Turbocharging a HMMWV with BMI's kit

[BMI]

We wish it would fit the CUCV, but due to the purpose designed exhaust manifold, location and configuration of turbo used for the HMMWV kit and downpipe location, the HMMWV Commander turbo kit is not compatible with the CUCV or square body Chevrolet models. Although the 6.2 engine is similar, the under hood characteristics of the HMMWV and CUCV are very different. It would physically hit too many things; such as the frame rail, heater / a/c box and some belt-driven accessories, just to name a few. The
BMI is currently in development of an improved design of the (now discontinued) Banks 6.2 Sidewinder turbo kit that will be a direct bolt on for the CUCV’s and 1983-1992 square body Chevrolet with 6.2 diesel engines along with their specific under-hood space constraints.

 

[metallifan1]

Thank you sweet baby Jesus... I've been tearing my hair out for over a year trying to by a used Banks. Broke down and called Banks today to beg for parts just before finding this post!! Do you have an ETA?

 

[patracy]

I have a question. Since most of these kits were made for NA 6.2 and 6.5 would there be any way to easily modify it to work on CUCVs ie: M1009 and M1008. I have not seen any information on if someone has tried this.


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I don't want to step on any toes. But I simply used a turbo setup from a civilian 6.5 in my M1008. It's a bolt on.

 

[BMI]

No worries,.. I have seen others do that before too, but it does not work with every configuration. If the subject engine has the taller injectors, the factory turbo manifold will not fit without hitting the injectors, thus making it unusable for that type set up. Also if the truck has air-conditioning, the turbo interferes with the location of the AC box. Also the downpipe on the later 6.5 turbo set up is going directly into the frame rail on the CUCV; so that would need addressing as well.
The new kit will be mainly aimed at the 1983 through 1992 square body Chevrolet and GMC chassis, and most of those have air-conditioning, so the later 6.5 manifold set ups will not work on any of those.

 

[MattNC]

Any new updates patracy? Are you still happy with the kit? I was wondering if you ever tried it with your trailer or ever took any videos of the boost/egt while driving around? I’m in a holding pattern getting my 4spd in and then it’s tires and turbo.

thanks

 

[patracy]

Any new updates patracy? Are you still happy with the kit? I was wondering if you ever tried it with your trailer or ever took any videos of the boost/egt while driving around? I’m in a holding pattern getting my 4spd in and then it’s tires and turbo.

thanks

I have driven it several times. The power is a welcome upgrade after losing so much with the slantback/turret/bumpers. I haven't towed with it. Honestly the only trailers I have that would be suitable for the HMMWV are the DRASH trailer and my M1102. But that 1102 has a 2" ball on it and I use it with civy vehicles. Boost just cruising around is about 5-6psi. EGT is about 700-800 usually. Peak I've seen 12psi (I was pushing it as hard as I could) and 1100f. The boost is right there at the edge, but 1100 is fine IMO for EGT.

 

[MattNC]

I have driven it several times. The power is a welcome upgrade after losing so much with the slantback/turret/bumpers. I haven't towed with it. Honestly the only trailers I have that would be suitable for the HMMWV are the DRASH trailer and my M1102. But that 1102 has a 2" ball on it and I use it with civy vehicles. Boost just cruising around is about 5-6psi. EGT is about 700-800 usually. Peak I've seen 12psi (I was pushing it as hard as I could) and 1100f. The boost is right there at the edge, but 1100 is fine IMO for EGT.

Thanks for the update. Very much appreciated.

 

[metallifan1]

I don't want to step on any toes. But I simply used a turbo setup from a civilian 6.5 in my M1008. It's a bolt on.

I am aware of the 6.5td, but I am after a kit that will fit with the factory A/C in my suburban.

 

[BMI]

Sorry for the late reply, but we (BMI) is/are working on a turbo retrofit kit for the 80's 6.2L diesel "Squarebody" Chevy/GMC trucks that will work with the factory A/C (compressor & airbox location).
Since Banks discontinued the Sidewinder kits for those applications, there has been no easy way to do the conversion.
We aim to improve upon the Banks design (better flowing exhaust manifold and incorporate a turbo that has an internal waste-gate) for an even better kit.
We are about 10-12 months out on completion of that kit...

 

[CARC686]

Sorry for the late reply, but we (BMI) is/are working on a turbo retrofit kit for the 80's 6.2L diesel "Squarebody" Chevy/GMC trucks that will work with the factory A/C (compressor & airbox location).
Since Banks discontinued the Sidewinder kits for those applications, there has been no easy way to do the conversion.
We aim to improve upon the Banks design (better flowing exhaust manifold and incorporate a turbo that has an internal waste-gate) for an even better kit.
We are about 10-12 months out on completion of that kit...

What's the news on that squarebody kit? It's been 10 months to the day, but who's counting?

 

[Hutch4]

Hi: looking for info on the turbo kit for the 6.5. Specifically someone that’s had it installed for a while and if they are happy with it. Upon doing research in multiple humvee Facebook groups a lot of guys poo poo the kit. It also seems like the ones that do don’t have any direct experience with them, they just like to badmouth stuff. Any help would be appreciated as I’m about to grab one and have it installed.

 

[MattNC]

I’ve wrote several reviews here plus have videos on some post install driving on YouTube. My user name there is MattNC video.

I have 1.5 years and thousands of miles on my 6.2 since doing the install. I’d do it again no doubt. Wakes the truck up a lot and I’ve had zero issues with overheating or excessive EGTs. The kit is straight forward. In the end it doesn’t look like a stock turbo drivetrain swap such as from a donor turbo humvee, but overall it’s pretty clean install and you can do it yourself if 15-20 hrs of garage time.

The weakest link they admit is the exhaust running under the frame rail. It works fine you just lose ground clearance. Users here have done work arounds. I am pretty sure I’m going to just change mine around soon and just run a down pipe post the turbo and dump it under the truck and not worry about routing to the muffler. The turbo kills a lot of the noise anyway.

In terms of performance it now tows, drives and accelerates much better. Also I would recommend their install kit add on. It helps a lot for the injection pump tune up. That’s the most complex part and where you need to slow down and not rush any steps.

Hope this helps

Hi: looking for info on the turbo kit for the 6.5. Specifically someone that’s had it installed for a while and if they are happy with it. Upon doing research in multiple humvee Facebook groups a lot of guys poo poo the kit. It also seems like the ones that do don’t have any direct experience with them, they just like to badmouth stuff. Any help would be appreciated as I’m about to grab one and have it installed.

 

[Hutch4]

Hi: looking for info on the turbo kit for the 6.5. Specifically someone that’s had it installed for a while and if they are happy with it. Upon doing research in multiple humvee Facebook groups a lot of guys poo poo the kit. It also seems like the ones that do don’t have any direct experience with them, they just like to badmouth stuff. Any help would be appreciated as I’m about to grab one and have it installed.

I’ve wrote several reviews here plus have videos on some post install driving on YouTube. My user name there is MattNC video.

I have 1.5 years and thousands of miles on my 6.2 since doing the install. I’d do it again no doubt. Wakes the truck up a lot and I’ve had zero issues with overheating or excessive EGTs. The kit is straight forward. In the end it doesn’t look like a stock turbo drivetrain swap such as from a donor turbo humvee, but overall it’s pretty clean install and you can do it yourself if 15-20 hrs of garage time.

The weakest link they admit is the exhaust running under the frame rail. It works fine you just lose ground clearance. Users here have done work arounds. I am pretty sure I’m going to just change mine around soon and just run a down pipe post the turbo and dump it under the truck and not worry about routing to the muffler. The turbo kills a lot of the noise anyway.

In terms of performance it now tows, drives and accelerates much better. Also I would recommend their install kit add on. It helps a lot for the injection pump tune up. That’s the most complex part and where you need to slow down and not rush any steps.

Hope this helps

Thanks Matt that helps a bunch. Appreciate it!

 

[JimDu]

Has anybody figured out how to route the exhaust such that no ground clearance is lost? I like the BMI kit, but that’s a deal breaker for me. One of the best things about the HMMWV is 16+ inches of ground clearance. I’ve smashed up exhaust pipes and cats wheeling my Jeep… Mistakes happen while wheelin. Wanna let the underbody and driveline protection do their jobs.
Also, does anybody have detailed pix of an install on an A2 truck?
Many Thanks!

 

[Wakespere]

I put the Commander 6500 on my M1123. Accidentally splurged on a bigger pump and injectors.

Ridiculous difference in horsepower!!!

I have to keep my eye on the boost gauge. Letting it eat will easily pass the max boost of 12 lbs that this engine can withstand.

Still, there’s plenty of pickup to supply another gear well before hitting the boost limit. Can I get an overdrive stacked on my overdrive?

And, while I’m preaching! Aluminum rims with BFG MT 37x13.5 R20 tires make the ride down the highway doing 70 feel like you’re driving a passenger vehicle.

*** it is an absolute must to ensure the wheel hubs are properly maintained before driving a humvee at speed on the highway. There is a nut that holds the wheel spindle in the hub. This can loosen, with the potential for the whole wheel to go awol. This, of course would be catastrophic on a highway doing 70.

 

[Cain2003]

Sorry for the delay folks, but progress is happening. I've had some shipping mishaps with parts for the exhaust. But I'm happy to say it was started up this afternoon and I was able to see a pound or two of boost by power braking it.

I managed to make the 3" downpipe fit along side the engine. It had to be split into two parts though to install. The fitment is tight to say the least. The 3" v band flange had to be milled down on two sides just to get it through! I wrapped the around the tub and transmission in header wrap. The downpipe follows along side the manifold, then 45's into the v band flange. From there it dips down over the frame rail and then follows under the transmission out to the exhaust. I can see why this wouldn't be sold as a kit, as I've got several hours in these two pipes and I bet it'd be impossible to cover every install. Also note, the fuel lines and transmission cooler lines were relocated. (Transmission cooler hose isn't cheap BTW)

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Now for another oddball thing from my truck. My truck didn't have the snorkel setup. I had just removed part of the intake and used a silicone elbow to plumb the snorkel into the stock airbox. The BMI setup just gets mounted to the factory firewall. Unfortunately that won't work for my setup. But I fixed it with my 3D printer. Just a simple flange I made up to sandwich between the firewall and airbox with a shoulder to connect the elbow I used.

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Now for another issue that popped up from the exhaust mod. The coolant tank "drain line". It would have routed behind the turbo, but the downpipe being back there now prevented that. I needed to 90* it out from the tank, but the stock hose/extension wouldn't work without putting a knik in it. I picked up this hose from the parts store and simply cut it down to fit. Worked great. (BTW, it's a 1" hose, so it's kinda hard to find something like this)
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I've got to finish the air lines, splash guard, airbox, and button up all the other little lose ends. Hopefully if time/weather allows I'll be test driving it soon!

has the 3d printed adapter held up? Have you had to replace it? Thanks