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Turbo LS swap. Swamp Donkey 2 The Saga Begins.

albersondh

Member
77
2
8
Location
MI Detroit
Kicking this idea around for a while and finally decided an LS swap is going to work for me. Why? Already have the motor and trans. I got a LY6 with the 6L90, harness, ECU, and DBW pedal for around $3500. Got a few different Holset turbos on the shelf but thinking Ill do a single HX52 just to keep it simple. The HX52 is a 67mm turbo with a 16cm hot side. This will do 600HP/TQ without breaking a sweat. Down side to the HX52 is that the turbo is designed with a sweet spot well above the boost level I will run but should still spool just fine with the 6.0. Plan is to flip the truck manifolds, hack off the flanges, weld on some 2.5" v-bands, then build a cross over, for front mounted turbo placement. A single 3" DP/exhaust should do just fine with my modest power goals.

Thought about a simple 700R4 but then I feel like towing would be sketchy. 4L80 would work but factor in a fresh trans, TCM, and junk (tach signal, VSS, ect) to make it work and its not much less than a LS swap and still crap 6.2 power. LS motors are known to go well over 200k with proper maintenance and in stock form can take 10psi all day. I consider my LY6 the holy grail of LSX swap motors. It is a steel block with LS3 heads. So no issues with cracking cylinders under boost and these heads are said to flow around 300CFM out of the box!

What about the trans? The 6L90 is a 6 speed auto that is stronger than a 4L80, with a lower first, and taller OD gears, no brainer. Only issue is the trans output is some wonky spline count, mounting flange is common though. Well I found a x-fer case input that will match the spline count and should be a direct replacement in the 208.

Plan for the motor is simple, pull the heads, add studs, re-gap rings for boost, new Felpro MLS gaskets. Probably do some stiffer valve springs as well. Still debating on new bearings and rod bolts....

For fuel Im going to get a poly replacement tank and run an 87 TBI sender with in-tank pump. Ill run a Walbro 460LPH so volume should not be an issue. I may do some return rails (LS stockers are return-less) and boost referenced adjustable FPR. Run some -8 sending and -6 return in some Ethanol compatible line. I suspect MPG's (on gasoline) will be on par with the 6.2 and TH400 but a second tank may work its way in for added range.

Ill try and use the CUCV radiator but need to make space for a front mount intercooler so we will see how space works out.

Debating on tuning. I have experience tuning turbo imports with open source software but never used GM stuff (HP tuner, ect). I feel that tuning forced induction EFI is a transferable skill from platform to platform but there is the obvious software interface learning curve.... So depending on how long this takes and how anxious I get I may outsource tuning.

Suspension is staying OE until the swap is done. I have already sourced some HMMWV 37's, cut out and recentered the 24 bolt wheels. Got some front spring brackets (B52's) from DIY4x4 and shackle flip, disc brackets, ect, from ORD. Going to shoot for 5" and 37's. Plan on throwing the 1028 springs in the back of the build truck (M1008) and use the 1008 rears in the front for lift.


For now the shop is tied up with a 1028 rust pile that Im parting out. Once that is out the way and I have scavenged up all the parts I want as spares work will start. Should be in the next couple weeks.
 

albersondh

Member
77
2
8
Location
MI Detroit
Finished burning in my rock rings tonight and started paint. Came out pretty good. Good idea to grind a bevel or you will end with huge beads hanging off the lip of the rim. Ugly and weak. Also used some clamps to keep things flush while I tacked in place.

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Reentering the H1's. Used my plasma to cut out the centers. Checked and adjusted run out as I welded but still had a worst rim with like .045"....

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Makin popcorn like a boss.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pihoj2bYfLo
 
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Skinny

Well-known member
2,130
486
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
Two things

One, when you are welding those rims, how do you center the insert up for run out? Do you just throw it on an axle and spin it up with a dial indicator? Does it tend to warp while cooling?

