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U Joint again?

3dubs

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Houston, TX
Last time I learned to use a butane torch to heat it up until the teflon or whatever squirts out. But now I have to replace the U joint by the trans. I got the old one out fine but now I can't get the new one in. I have part number 534G. But when I get it on the drive shaft it is real tight and does not move freely. When I try to put it on the slip yoke I can't get both caps on. I thought a bearing came loose and was wedged in so I bought another U joint and made sure grease was holding them. But I still can't get the last clip on the U joint. I just bent the handle on my clamp but it is not going in enough to put the clip on. I only threw one tool because my little girl was watching. Has any body else had this problem? Is there another part? I checked the TM and got part #7806140 then put it in LRC and got the 534G part number. It is very close but just not close enough.

HELP!!!!! Before I break something.
 
Is the slip yoke clean/free of corrosion? Is it possible that your yoke might be slightly bent? I just put a "Precision U-Joint" P/N 534G from O'Reilly Auto parts on my 1009 last weekend. It was a little tight, but nothing like what you're describing. Can you post a picture of how close (or not close) it is to fitting onto the slip yoke?
 
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3dubs

New member
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Location
Houston, TX
it is so close I have to put the clip up to see if it will fit. A thinner clip would fit. I left the clamp on to see if it would move slowly. It is that close to fitting. I wonder if it is the rubber bushing thing?
 

3dubs

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Location
Houston, TX
I am using a big C clamp. But it is so tight the joint is not moving so I is not the opening. It is the clip to clip measurement. So it is either the U-joint is too long or the rubber needs to compress.
 

camogriz

Member
142
0
16
Location
Carmel, NY
I replaced a u-joint in my M1009 that was tight as you describe. It was a bear but I kept trying and finally was able to force the clip on. I was concerned as well because the new joint seemed to be binding. I put it in and 1,000 miles later it loosened up and seems fine. I know it's loose now because I had to change the transmission two weeks ago, and driveshaft removal is necessary to complete that job.
 

3dubs

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Location
Houston, TX
See if this helps. Sometimes you need to spread your yoke a bit. You can take a brass drift and hammer and spread it a little.
Thanks to every one I figured It out. I did some messing around and finally I unclipped the side I had clipped. The yoke slipped back and forth so I could clip either side but not both. So now I have to figure out what a drift is or grind one side. But grinding may make it unbalanced. Thanks for the input and maybe the next guy will find this thread.
 

Fleg

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Location
Rio Rancho, NM
I apologize if you've already checked this but are you 100% certain that one of the needle bearings hasn't fallen into the cap and is keeping you from pressing it all the way on? I've had almost the exact same problem as you and sure enough, one of the needle bearings slid into the bottom of the cap and kept it from seating all the way.
 

rnd-motorsports

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Evart,Michigan
Only two things it could be from what I have read a needle has fallen into cap but it sounds like the ears of the yoke has got bent and you need to spread them just a bit!
 

3dubs

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Location
Houston, TX
Yes I checked the needle bearings. That was the first thing I thought was wrong. I tried heating the yoke and putting the cap on ice. But when there is no clip on either cap either one of them can slide in. I did notice one of the caps standing off and found two needle bearings had fallen but that did not make it fit. I measured the distance and it was short of the clip to clip measurement. I forgot what it was but it was close but not enough. I could go with thinner clips. I do not want to crack the yoke either. I will go to a drive shaft shop tomorrow and see what they think. Luckily I sat back in a chair to enjoy the shade and cool breeze. I was about to go put it on a press but decided to micrometer it. I just do not like any of my options so I will get help.

Has someone expanded the gap in the yoke? If so how did you do it and how long has it lasted?
 

rnd-motorsports

New member
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Location
Evart,Michigan
some times when you press or drive the caps out you unknowingly can bend or spring the ears a small amount just like your saying. the joint fit in the other half of the shaft so i bet you will just need to spring the yolk ears out. if your not sure then like you said have somebody else look at it GOOD LUCK let us know what they say [thumbzup]
 

jmsneorrcom

New member
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Location
akron, ohio
I used a C clamp on mine and it went right in, only problem I had (bonehead) was I had it in upside down. how a round object can be upside down is one of the mysterys of life
 

3dubs

New member
424
2
0
Location
Houston, TX
I got it on. I will skip all the things I tried. But I was thinking about how I could spread it with the u-joint in so I would know How wide to go. I the caliper was so close I could not even read a number difference. So I got a pair of channel locks. Put the lower jaw that sticks out a little more on the cap and the upper jaw on the inside of the lobe. So that it would push the cap in and pull the lobe out. The clip went right on! The shop said they could not pull it out. They said I had to buy a new yoke for $95. But all I needed was the right tool and the Walmart channel locks got the job done.:beer:
 
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