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underdash starter relay.

doghead

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Well my luck is holding.
After yet another burned up.
I stopped by the parts store and picked up a ford type solenoid.
Went out today and wired it up (same as above) and ...................... nothing:roll:
Tested everything:
24 volt power - check
12 volt signal from ignition switch - check
Ground - check
Power wire out to starter still intact - Check
Try another solenoid - still nothing
Swap wires to every possible combination - still nothing
Dig in box for directions. looks as it should - still nothing
So i ran two extra wires up thru the radio hole (power in and power out) tied them off. Marked the hot and put a wire nut on it.
put it back together.
Pull the cap; spark the wires and .............. :grin: Varoom, clatter clatter, belching
smoke; ready to go.
I got it working.............................................
Just not the finished product i had invisioned.




What are you saying you did? Are you just touching the purple to the red/white, to start it now?

Your "ford" relay, was it grounded? Does the relay require a coil ground, or is it chassis grounded? The 2 little studs on most "ford" relays are little stud 1-relay coil, and little stud 2-ignition(direct).

The relay I used has an isolated ground, and is not chassis grounded. That is why I used it and not a "ford" relay. There are some chassis grounded "ford" style relays, but they are not commonly in stock.
 
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underdog

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Same as jumping across a solenoid. Turn key on then touch red and purple.
Good point on the ground.
I could have sworn i tried all ground Possibilities.
Will try some more later and see what happens.
 

Crash_AF

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If it is a 'standard' Ford relay like is on almost every Ford vehicle from the 60s/70s, that relay is grounded through the mount. You need to put the purple/white 12V source wire to the "S" terminal on the relay and connect the black ground wire to the mounting ear on the relay. The "I" terminal only provides direct 12V to the coil during cranking and has NOTHING to do with the coil energizing.

In the attached pic, the left small stud SHOULD be the "S" terminal.

Later,
Joe
 

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underdog

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I double checked - Black chassis ground wire to mount - Check
No start.
Oh well. Maybe buy the isolated ground type and try again.
But it works for now :roll:good enough for my old mule.
 

doghead

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Underdog, if you originally hooked up the black wire to the "I" terminal and tried to start it, you probably burned something out in the ignition switch circuit. (hopefully just the black wire to ground) I would test your black wire for continuity to ground.

You did not say if you had the relay mounted to a good ground.

With the "ford" relay, it(black) needs to be connected to the mount(chassis) of the relay or left unhooked if the relay is mounted to a good ground.
 
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underdog

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I finally got this modification to work.
Blazer-2.jpg

Had to purchase another part to try.
94-97 Super Duty Diesel Glow Plug Relay
(Allied Electronics) 576-1078 (Stancor Heavy Duty 586-902)
(Autozone) MR99
(Ford) F7TZ-12B533-CA (94-96 with pigtail)
(Ford) F81Z-12B533-AC? (96-early 2000 w/o pigtail)
(International) 1807230C2
(International) 1826634C94
(Napa) GPR-109

Seems to be cranking faster now.
Will have to get used to the pop of the solenoid.
Anyway thanks for the tips and help. I hope this repair will last.
 
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ken

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That's it. I just lost another relay. And it cooked the solinod on the starter. I'm going with the Ford relay this weekend. I'm going to mount it under the hood near the batteries. I love GM but this was a bad idea.
 

doghead

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Need more info, 84. What part number is it?
 

84cucv1ton

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part number ss591 from standard. i was getting the cheap relays from auto zone. they seem like junk. some work some dont. these relays are a bit more ($32) but i have not had one fail or anything yet. thanks
 

doghead

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I could only find one picture of that brand of relay with that number. It was too small to see and be 100% sure but, I believe it is the same as the Ford type solenoid. It looked to have the small terminals labeled S and I. If that is so, then you need to wire it like this guy did in the link below. (do not use the I terminal!)

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/34085-another-start-relay-option.html
 

doghead

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Yeah, buy and install the one I posted in this thread, or the one that the other thread used and wire it appropriately!

Maybe ask the guy you bought it from, for it's specs? Why did you pick that one?

You basically have 3 choices in relays that look like that, you need to be certain how it functions, in order to wire it correctly.
 
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doghead

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Post 44 and post 52 have the info you need for the ford relay .

Do not connect anything to the " I " terminal!
 

motormayhem

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Well while out on a trail I hit a bump and SQUUUUUUEEEEEKKKKKKKKK the stater engaged while the engine was running I was able to pull the relay after slamming on the braked and shutting the motor down it probably went for about 8 sec at most. I after pulling the realy and collecting my breath I plugged it back in for a sec to start the truck and it didn't seem any different. I proceded to start the truck a few times after that and didn't hear any out of the ordinary sounds. When I got home I disconnected the primary to the injector and plugged the realy in and it cranked over for about 4 sec and I couldn't hear any skipps on the flywheel. I did that like 5 times and no skipps. But twice in the last 3 weeks (before the relay went) when I went to crank it it just made a squeel sound and after an attemp or two it went no problems. Do you think there is damage or could the relay going out have caused that. Like I said when I cranked it with the injector primary disconnected it didn't hit any spots where it went crank crank vrooom crank. I will be doing dogheads mod tomorrow.
 
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