Two, you are moving at too slow a pace...I need turbo shots and I need them now!!! You can't just throw a build description out like this and bore us to depth with transmission output shaft photos. I want to see a set of twins poking up out of the engine bay like they mean business...
 

albersondh

Member
77
2
8
Location
MI Detroit
Two things

One, when you are welding those rims, how do you center the insert up for run out? Do you just throw it on an axle and spin it up with a dial indicator? Does it tend to warp while cooling?...
Exactly; dial indicator and set up on a rear hub, spin, knock it around, tack, repeat. Kind of a trade off because as you adjust the axial you inadvertently will screw up your radial..... These "pressed" centers are a very tight fit in the ID of the rim, even with the factory coating removed (bare metal) from the weld area on the rim. You actually have to smack them in with a sledge they are that tight fitting into the rim ID. Makes that solid bang when it gets seated. Fat friend jumping on the center optional.

Two, you are moving at too slow a pace...I need turbo shots and I need them now!!! You can't just throw a build description out like this and bore us to depth with transmission output shaft photos. I want to see a set of twins poking up out of the engine bay like they mean business...

Haha, I debated on throwing this out without any serious progress and no good pics, but I wanted to get some commentary going. Hoping folks can point out good ideas ect while its moving along; albeit slowly. Once the old motor/trans is out things will start flying as I get into my fabro-grove.

My rock ring paint came out like ass so Im blasting those back down for round two. Sprayed with Chassis saver (awesome stuff) then tried to over coat with flat while the Chassis Saver was still tacky. This stuff sets up nearly as hard as powder and is a PIA to scuff for multiple coats. This works for multiple coats of the Saver, but no good for my flat black stuff, must be a chemical incompatibility thing.... Looking for some Coyote Brown powder or paint to set of the rock rings...
 
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albersondh

Member
77
2
8
Location
MI Detroit
Body is done. Bed lined the deck. I have no idea what color this is but I like it wayyyy more than any other CARC color I have seen. Came in an old can so couldn't get the NSN/pn#. Seats go in this weekend. Messed with some SRT8 take outs I got from a 2010 Grand Cherokee. These seats are very nice.:
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But left very little room for adjustment and put the steering wheel in my lap.... Tilt column is in the works but regardless not enough adjustment for me. So I got some new suspension seats. Working out the tracks and mounting now.

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albersondh

Member
77
2
8
Location
MI Detroit
Seats are about done. These are Smittybuilt suspension seats and the center console is from a 2013-14 Dodge. Welded some 2x2x.188 to the floor for mounting the seats. I hated to do this but not a lot of options with this wonky (no flat spots) floor. Looked for a few weeks to find a reasonable price on a jump-seat console. These things go for upwards of $300. Got a deal on this Dodge console because I picked up two. Built a bracket to get the console mounted to the without welding to the floor, and in a position that would allow a third passenger to sit as comfortably as one can in this type of seat... The mounting studs on the console are at different heights front to rear so I had to get creative with the square tube to offset this difference and keep the console at a usable height and forward position. Im building a vertical tube bender so the interior wont be completely finished until that's done and I get get a cage bent up.


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albersondh

Member
77
2
8
Location
MI Detroit
Fuel:

I plan on using a couple OE fuel tanks. Was going to do poly tanks but the ones I have are in good shape. Running an extra in-line pump between the tanks. This way I can work around the need for a lot of additional plumbing to the rails (-8AN/-6AN gets expensive), and I don't think I can find a selector valve with passages large and free flowing enough to support my fuel needs on boost. Plan is to run an 87 EFI sender on the DS and a stock diesel sender on the PS. I can fill the DS from the PS and just watch the gauge, switch to PS (tank selector for fuel gauge only) and monitor the level on the PS. Only concern I have is with the diesel strainer on the PS. Not sure if the strainer is up to Ethanol standards. Im sure the sender metal/tubes is/are coated the same as a gas sender but Im going to dunk the strainer in a jar of E85 and let it sit for a couple weeks.

87 EFI truck sender works in the old tank. Modifying the sender to take a Wallbro 465LPH pump was simple. The 87 sender has a lower flange for holding the OE pump at the bottom. I could have made this work but the pump sat just a bit wonky so I hacked it off and used the pump sleeve to keep the pump tight. I use 1/2" Nylon #6 tube and Oietiker clamps. The Nylon tube is impervious to fuels including straight alcohol. Its also very ridged and helps with holding the pump in place.

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