20
lbs-ft.
u. Install Ignitor.
(1) Make sure oil pump shaft has been
positioned as described in (t) above.
(2) Rotate ignitor shaft until tongue,
at end of shaft, engages groove in end of
oil pump shaft.
(3) Install nut and lock washer. Torque
nut 12 to 15 lbs-ft.
 
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