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U-Joints

Bocephus

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Iowa
Is there a u-joint that is sold at the big box auto parts stores that will fix the Humvee? If so, are all the u-joints on the driveshafts the same size?

For an oil change, will the standard 6.2 GM diesel filters from the civilian truck series fit?


Thanks,
Bryan
 

ari

New member
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Location
dacula Ga
I use Bosch premium oil filter from auto zone in the oil filter book there's a 1993 hummer h1 listed. U joints are available too
 

Wire Fox

Well-known member
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Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
Depends on which drive shafts you have. If you have an A1 or A2 configuration, you get to revel in the luxury of all the U-Joints being the same on the front and rear propeller shaft. If you have an original/A0, you'll need to look up your parts in the -24P vol 1 parts manual to be sure of correct fitment.

For those A1/A2 u-joints, you're dealing with a Dana/Spicer 1330-series axle, so you can buy off-the-shelf U-Joints with that information at any parts store. The OEM part AM General would have installed is a Federal Mogul 5-213X. You can buy them reasonably priced from Erik's (see link: http://eriksmilitarysurplus.com/hmreu575.html) or if you're feeling more adventurous, there's a certain guy in Ohio selling them on eBay for a whopping $2.75 each + shipping (I bought 10 at that price...). I say adventurous, because the guy's clearly crazy. He's selling clothing, U-Joints, and paper envelopes full of "fresh, Ohio farm air." Sorry, but per forum rules, I can't post that link to the eBay listing.
 

Bocephus

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Appreciate the detailed info Wire Fox! Stupid question.......How do I tell if I have an A0/A1/A2 configuration?
 

Wire Fox

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Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
Appreciate the detailed info Wire Fox! Stupid question.......How do I tell if I have an A0/A1/A2 configuration?
The easy start....what does your data plate say? M998, M998A1, or is it something like an M1123 or other, odd configuration? If it's just M998, you may still be in an A1 configuration. Depends if your transfer case is an NP 218 or an NP 242...the little round metal plate on the rear-side should say that.

I also decided to be nice by going above and beyond, so I dug up the extra information for the original 218 configuration...the rear drive shaft would still use the same 1330 series / 5-213X u-joints. The front; however, would make use of 1-0153 u-joints (Erik's: http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/hmfru571.html), or sub-$5 on eBay.

EDIT: For all the other wrench-turners around here, I have just a tiny bit of doubt that my information is 100% correct. I'm only about 98% confident. If anyone thinks that there's any error in how to determine which u-joints he currently has, please speak up!
 
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Bocephus

New member
104
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Location
Iowa
Really appreciate it. Data plate says M998. I will look tonight on the t-case to see what that plate says, and should be able to run with your info from there. Its the front driveshaft I'm needing it for, so I will make sure to get the correct one. Thanks again.
 

juanprado

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Metairie/La (N'awlins)
those are industry wide Dana/spicer/federal Mogul/ precision and many others ujoint #'s that any descent parts guy can cross reference at your corner parts selling outfit.

If you would like spicer, Napa carries them
 

NormB

Well-known member
1,221
77
48
Location
Cloverly,MD
Just went through this a month or so ago.

Ordered (with help from online parts seller) one and it was TOO LONG.

There are TWO different u-joints, the apparent difference being the length from cap to cap. 3.219" was right for mine (caps are 1.062" diameter)

Wound up using this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CKN762/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thing to do is pound one out and MEASURE to be sure. If it's cleaned, it might even say SPICER on it (mine did).

Reinstalling is a breeze with a vise and block of wood and a couple of thin washers to get the cap low enough to install the retaining ring.
 

Wire Fox

Well-known member
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158
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Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
The official removal procedure is to take a large vice, a 1 1/8 socket, and an 11/16 socket. Position the sockets and yoke/u-joint in the vice so that the smaller socket pushes into the u-joint while the larger one supports the yoke and catches the outgoing bearing cap and u-joint. In my experience, I didn't have a vice large enough to hold everything and it was too hard to turn, so I used our shop press and eased it right out.
 

Dmljohnson

Member
44
8
8
Location
Miami
66843DC2-FCF0-4ED5-AC89-C64EBD4F3FBA.jpgThis one works from napa, I used this before, I broke mines off and it hit my transfer case and bust a hole in it, boy what a mission,
 

Thumper580

Active member
269
209
43
Location
Virginia
Not to highjack but.... My 1986 went through the Reset Program in 2006. It has a 242 transfer case. Does that mean it's at least an A1? I replaced the rear driveshaft and the numbers on it indicated the driveshaft was a heavy duty version. I had a loose clunky U joint, but a got a great price on a NOS rear driveshaft so just swamped it out. I was also a bit confused on the correct U joint question. Thanks
 

jkcondrey

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
317
140
43
Location
Rutherfordton, NC
Not to highjack but.... My 1986 went through the Reset Program in 2006. It has a 242 transfer case. Does that mean it's at least an A1? I replaced the rear driveshaft and the numbers on it indicated the driveshaft was a heavy duty version. I had a loose clunky U joint, but a got a great price on a NOS rear driveshaft so just swamped it out. I was also a bit confused on the correct U joint question. Thanks
I just replaced my joint in the front driveshaft at the transfer case-242- and used a 1330 spicer. The rear driveshaft joint was a 1350 spicer.
 

dhaumann69166

Active member
234
77
28
Location
Hyannis, Nebraska
Just did my front drive line on my ‘87 today and they take 1-0153 Neapco. 3.25” outside edge to outside edge of caps both directions. Got the wrong one the first time and it was 3.25x3.75.
 
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