Universal Joint replacement M1009

[86M10086.2L]

So after my truck developed a slight vibration and annoying squeak. I prepared myself for the inevitable failing universal joint(s). So I got my truck up on the lift, pulled the drive shaft and quickly discovered that the transfer case yoke joint was bad. Probably 1/16" of play when twisted in opposition to the drive shaft. Did some research and measured my old joints and found that not only were they the original with those annoying plastic retaining rings. But also 1 1/8" bearing caps and not the more commonly stocked 1 1/16" joints used in many civilian applications. Picked up a set of new Moog/Precision part# 534G replacement u-joints with the clips that go on the inside (not on the top). Broke out the cutting torches because no amount of hammering or pressure would budge them. Cut them out, knocked out the caps and removed the remnants of the plastic retaing rings. I chose to use a table mounted vise to press the new joints in. A C clamp, hydraulic press or a steady hammer will do it also. Not a particularly interesting or difficult job but thought I'd share anyway.

 

[Warthog]

Thanks for the write up and the part numbers

 

[Matt Kahle]

Cool sounds like you got it right. I always love to use a bench vise for pressing universal joints. One thing that bothers me is how did it get that much play in those parts?

 

[86M10086.2L]

It sounds a lot worse than it was. The joints get dry, and they wear quick. Don't be fooled by greasable joints. In my expierience no matter where the zerk fitting is placed. One or more posts will still never get grease. No matter how much you put in.

 

[Matt Kahle]

I bet the new set of moog un-joints will help out big time. I'm a fan of moog parts the only thing I don't like about them is there grease joints.

 

[86M10086.2L]

If I still had my M1008 I would have more than likely went with some non-greasable joints. Being as I neither plan on hard core rock crawling, doing smokey burnouts or towing a Japanese Super tanker with the M1009. I'll take the American made greasable joint as a more than satisfactory replacement.

 

[Skinny]

I've always stuck with OEM Spicer greasable joints because they last the longest and are typically strongest for not much more money but could never source them locally except for Robins or Federated parts store. Even then they are never in stock.