unknown front axle spindle nut

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joshuak

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What does that piece actually do? Does anyone know?
Good question, I can offer one theory shared by two different posters on different sites.

"This is the pre-load adjusting collar. The point is to make sure it grips the top ball joint as hard as the bottom ball joint gets gripped." Post #2 here.

"By "Pre-loading" the upper ball-joint, what you are really doing is adjusting the distance between the upper and lower ball-joint-studs. A distance that can and will change slightly with normal production tolerances. Add years of use, "curb-checks", Non-stock parts, and so on. It's easy to see how that distance might changed over-time." Post #7 here.

It makes sense and I can't argue with those explanations, although somebody probably can, because you are supposed to torque the lower bj stud nut first, then torque the adjustment collar and finally torque the upper bj stud nut. As far as I understand.

YMMV
 

cucvrus

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Like the idea. And it makes sense. But I have never done it that way and never had any issues. I do like your explanation. I did the torque and have had no issues. I ran these trucks a lot of miles and never knew of any adverse effects. I run Goodyear 31 10.5 X 15 MTR Kevlar tires and they wear evenly. I do like the reasoning. Thank you. I will try it on a scrap axle That I have.
 
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sweetk30

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I always left them alone .

but check for cracks . seen some broken in there .

that is to set correct preload on turning force of the knuckle on the ball joints .

you can set caster/camber with shim behine spindle to knuckle face .

but I wouldn't do this cause if bushings / parts are ood you should not need to change this . unless your lifted or run heavy loads all the time to change the frame angle and thus mess with those angles.

I have seen offset upper bushings but there real rear and can lead to little or to much preload on the ball joint . and as said have to remove the upper ball joint nut to turn/set them = suck when on machine .


and on late night or weekend good luck finding that ball joint socket tool in stock most any place.
 
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joshuak

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And that price in the link is ridiculous at almost $100...
Agreed, that was for illustration purposes not a suggestion to buy there, unless you want too... :cookoo:

This tool at least (not like the axle nut sockets) seems to be pretty standard and available.
Funny, the 6 prong spanner socket is part of the loan a tool program over here on the west coast, unlike the 4 prong socket.
 

The Baron

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I know this is too late, but I figured I'll post it for those who are wondering the same thing. It blows my mind how this question never seems to get answered. The '84 blazers had that 6 lug spindle nut (the socket has 5 teeth actually). The socket you need is a Kent Moore J34616. You can pick one up on Ebay for 10 or so dollars. Don't forget to pull out the lock before trying to wrench it off.
 

Dsilverline

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Glad you just replied - It reminded me of something. As someone mentioned before I got the Kent Moore tool off of ebay and that did the trick. I wanted to make things more standard though and got the Dana version of the spindle nut and installed that. Agreed with whoever mentioned it before the old style Kent Moore nut seems to be a better design, the tool holds in there better, the Dana tool wants to slip out. I also did the ball joints, tie rod end and wheel bearings while I was at it. I got the ball joint adjusting sleeve tool (tried to make one out of a socket but that didn't work well, my stuff was all original and seized pretty good ) and replaced that- torqued it to the proper amount but the socket stripped the adjuster sleeve teeth at the last second!!! Tried to remove to stick a fresh one in there but then the teeth stripped the other way too!!!! Uggh, thank god it's in the proper amount and everything dialed but I have no freakin idea how I'll ever get that out when I need to replace the upper BJ again. The adjuster sleeve goes straight into the axle tube ears so seems not a great situation.
 

joshuak

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TM-20. Section 8.4, Rotor and wheel bearing maintenance, states that there are two different hub nut wrenches required depending on the year of your '09...
Not mentioned in the TM, for the '84 M1009 model, is the special tool used to remove the key, PS magazine shows how to make one. Also, as the magazine agrees with sweetk30's suggestion earlier in the thread of replacing the lock nuts with the 85-87 style.

April95.jpg June90.3.jpg
 

cucvrus

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Imagine that. The 1984 one is the one I always prefer. It is easier then lining up the pin to nut. And I use a screw to get the block out. It is basically the same as a CUCV pickup with the 14 bolt cooperate axle. Easy as that. Have a Great Day.
 

JonM1009

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I see this thread is a bit old so hopefully someone will be able to still help me out. I have a similar problem in my '85 M1009. The front axle was replaced a few years ago with an M1009 axle of an unknown year. It's got an even weirder set of dual spindle nuts. I tried the 6 prong socket that Oreilly's has and it's too big for the first nut with square holes, and I can't find a small socket to get in there. Any ideas?

Spindle Nut.jpg
 

frank8003

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I see this thread is a bit old so hopefully someone will be able to still help me out. I have a similar problem in my '85 M1009. The front axle was replaced a few years ago with an M1009 axle of an unknown year. It's got an even weirder set of dual spindle nuts. I tried the 6 prong socket that Oreilly's has and it's too big for the first nut with square holes, and I can't find a small socket to get in there. Any ideas?

View attachment 782919
Is this what you need? This is from post #8 in this thread.

https://www.autozone.com/ratchets-sockets-and-wrenches/axle-spindle-nut-socket/mile-marker-6-prong-spindle-nut-socket/235904_0_0
 

cucvrus

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From what I see that is all one nut. There should be a snap ring in front. Can't see from the picture. I would remove the snap ring. Now in the slot of the spindle there should be a lock block. Using a punch of socket against the 6 ears of the nut. I would lightly tap the nut counter clockwise. Lightly. Remove the lock block with a pliers or screw. I seen them with a hollow/nylon center. Once removed you can unscrew the big nut. It is all one piece. Remember I am looking at a picture and trying to help from afar. If it were here I would have it off in less time than it took to explain. Good Luck. Report Back. Be Safe.
 
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