• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

Turbo time! Installing 6.5 turbo

481
10
18
Location
Charlotte, MI
Got the right fender liner back in. A ittle work with a sawzall and grinder and I was able to use the factory 6.5 downpipe. A couple of the factory indents look like they were made for this frame style.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
are you sure you will not need to relocate the hoses and fuel line. The exhaust looks like it will melt the two plastic lines and with the fuel line that close to the pipe, you may risk heating the line up and causing some vapor lock in the fuel line.
just a thought when first looking at the pick. otherwise the install looks great.
 
481
10
18
Location
Charlotte, MI
That fuel line is no longer being used. The new fuel line runs along the inside of the rail. Vapor lock happens when a mechanical pump is used up front trying to suck fuel that has vaporized. I am using an electric pump back by the tank which pressurizes the line which is one of the best cures for vehicles prone to vapor lock. The plastic drain hose is a few inches away but it could just as easily drop down inside the frame rail as outside the rail.
 
481
10
18
Location
Charlotte, MI
Straight 3" pipe between the frame rail and rocker panel with a 90* up through the RF corner of the bed with the stack painted 383 green and topped with a weather flapper.
 

True Knight

Active member
667
170
43
Location
San Pedro, CA
Thanks. I'm going to have to figure out how to route it to exit somewhere just in front of the rear axle, but I don't really like the pipe outside of the frame. This is the part that will test my creativity. Ha ha. So what did you think of the power difference? Was it well worth it?
 
481
10
18
Location
Charlotte, MI
While your in there before you button it up, you might consider a spin on fuel filter mod- easy modification and you'll probably have to do it sooner or later.
Not planning on doing the mod. The filter is very recent and is a dream to bleed when needed due to the electric fuel pump and pressurized fuel line.
 

Dawookie

New member
28
0
0
Location
Kingwood, TX
I to have just finished doing the turbo install. Question for you. I went with the 3in straight pipe outside the frame and it is louder than it was before the install. I was under the impression that the turbo would eliminate most of the noise. Is it the same for you? Also let me know what temp you pyro shows when you take it for a drive. Mine is showing around 500 @ 65mph seems a little low.
 
481
10
18
Location
Charlotte, MI
I have never ran open exhaust on my truck until now so I can't compare. right now it just dumps behind the rf wheel. not nearly as loud as a gasser with open exhaust. Temp sounds about right. it will raise significantly under hard acceleration near 10 psi. Is your probe in the manifold?

Here's my hillbilly turbo master from the hardware store. Five bucks.
 

Attachments

Last edited:
481
10
18
Location
Charlotte, MI
Yes I have driven it quite a few times. Runs great and the extra power was worth the effort to me. The turbo whine is quite noticeable I haven't driven it long distances until I can spring for a new pair of normal sized batteries so I can latch the hood down completely. Looking forward to that!
 
481
10
18
Location
Charlotte, MI
500 deg does seem a little low, but it probably depends somewhat on the amount of boot the engine is getting at that point. I noticed today that at 60 mph mine runs about 600 degrees at 7 psi boost.
 

Dawookie

New member
28
0
0
Location
Kingwood, TX
One thing to make sure of is that your pyro thermal couple is not bottomed out and touching the manifold this will give a false reading.
Its not made sure before i reinstalled the Turbo.

I'm running 4-5 psi at 60. I think i need to turn my pump up a little is all.
 
481
10
18
Location
Charlotte, MI
2 questions - is there wategate on that turbo, and did you get the rear battery tray to it? Looks like it on post #31
Yes there is a wastegate and it is also shown in post #31. The battery tray is the factory rear tray with the top repositioned farther outboard on the legs for turbo clearance. Good idea in theory but it did not pan out. The inner hood bracing contacted the battery with the hood closed. I finally took the 6TLs out and put a pair of conventional sized 1000 cca batteries on the front tray and got rid of the rear tray. Tried very hard to keep the new military batteries but it was just too big of a pain.
 

RiceBurnerBrian

New member
35
0
0
Location
San Diego/ Lemoore
Fantastic build thread, maybe some day when I get enough time and money (plus the balls) together I will try this upgrade. I've always wanted a turbo vehicle!!

Just a question which might seem vague, how much horsepower did you think you gained from this? Has the tranny or 4x4 seemed to cope well with the added power?

I didn't notice an intercooler, how much harder would an intercooled setup be or would it even be possible?
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks