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Turbos power question

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Just removed the D turbo from our motor and my buddy asked why I wanted the C instead... other than the sound.. I really dont know. whats the scoop on how much power the C makes vs the D any help and info would be greatful.. kinda in a rush while writting post....

THanks
 

jwaller

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I dunno about a couple more. I read the c will make 8psi of so tops and my D will make 18psi. both with the fuel turned up. I'd not want to switch to a C if I were you. I know the D will stay on my truck. I had a truck with the C and it got really old really fast. if you only drive you truck short distances and not very often I guess it would be fine but I drive mine almost every day for long periods and the C was ear piercing.
 
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Thanks for info on the turbo's

Thanks guys, As for the boost from my C turbo, I run about 10 to 12 psi and it screams down the road.......... LOVE IT !!! the open hwy, wind in your face and the scream of the grean monster.. I'm looking for another C to install inplace of the D. i heard that the D gives more HP, overall, but its slower on take off... vs the C's. i was just wondering if the larger turbo was for more power, or better air pollution. we just wondered if the performance was better overall on the D vs a C turbo...

Thanks again for your insight and helping clear things up..
 

jasonjc

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RE: Thanks for info on the turbo

I think they went with the "D" toget away from the scream.
By the book LD 126HP LDT (C or D) 130HP
 

FreightTrain

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RE: Thanks for info on the turbo

Bigger turbo More lag but more boost on top end.Smaller turbo faster boost but less maximum at top end.That is the idea behind dual turbo setups.The smaller one spools up off the line and then the big one takes over and rams massive amounts of air down the throat of whatever vehicle it is on.Like the new 6.4L Powderchoke from Ford.
 

houdel

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RE: Thanks for info on the turbo

FreightTrain got it right on the "C" vs "D" power/turbo lag issues. My "C" Turbo maxes out at 8 PSI but I am a little conservative on the fuel adjustment. I actually cranked the adjustment down a bit from my previous high setting, gave up a little bit of power to keep my EGT on the cool side to be kinder to my turbo. I have heard others state they get up to 12 PSI from a "C" turbo but that seems to the exception. 8-10 PSI max boost for a "C" turbo and 10-12 PSI max boost for a "C" turbo seems to be more common.

Jwaller - I hope you have a spare turbo for your rig. If you've got the fuel cranked up enough to pull 18 PSI from a "D" turbo, that turbo is living on borrowed time unless you've got some other tricks you haven't told us about! I agree with you on the ear piercing scream from the "C" turbo, it can wear you down pretty quickly. I love the turbo whine, but I don't drive the Deuce daily and seldom make long treks. That's why I started the "Stealth Muffler" thread, to see if there is a practical way to mute the exhaust to a more reasonable level but still enjoy the turbo whine.

BTW, the reason the "C" whines and the "D" doesn't has to do with design of the inlet vanes. As best as I recall, the "C" turbo inlet vanes are smaller and the air flow through the tips of the vanes goes supersonic, which is what causes the whine. The "D" turbo has larger inlet vanes, the air flow stays subsonic, thus no whine.
 

Jones

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RE: Thanks for info on the turbo

My turbo sources say the "C"s were replaced by the "D"s 'cause the "D" put out more air to cut down on emissions, pure and simple. Military's choice had nothing to do with power output.
(Don't remember ever seeing 1/4 mile times listed in any TM's spec. sheets)
Lee's right about the whistle being from supersonic tip speeds; that's one reason why helicopters went from two main rotors to a slower running four and five blade config. Hard to sneak up on anybody when your rotor thump announces your arrival from two or three miles out.
 

jwaller

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Re: RE: Thanks for info on the turbo

houdel said:
Jwaller - I hope you have a spare turbo for your rig. If you've got the fuel cranked up enough to pull 18 PSI from a "D" turbo, that turbo is living on borrowed time unless you've got some other tricks you haven't told us about!
I do have some tricks but it doesnt really matter that much. I just keep my gt to about 1150 pre turbo. and I do have several spare turbos I'm making hybrids out of but thats another story for another time.

the turbine wheel on these turbos can handle 1600 plus degrees so 1150 isnt even getting close to turbo damage.

I should be able to run 25psi or so after I get the methanol injection installed.
 

houdel

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RE: Re: RE: Thanks for info on the turbo

Jwaller - how did you come up with the 1600F EGT? "Conventional Wisdom" generally suggests limiting pre turbo EGT to below 1250F. Are the military turbine wheels made from some special material to withstand 1600F? And how DO you get 18 PSI out of a stock "D" turbo? I can get more boost out of my "C" turbo if I crank the fuel up, but then I enter the "forbidden" +1250F zone, and even then I only pick up 1-2 PSI. How do you do it?

I know you are a performance guru, you must be doing something special. What is it you are not sharing with us? Come on, 'fess up!
 

jimk

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Lee wrote-
Jwaller - I hope you have a spare turbo for your rig. If you've got the fuel cranked up enough to pull 18 PSI from a "D" turbo, that turbo is living on borrowed time unless you've got some other tricks you haven't told us about!
>cut<
BTW, the reason the "C" whines and the "D" doesn't has to do with design of the inlet vanes. As best as I recall, the "C" turbo inlet vanes are smaller and the air flow through the tips of the vanes goes supersonic, which is what causes the whine. The "D" turbo has larger inlet vanes, the air flow stays subsonic, thus no whine
Tired so hope not too many mistakes-
I always thought the pistons were the weak link.The LDS pistons are supposed to be stronger to handle its higher boost. Also increasing boost in engines not so designed can create head gasket problems. The solution in cars is to o-ring the block.( Rods seem least effected by power increases as that puts them in compression where metal is strongest.Their weakness is high RPM. The reversal at TDC puts rods(and bolts) in tension.This stess increases exponently...)

It would seem that a few more psi in the manifold would add little stress to the turbo . More air tends to cool the chamber and lower EGT(assuming charge temp is controlled, no addition fuel is added, and no excess present). But increasing boost increases charge temp and thus chamber temp and EGT. Adding fuel increases temp even more up to a point (that is why there is more power-hot gasses expand and push on the piston harder. Excess fuel burning in the exhaust( where there is no water jacket) send temps EGT thru the roof.

Increasing back pressure increases EGT. Too much can stress a turbo and even blow gasses back into the intake manifold.

At some point the compressor efficiency falls off .It becomes very inefficient heating the air more than compressing it (hot boost).The result is low performance and possible a damaged turbo( from high EGT or surge). Compressor maps(like a topographical map) also have a surge line. If it operates in the area past this line the compressor can become unstable and destroy itself.

Solutions for problems include a diff size turbos (or housing A/R ratio) , Air/Fuel ratio adjustments, aftercooling(desirable above 10-15psi), water/methanol injection.

The Mack I operate runs ~36psi (manifold). Multi stage tractor pull rigs exceed 250psi (manifold). Properly balanced turbos don't seem to mind the press

Its all about controlling EGT,fuel and charge temp. Just monitoring the EGT should protect most [turbo-wise].

As for EGT and turbines the duration is important. Gasoline engines run hotter than diesels. Perhaps the diff is they don't run at max output (and extreme EGT) for hours on end. Here is a good piece on EGT

http://www.bankspower.com/Tech_whyegt.cfm

As for the source of the whine I had always just assumed the turbine. Thanks for clarifying that for me.

I'm running out of time so will leave it to you all to keep me honest(point out my errors).

Here is my D's compressor impeller. Anyone have a pic of the C ?JimK
 

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jwaller

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Re: RE: Re: RE: Thanks for info on the turbo

houdel said:
Jwaller - how did you come up with the 1600F EGT? "Conventional Wisdom" generally suggests limiting pre turbo EGT to below 1250F. Are the military turbine wheels made from some special material to withstand 1600F? And how DO you get 18 PSI out of a stock "D" turbo? I can get more boost out of my "C" turbo if I crank the fuel up, but then I enter the "forbidden" +1250F zone, and even then I only pick up 1-2 PSI. How do you do it?

I know you are a performance guru, you must be doing something special. What is it you are not sharing with us? Come on, 'fess up!
(1600)

this is a number that I received from several turbo shops (percision turbo, turbonetics,...) that build turbos on my customer trucks. I am currently having a hybrid built for the deuce as well.

I have an LDT motor and TD block and stock D turbo. I have turned up the fuel but nothing more. the truck loves it and pulls hard. without an intercooler we are limited in the power we can make until we can figure out a way to cool the intake charge. for this reason I'm going the route of methanol injection. it requires the least modification and can be made fully 28V compliant.

I have been running constant 1150deg egt for over a year without any issues. I do not go any higher with egt bc in my experience with my truck I have not seen any increase in power beyond 1150. in fact you can feel the truck slow down and make less power and pulling long hills you can see the water temps climb. I am going to run my D turbo with meth and it should allow me to run more fuel with less egt and more boost thus creating more power more safely than I am doing now.
 

houdel

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Here is a (not so great) picture of a "C" turbo inlet. Wish I still had one off an engine to take a picture at an angle instead of straight on, the detail of the "D" turbo inlet is much clearer than my pic.

They look petty similar, except if I counted correctly the "C" has six vanes and the "D" has seven and the "D" blades appear to have more angle to them. I wonder if you could put a "C" inlet vane onto a "D" turbo and get the whistle AND more boost?
 

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jimk

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Thanks for the photo Lee.

group,
This (turbos)may be my favorite topic. I am just getting into the deuce turbo upgrade so don't want to come across like a 'know it all'. I'm more interested in power than whine. Here are some of my thoughts.

Swapping parts is easy. The engineering has already been done. Going after more power with same parts surely possible. There is a limit. The LDS uses a bigger turbo. It runs more boost(I assume) and has stronger pistons(so I've been told). Trying get the same power with the smaller LDT turbo may be a challenge.

Looking at just the compressor (back pressure,turbine speed,EGT,piston load, valve spring issues are other important areas) efficiency may poor. This increases charge temp which reduces air density and increases EGT. Compressing air get hotter, even if 100% efficiency were possible (it's not). Additional heating is caused by friction. Turbos -can- be are very efficent ~75% (roots blowers ~50%) but turbo's peak efficientcy is only at certain speeds and pressures. A well balanced system uses a compressors peak efficiency.

The operating range can be plotted on a graph. Below is a few compressor maps for the AiReasearch T04B, from my 91' Turbonetics cat. They might be used on a car w/less than the deuces disp. running twice the rpm's. I plotted some imaginary 'made up' applications. A deuce at 10psi, running at redline,uses about ~30lb/min of air (intersection blue lines). The green line follows a nice path but can't make 30lbs/min. The red line(left) not so good.The red line(right) is ok but engine might be happier with the 60-1 trim (yellow line). It's also heading in the right direction for more boost.

Notes:
The vertical line (left) is the pressure ratio. In a crude sense the value of 2 would be 2x atmospheric, or 16psi. The bottom line is air volume in lbs/min. The chart can be used to find how much an engines needs. The range is important,not just red-line. Prob. best to tune torque peak (1600-2000rpm)

Turbine speed (in rpm's) and the surge line(dotted) data are also on maps.

Another thought:
Maybe a concern? - manifold pressure pushes against the back of the intake valves. High boost works against valve springs. I don't know the deuces valve spec but a 2.5" intake has an area of 7.85 sq. inch (2.5 x pi). At 15psi the force is 117lbs. Old valve springs tend to lose force after 30 years of use. I have seen seat pressures less that 70lbs in old cars.
JimK
 

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ken

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A turbo's #1 job is fuel efficiency. A boost in power output is a side effect. Witch is the feature most people focus on. "clean air" was just a slogan because the trucks didn't smoke as bad.
Bjorn posted some charge air temps in a prevous thread that suprised me. He showed the water cooled intake manifold cooled the charge air temps. I can't rember what the numbers were. I had assumed the charge air would be warmed by this. I figured these engines were intended to cross siberia in any weather and warming the intake air would make this happen in any temp extreme. It seams this helps reduce charge air temps. In a sence we already have intercoolers. They are just water/air instead of air/air. I would think adding a intercooler would be a power draw because of friction. This would reduce boost at the intake valves.
A larger turbo will produce more lag. But will move more CFM's. If the engine can't injest this much air boost will go up. Has anybody that has swapped turbos noted any MPG differences. I would think that the military would have approved a turbo upgrade if they thought they would see a difference in fuel costs. I wouldn't think they would have cared about power output.
My M35 has a "C" turbo. I have a muffler so the wistle is cut down alot. I'm looking for a LDS turbo with the wastegate for it. Mabye i can cut my fuel costs a bit.
 

OPCOM

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what is the deal/reason for the double vanes on the impellers? also, why do some blades have them and some not (as in the D turbo image)?
 

JasonS

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Jim, The pressure on the back of the valve is a legitimate concern but the area of a circle (valve head) is actually pi*Radius^2. The circumference is pi*diameter. You should also subtract the area of the valve stem (pi*valve stem radius^2) when calculating the force on the valve.
 
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